Sheared lug nut help…

I will preface this by saying nearly every vehicle I’ve had before calls for 90-100 ft/lbs torque for lug nuts. Just rotated the tires today and sheared a lug nut off. I was torquing them with my craftsman digital torque wrench that I use on all lug nuts and it didn’t even reach the 95 ft/lbs I had it set at when it sheared off. They are OEM Toyota lug nuts on OEM studs. Now after looking up the specs it seems Toyota calls for 83 ft/lbs? Unbelievable that over torquing by 10 ft/lbs will shear a lug nut


Anyone have any bright ideas getting this out? I haven’t tried taking the wheel off so maybe it will still come off but I’ll work on it again tomorrow. Thanks in advance

 

I don’t know if it’s how the nut broke or what but it looks very porous to me? I’m assuming this brown/rusty looking discoloration is just heat from when it actually sheared? I guess it’s possible this lug nut is just a fluke?

 

I've never seen it snap off like that.

Anyways, you are going to need a drill.
The studs are M12.

Once the stud is gone, the shank of the lug nut will come right out.
DO NOT DRILL TOO DEEP.
If you open up the hole for the stud in the axle, it's BAD NEWS.

 

I figured I would. I appreciate it. I’ve never seen anything like this, I’ve changed more tires/rotated them on cars more times than I can count. It’s unbelievable honestly

 

Usually, the stud snaps.
Not the lug nut.....

 

The wheel should still come off, that part of the nut shouldn't be holding anything.

 

.It's happened to me a couple of times, take the wheel off & the shoulder should spin rite off.

 

Yeah I didn’t have time tonight to try and take the wheel off. Hopefully it comes right off tomorrow. Thanks everyone

 

Did the washer come out?
or is it still stuck on the stud.

 

It wasnt the 10lb over torque that caused it to fail. The rust shows it was already compromised before it failed completely. Maybe it got hit with a few too many ugga duggas on an impact a few times, maybe it was just bad metal to begin with.

 

You shouldn't have to drill anything. The stud looks fine

Just get a new nut, or a set..

 

And 83 lb/ft is fine. Going up to 95 isn't making it more safe, you're just stretching the stud more

 

Every vehicle is different. Never assume the torque spec (which I'm sure you now know). And with the internet it's literally a 30 second look up.

My old 5 lug F150 was 150 lb-ft if you can believe it.

 

I think I’ll just replace the whole set. I’ve been rotating these wheels for years the same way I did last night, I bought these lug nuts about a year ago to match with the powdercoated wheels. They are OEM Toyota lug nuts, and look just like the actual OEM ones I still have in my garage somewhere except the old ones are chrome….need to find them today. Anyways. I wonder if the black ones are weaker than the chrome ones. Who knows. I just know I’ll be torquing them to 83 ft/lbs now lol, and I’m glad I broke a lug nut instead of a stud

 

I torque my Tacoma lug nuts to 85 ft-lbs. and our HHR lug nuts to 100 ft-lbs. The difference, Toyota uses smaller studs than Chev did on the HHR. If you want to make it an issue, it's in the design engineering.

 

You're just too strong brother. That's incredible.

 

I'm not positive, but pretty sure all OEM lug nuts have had the chrome cap on them, not black. That chrome cap causes its own issues with swelling, but are you sure those aren't aftermarket?

 

I've never seen anyone break a lug nut before...

 

And if you use lube or antiseize on the studs, the torque should be reduced by 10-15%. I do and torque mine to 75 ft-lbs.