severe brake rub after rotor and pad replacement

hey guys i swapped out my rotors and pads last night to new oem pro parts, but the pads were real tight getting into the calipers. i thought maybe after a few stops they would seat and align properly but after about 10 the braking was super rough, pad rub was far worse, and the rotors got very hot. I only pryed the pistons apart with screwdrivers and a pry bar, so i might get a c clamp on there and double check the orientation of my pads, any other ideas on what could help give me more clearance?

also side not the pistons moved quite freely so i don't think its a siezed piston issue.

 

I’m betting the Pro rotors are thicker. Did you check before swapping what the rotor thickness of original rotors where? And did you buy the oe new parts from a dealer?

 

You should be able to get the pistons to retract all the way in. I use a clamp. Maybe the reservoir is overfilled?

Pull the wheels off, try clamping the calipers. I like to use 2 clamps. Slightly tighten 1, the next one goes on slightly tighter, remove the loose one put it back on slightly tighter, repeat until the piston is all the way in. I usually do it using the 1 old pad in against the piston. If I can get it with 1 clamp I’ll tighten, back off, tighten back off until the piston is all the way in. If the reservoir is overfilled it’ll make a mess. If you leave the cap off it’ll squirt all over the place. You could turkey baster some brake fluid out. I like to leave the cap off, cover it with a rag and something substantial so the rag doesn’t fall off or get blasted off.

You could also confirm they gave you the correct parts. Pads should go in easily, not be tight against the rotor until you do the first pedal press. Once back together, before you press the pedal, spin the rotors. There might be a slight uneven rubbing but they shouldn’t be impossible to rotate. The first pedal press will probably go to the floor. Refill reservoir. Pump a few times pedal feel will return. Recheck rotors spin fairly freely. After test drive, top off reservoir if necessary.

 

Did you remove the caliper bracket and mounting hardware to clean out (wire wheel or similar) the areas where the ears of the pads locate? When you put everything back together, did you use the proper lubricant recommended by Toyota to insure the pads continue to move freely? Did you notice if any of the pistons in the caliper moved harder (or more freely) than the others? Calipers that worked perfectly well before a brake job have been known to lock up when the pistons are moved back into the bores after a long period of time in the extended position.

 

yeah bought the pads and rotors from partssource in calgary, havent checked the original thickness or the thiuckness of the new pads, will try gettting some of the fluid out of the reservoir as well. in did try cleaning out the calipers a bit but their pretty covered in crap so ill make a little more space with some emery. the lubricant i used was the grease that came with the pads.

 

Just out of curiosity, what are "oem pro parts?"

 

sorry they are OE+ pro series, just the brand name and i think the pro series is their mid range quality. my bad.

also there is one pad with a tab on it, im assimung this is a wear indicator buit not sure if that goes on the innne ror outer of the rotor

 

One of the chain stores comes to mind, autozone or oreileys who sells pro series. When you use the term oem, we all assume you’re talking about from the Toyota parts counter at a dealership.

Unfortunately, many of the parts sold at the chain stores is subpar quality, doesn’t fit, doesn’t work. I’ve had some luck with Napa, the other places not so much.

Once, I did a brake job on a Tug, they use them at airports for moving airplanes and luggage cars. New rotors and new pads would not go together. The new rotors had to be cut. That’s the only time I’ve seen that.

 

Either there is an issue with the pads and rotors are too thick or you have a seized caliper.