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Setting up bumpstop suggestions.

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by M192, Mar 17, 2016.

  1. Mar 18, 2016 at 7:28 PM
    #41
    VolcomTacoma

    VolcomTacoma Well-Known Member

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    Get yourself an electric impact, and make sure the torx bit is the right one. T55 IIRC. Make sure you put your full weight down so the bit doesnt slip. I had to cut a bolt out because the bit slipped to much and turned the bolt head in to a round hole lol. The bolt was also rusted to shit on the frame. Do yourself a favor and squirt some rust buster on the bolts at the frame a couple hours before you break them loose.
     
  2. Mar 18, 2016 at 7:31 PM
    #42
    M192

    M192 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have a porter cable electric impact came in a kit with the drill. It's not strong at all. But I think my uncle has a good one.
     
  3. Mar 18, 2016 at 9:09 PM
    #43
    VolcomTacoma

    VolcomTacoma Well-Known Member

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    Front- Camburg 4x4 Long Travel 2.5" King Coilovers 2.5" King Triple Bypasses Wheelers Superbumps Rear- DMZ SUA 16" 3.0 King Triple Bypasses 3" 2.0 Fox bumps Wheels and Tires- 295/75/16 Toyo ATII XTREME SCS SR8 Dark Matte Bronze 16" Lighting- (2) 30" Combo light bars (4) Iggycorp diffused pods Tepui Ayer TRD Supercharger URD Mark III 3" Exhaust URD 4x4 Y Pipe URD CAI URD 2.85 Stealth Pulley Hurst Core Shifter with Hurst T URD Stage 3 clutch URD Lightweight flywheel URD Throw out bearing upgrade AEM Wideband AFR Gauge Speedhut Boost Gauge Craven Speed Flex Pod mount Weathertech Floor Liners BAMF Sliders Ultragauge sPod SE ARB CKMTA12 Hella Supertone horns Relentless Tailgate Reinforcement
    Depending on how rusted in the bolts are and if the rust buster works, you might just have to take a giant breaker bar to them. Sometimes they pop right out, sometimes they need a little help breaking loose ;)
     
  4. Mar 18, 2016 at 9:58 PM
    #44
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    yeah without taking the bed off, good luck welding the inside edge of the bracket to the frame. Hell even the top forward and back parts of the bracket to the frame will be a BITCH in that tight of space without the bed off.
     
  5. Mar 18, 2016 at 10:19 PM
    #45
    VolcomTacoma

    VolcomTacoma Well-Known Member

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    Front- Camburg 4x4 Long Travel 2.5" King Coilovers 2.5" King Triple Bypasses Wheelers Superbumps Rear- DMZ SUA 16" 3.0 King Triple Bypasses 3" 2.0 Fox bumps Wheels and Tires- 295/75/16 Toyo ATII XTREME SCS SR8 Dark Matte Bronze 16" Lighting- (2) 30" Combo light bars (4) Iggycorp diffused pods Tepui Ayer TRD Supercharger URD Mark III 3" Exhaust URD 4x4 Y Pipe URD CAI URD 2.85 Stealth Pulley Hurst Core Shifter with Hurst T URD Stage 3 clutch URD Lightweight flywheel URD Throw out bearing upgrade AEM Wideband AFR Gauge Speedhut Boost Gauge Craven Speed Flex Pod mount Weathertech Floor Liners BAMF Sliders Ultragauge sPod SE ARB CKMTA12 Hella Supertone horns Relentless Tailgate Reinforcement
    It can be done, I watched BAMF at his shop do it...but like I said above, its easy enough to just remove the bed bolts and prop up one side of the bed a few inches just to get the gun in there.
     
  6. Jul 12, 2016 at 4:26 PM
    #46
    M192

    M192 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Holy shit finally got around to putting the relocate kit on. It's awesome except my leafs are almost flat while sitting on the level. So when I start flexing they go in the negative. Not super bad but the bumps are like 1 1/2-2 inches away from making contact. So now my question is so how negative is too negative. And if I'm rarely there will it be that bad? My leafs are about 2 1/2 years old. image.jpgimage.jpg image.jpg
     

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