Setup Help - 2023 Tacoma

I assume you’re talking about lift height.

With the 5100’s on stock springs on the 5th perch, I’m at approximately 2” of lift. I haven’t measured it exactly, but I used to have a 2” spacer lift which was a 2” slab of metal and this setup gives me about the same ride height. So I didn’t feel a need to measure it.

That’s just in the front because the 5100’s don’t add any lift in the rear. I can tell you that I fit 33”s with no rubbing on the road. No chance 34’s or 35’s would fit without a whole bunch of work though.

Those look cool and all but unless you’re planning on doing actual rock crawling, you probably never need anything more than a 33” tire. Like I said in my earlier post, my 32’s don’t look super cool but they’ve literally taken me on trails and beaches of all sorts, all over the country, with zero issues.

 

Doubtful… I’m saying this based on how they are “advertised as” compared to how much true Hub to fender clearance happens. For instance I am taking manufacturers now comparing numbers. 2” lift real world ended up with 1 5/8ths lift center hub to fender or less.

Based on my mock up I need 2 3/4 - 3 hub to fender to clear without any major rubbing with offset correction. So I’ll look into these 3-3.5 lifts and hopefully somewhere someone posted hub to fender numbers. All the lifts 4 are just overkill with new cross members and the works. I don’t need that and will play with tire size before jacking up the frame.

 

I’ve had plenty of nice 31s and 32s get me where I needed to go on smaller rigs. Usually plenty for the snow and mud. It really all boils down to weight and footprint. I’m sure I could handle the mud and snow fine on smaller, it’s the dunes here that would be the challenge. Very loose very dry sand that needs that big footprint. But it’s too much fun to not try and do it right.

Worst case I could try a set of paddle tires I’ve seen some tacomas with it but that’s ment for higher HP and would put strain on everything. Had good luck with fat tires on light vehicles floating right over the sand there. All the full size trucks are running 38s or bigger just to not sink in.

 

Why do you think you need a diff drop?
https://youtu.be/47aat1tc6zw

Also, if you’re planning on spending money on an AAL, just send the money to me. That way you don’t have to try sell it later when you buy new spring packs.

I’m sensing askhole, but I’m trying to give you the benefit of the doubt and assuming Dunning-Krueger is at play.

 

I did 2.5 lift, 275 17 pro rims, 2" cheap add a spring and wildpeaks. Can clear anything and go anywhere. Two years in and wouldn't change a thing. Get a ton of compliments and offers to buy.

 

I learned my lessons with IFS going beyond a 2.5 lift in the past not dropping the diff. I mean they worked sure but I burned up CVs and even a third member before. Every single kit I see comes with the diff drop so I assumed tacomas had the same issues if not I’m all ears. I’d rather not move it if it can handle the angle… exactly why I’m asking which route to go.

As for the rear I’m seeing the same complaints of bad angles and seals 2 inches and up with springs, blocks, or AAL… More relocation brackets instead of fixing the angle. So again if someone has a nice spring pack that will get me 2-2.5 at the proper angle I can do that too. I like OME but seeing reviews that they are sagging after a year or so… again all ears that’s the point of asking

 

FYI, if you planning to cycle your suspension, a lift won’t help you clear wider/larger tires. With Toyota IFS, you are just changing the starting point, your wheel will still travel through the same range of motion as it did stock. You just end up with more uptravel and less downtravel.

My OME 2” lift settled at 1 3/4” with steel sliders, aluminum stump bumper + winch and TRD skid plate. I’m a happy camper.

Watch these videos and you will fully understand what I mean:

https://youtu.be/LAYGdcKSA3o


https://youtu.be/_68Hc8GtLko

This guy is fantastic!

 

My rear leafs gave me just over 2” of lift, had to install 4 degree shim under the axle to correct minor driveline vibrations. Smooth as butter now.

 

Sounds perfect! I noticed guys mentioning shims or using angled blocks so I assumed it screwed it up a bit. Both are cheap fixes so I’ll toss a couple in the cart with the springs to be safe. What brand springs did you get?

after looking at everyone’s struggle I think I’ll just splurge for the adjustable coil overs and adjustable UCA so I have as much room to play with correcting for the larger tires and change to suspension location on the fronts.

 

I’m running dobinsons medium leafs.

 

Ironman Foam Cell Pro. Heavy springs front and rear. I'm able to clear 34" tires with just under 11" cross section without any cutting or rubbing. Its all about the alignment.

 

Did you cycle your front suspension?

 

Oh yes...many times. Gets close to the cab mount and flare in the back due to the caster but luckily the limited wheels have such a positive offset, I'm closer to the UCA than I am the cab mount. And if the tires have mud on them or are at full pressure, I will rub the top of the liner at full stuff. Air down to 13 on the trails and I'm golden.

 

Nice man!

What is the exact size of tires you are running?

 

275/70R18 - Treadwright Wardens. Math says they are 33.2" but measure out new right at 34" at 32PSI. Drop down to about 33" at 13PSI.