Shake/hop from rear at 42-55 mph (SOLVED)

I'm glad you found additional data!
If you could, consider updating the thread title to start with the word "unsolved," as threads with so many responses are so frequently reduced to conjecture and I often disregard them myself.
You're beyond the grounds I've treaded.

 

I’ll go do that now. I went to a different shop today (the shop who did my last set of tires) and asked them to re balance them for me. I watched them do it and they did it on a hub centric machine. And I have 1/2” of spacers under the carrier bushing and it’s definitely the best it has been. I am still within the 1 year warranty on my general tires so I’m going to see if I can get a new set, they’re probably going to tell me to shit I’m my hat but it’s worth a shot. It is at the very least tolerable now. But I still suspect the carrier bushing to be the issue but I don’t want to replace with anything but the OEM one and a spicer U joint if I have to take the center in out to get to the bushing.

Rant over. I was about ready to burn my truck to the ground. Thanks everyone for the help. I think I’m getting closer.

 

"Shuddering during acceleration is another symptom commonly associated with a faulty support bearing. A failed bearing will not be able to properly support the drive shaft, and as a result the drive shaft will flex incorrectly, which will cause vibration and shuddering. In more severe cases of support bearing failure, the driveshaft may even shudder and flex to the point of making contact with the undersides of the vehicle, which can cause damage to both the driveshaft and the chassis." - autoblog

If the issue is with the carrier bearing or its bushing (I'm new to RWD/4WD) then the result should be visible vibration of the driveshaft while in motion at the problematic speed. If that driveshaft is running true...
tires?
Did spacering the carrier bushing happen at the same time?

 

None of this is new to Tacoma owners that is why many posts on same type issues.
Weak rear springs are the first issue with spring wrap and driveshaft angles changing.
Then you have the 2 piece driveshaft with the center carrier bearing that is often a sloppy mess.
Hunt away and play with shims etc or as some of us have done install better aftermarket springs and a 1 piece driveshaft.
This along with a good front tire/rim balance seems to resolve most of the Tacoma vibration problems.
Basically the dealers are no help as Toyota never really took responsibility for the problem with a real fix.
Good luck.

 

With no disrespect intended, sincerely, would those components still be weak points if folks didnt lift their truck, enlarge wheels and tires (increase weight), increase tread block size (traction) and reduce offset of wheels? Its like.. having yer legs lengthened and feet caked in cement, then talking about back problems when you try to run like you used to.

I like the idea of having a driveshaft broken up into multiple pieces personally as it'd be cheaper to replace (I imagine) and less prone to warping. Electrical systems have fuses to protect more expensive components, is it realistic to say that the same is being done here?
Not trying to be smart, trying to learn.

 

You could borrow a runout gauge and test tire tread roundness, .050" thousandths max allowable, and sidewall runout, .050" thousandths also max allowable. This will tell you in a hurry if you got a faulty mfg tire. The tire can be quarter turned on the rim to achieve best runout overall if specs are close.

 

Solved. First post edited

 

Thank you for posting the fix .

Did post # 28 help you come to this conclusion

 

it was the only thing I hadn’t done I guess I should have tried it sooner

 

That's.. crazy. I'd never imagine that the wheels would not be centered by those acorn lug nuts. You know, I'd long forgotten about this thread, but did actually experience something similar a month or so back with my Honda Fit.
A neighbor's son likes to help me work on stuff now and then, and after lending me a hand with brakes and rotors, he torqued the wheels for me.
I'd set the wrench for him, and he put 'em on and such. 80 ftlbs. He torqued 'em rather slow, not using speed/momentum and trying to be precise. I figured a click is a click and I mean, the acorn shaped lug nuts should center stuff well enough.

I drove the thing and it felt lack-luster but I couldn't put a pin in why. Hard time clutching my way out of a stop, I thought my left leg must be fatigued. (The wheel assemblies are rather small 16x7s with 215/50s on 'em, and the engine is a 1.5L, so a little resistance is easily noticable but can be caused by near anything)

Anyways, a week or so later I did a rotation and torqued my own wheels in a normal way and found that the car felt much better to drive, next to no shudder engaging first gear, like drag/mechanical resistance had been removed. It may be time for me to replace my torque wrench (or lube the seats for the lug nuts, hah!) Thank you for chiming back in and apologies for all the tire recommendations!

 

Ok so the issue is once and for all solved.

it was my pro comp 7005 wheels.

I bought a set of FN F(x) pro wheels and some toyo open country tires.

the wheels were the only constant the ENTIRE time I had the vibration.

so I’m here to finally close the loop. And the truck looks rad as hell now with bronze wheels