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Selecting a mild lift (TRD Baja TX Pro + Icon AAL)

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by crashnburn80, Aug 3, 2015.

  1. Oct 18, 2015 at 8:19 PM
    #81
    crashnburn80

    crashnburn80 [OP] Vehicle Design Engineer

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    The Dakars lift pretty high, 2.75" or 2.25" with a leaf removed though many report getting more. If you pair this with the stock Bajas, you will lift the rear higher than the front, increasing the rake even higher than stock.

    Toytec BOSS and a few others make leaf packs rated at 2" without removing leafs, which would pair closer to the front Bajas.
     
  2. Oct 18, 2015 at 8:20 PM
    #82
    TXTaco13

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    What about the Dakar height with a shell?
     
  3. Oct 18, 2015 at 8:23 PM
    #83
    crashnburn80

    crashnburn80 [OP] Vehicle Design Engineer

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    Totally different story. I'd go with the Dakars for sure for the extra weight. If the lift is to much you can remove a leaf, I'd suspect leaf removed would net you 1.75"-ish with a shell.
     
  4. Oct 18, 2015 at 8:24 PM
    #84
    TXTaco13

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    I was thinking keeping all the leafs in, and have around 2-2.25"?
     
  5. Oct 18, 2015 at 8:48 PM
    #85
    crashnburn80

    crashnburn80 [OP] Vehicle Design Engineer

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    I'd suspect at least 2.25" with the shell. You can always remove a leaf later, but if you cut the center pin for the removed leaf you likely cannot add a leaf later without a new pin. If try it with the leaf in, then remove if necissary.
     
  6. Oct 19, 2015 at 1:28 PM
    #86
    EDDO

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                                                                                        CBI Moab 2.0 front bumper CBI Trail Rider 2.0 rear bumper B.A.M.F. sliders Exhaust crossover relocate Icon 2.5 front and 2.0 rear Camburg balljoint UCAs Welded stock alignment tabs Dakar Leaf Springs and 14" x 650 lb. coils Wheeler's SuperBumps (front) Icon Hydro Bumps with U-bolt flip Relentless Fab tailgate plate Total Chaos Bed Stiffeners 265/75R16 BFG T/A KO2 on black TRD faux beadlocks PTR18-35090 Custom Double Cardan Driveshaft from South Bay Driveline 2.5" dia .134" wall front, 3.0" dia .125" wall rear. Spicer 1310 joints, Spicer CB
    In a shining example of a company standing behind their product, this from Icon in response to my report of the clamp failure:
    :bowdown:
     
    Justinlhc, BDub and deeezy like this.
  7. Oct 20, 2015 at 5:32 PM
    #87
    AZeyeTIE

    AZeyeTIE Uh huh

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    Just got the 3 leaf AAL installed today. Left the overload in. I do like the ride. No heavy load in the bed yet either but I am loving the slight rake that I didn't have before. Time for a smidge more lift up front and then some bigger tars when these BFG's wear out. Completely stoked with my Tacoma!!!
     
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  8. Oct 23, 2015 at 9:19 AM
    #88
    EDDO

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    @crashnburn80
    So, Icon sent me out one replacement AAL. I am picking up a set of 22,000 mile 2014 3+1 springs from a local member tomorrow. I was very happy with the way my 2+1 with AAL (no factory overload) performed before running into trouble, so this should give me a reasonably fresh starting point. A little concerned about the difference using one new and one used AAL on the same axle, but that is the plan. Also thinking about leaving the factory overloads in this time...
    Any thoughts or recommendations?
     
  9. Oct 23, 2015 at 9:29 AM
    #89
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    id be inclined to put the new AAL on the driver side.... idealy have icon send you another AAL so you have two new ones.

    Run the overloads!
     
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  10. Oct 23, 2015 at 11:04 AM
    #90
    EDDO

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    Driver side makes sense for the fresh AAL, going to try it with the overloads this time around. Trying to get out of this as cheaply as possible at the moment, so buying the matching new AAL isn't going to happen. BTW - until this happened, I hadn't paid attention to just how much the rear of my truck had sagged compared to the measurements I took right after installation. OR springs are not a good starting point for this in my experience.
     
  11. Oct 23, 2015 at 11:08 AM
    #91
    crashnburn80

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    Your going to have a better spring with the 3+1 than you did with the 2+1, so if you liked it the way it was before I'd say leave them out unless you wanted the extra lift.

    However you could always leave them in and later remove them if you don't like the ride as much. Because you need to cut the center pin down, it is easier to run them in, remove them and cut the center pin down further than it is to run them without and cut the pin and now it is too short to put back in without replacing the pin. Not that replacing the pin is a big deal. Speaking of, with the 2+1 depending on how short you cut it, it may need to be replaced to run the 3+1 on the side without the new AAL.

    I do agree with running the new leaf on the driver side, that is a good idea to counter the lean.
     
  12. Oct 23, 2015 at 11:22 AM
    #92
    EDDO

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    Have a new set of pins and new u-bolts on hand. Thanks for all the advice. Been a while since I spent any quality time on the floor in my garage.
     
  13. Oct 23, 2015 at 11:35 AM
    #93
    crashnburn80

    crashnburn80 [OP] Vehicle Design Engineer

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    I mentioned it before but consider hitting between the leaf packs with fluid film while you have them spread to prevent the annoying squeak many report. I did, don't know for sure if it helps but certainly can't hurt anything and prevents corrosion.
     
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  14. Oct 25, 2015 at 4:00 PM
    #94
    EDDO

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    All back together. The only glitch is replacement 6.75" u-bolts are about 1/4" short for the 3 leaf pack + AAL + factory overload. 7.75" are on the way.
     
  15. Oct 26, 2015 at 11:13 AM
    #95
    Mr.T

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    Your truck looks good and the comparison pics to a stock TRD is great. I am looking at doing this same kit on my 15' TRD and doing new leaf springs in the rear at the same time. I have a shell and weight in the bed most of the time so I am thinking the OME with the 3rd leaf removed would be a good option.

    A couple of questions for you:
    1. Did the front shocks & coils come assembled? Seem like there are some pics of peoples coming assembled, but I doubt they do...
    2. Do you think the rear piggyback shocks are worth the money over a typical Bilstein 5100, especially if you are beefing up (AAL) or replacing the rear leaf springs? I am guessing the Baja shocks are valved for stock springs? Looks like you can order the individual components as well which makes me question whether the cost of the rear shocks is worthwhile.

    PTR13-35120-AA Front Springs
    PTR13-35120-AB Left Front Shock
    PTR13-35120-AF Right Front Shock
    PTR13-35120-AC Rear Shock (Need 2)
    PTR13-35120-AD Hardware Kit
    PTR13-35120-AE Bushings and Brackets
     
  16. Oct 26, 2015 at 11:17 AM
    #96
    nd4spdbh

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    Go with the bilstein 6112 front kit. Its the same as the baja kit, gives you more height adjustment options and is cheaper. For the rear if you have a cap the dakars will be great. Then pair then with w/e rear shock you want, OME / 5100's etc etc.

    The baja kit will not come pre assembled and neither will the 6112 kit. BUT you do not need to use a spring compressor if you loose the LCA cam bolts and use the weight of the truck to compress the spring.
     
  17. Oct 26, 2015 at 11:33 AM
    #97
    crashnburn80

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    I didn't realize you could purchase the components individually like that.

    I agree with your assessment that with a shell, replacing the springs is the way to go. With the leaf removed the OME will give approx. 2.25" unloaded, so with the shell you may end up with a little more lift in the rear than the 1.5" AAL. (Nothing wrong with that). Another option would be the Toytec BOSS 2" rear leaf pack.

    1) No they do not come assembled
    2) Realistically the remote resi shocks are overkill unless you are doing rapid suspension cycling to generate high heat. (Desert style racing). However the Baja rears are also designed for extended travel, and are almost 1.5" longer than stock, which pairs well with the 1.5" rear lift. The 5100s I think come in 0-1" or 2-3". So 1.5" puts the 5100 in a bit of no-mans land.

    Correct the Baja shocks are tuned for the Baja springs. They are the same shock body as the 6112, but they are not the same shock as the valving/tuning is proprietary to TRD, and designed specifically for the Tacoma with the 650lb TRD coils. As to the rears it pairs very well with the progressive AAL, but I can see how you are saying you are changing the spring rate anyway, so what value is the custom tuned rear shock.
     
  18. Oct 26, 2015 at 11:36 AM
    #98
    Mr.T

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    I hear you on the Bilstein 6112 being the same and a little less money, but my truck is new - 1500 miles. Therefore, I am thinking it is worth the extra $75 for the Baja front setup to maintain the factory warranty on everything. The Baja shocks can be found online for $329 each and the spring set is $115. Seems worthwhile to buy the low profile bump stops to gain a little travel. I am only looking to lift about 2" in the front and I figure I can always add 1/4" spacers if I add more weight with a bumper.

    The rear springs need help and I am OK with voiding the warranty on the rear stuff by replacing with OME springs and 5100s.

    The other option is I just go with the full OME kit and not worry about maintaining the full warranty on everything (I would likely go 884 or 885 coils to keep the height 2.5" or less). I would be curious to drive the 6112 (or Baja) as well as an OME setup to see how they compare, but the rear setup would need to be similar on the trucks for a decent comparison I would think - not a stock Baja vs full OME kit. Anyone have thoughts on how the Bilstein and OME compare?
     
  19. Oct 26, 2015 at 11:43 AM
    #99
    crashnburn80

    crashnburn80 [OP] Vehicle Design Engineer

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    You will not void your warranty either way, unless your mod directly causes a part to fail and Toyota can prove it.

    The OME rear shocks have known fitment issues on 2015 Tacomas for some trucks. Toytec strongly advises against it. Some members have 'made it work' others haven't and some don't have an issue. Also suggest reading the numerous threads about banging when going over speed bumps with OEM front shocks due to the lack of an internal bump stop causing metal to metal contact. See the big bold print at the bottom: http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/OME-Tacoma-Suspension-lift-kit_p_231.html

    The OME ride is softer (depending on spring rate) where as the Baja feels sportier. It is firm but not harsh, like driving a sporty car. Anyone I have talked to that have driven the softer TRD Pro vs the Baja prefer the Baja.
     
  20. Oct 26, 2015 at 12:35 PM
    #100
    Mr.T

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    I understand you do not void your warranty, but you do basically give up warranty on parts that the lift effects. I have heard that if you do the Pro or Baja kit you will retain warranty on everything since it is OEM. If you go with an aftermarket lift, they (Toyota) can say the part wore out to the effect of the lift. CV joints is a good example because the lift obviously effects the operating angle and adds increased wear. Not sure if it really matters, but that is one benefit of going with the Pro or Baja in my mind.

    I read that as well on the OME rear shocks on the 2015 so that is why I am thinking Bilsteins in the rear with the OME leaf springs. I had not heard about the banging over speed bumps - do you mean with OME front shocks? (assuming not OEM) Do you have a link to one of those threads?

    That is interesting that the OME ride is softer - I would have thought the opposite. I did read about the Pro vs the Baja and I would prefer stiffer - especially since I actually use my truck as a truck.
     

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