Shellshock's DIY inflator / deflator

Cheers!

Not having to squat the whole time and being able to chat is a big deal for me. A side at a time is perfect. You don't want the four tire version. It is just a messy octopus and too bulky.

I was using this kit in the garage also, but then ended up getting more stuff. I bought more of the same fittings and gauge. Been checking the tires more often as it is almost fun. Found at least one leak doing that.

You're welcome! 0.061in is much more stiff than the 0.041in. At least you can rebuild the tool that you made.

 

Forgot to post this. I’ve been using a 1/4” version. Nice part is it fits in my ARB compressor case

 

Looks good! Planning on doing this soon. For your latest 1/4" version did you still go with 6ft whips for the shorter runs? I'm not finding those so assuming you instead did a 25ft hose and then just bought the individual pro/swivel fittings.

 

Yep I went with a long hose and chopped it. Bought a couple flexzilla pro fittings for the ends and a generic 1/4” T fitting for @tonered clamps in the middle.

I believe this are 7’ and the lead is 8’. Went a little longer since the hose is thin.

 

Nice! So which is faster, your 3/8" or 1/4" version? Also, are you still using the (v2) pressure regulator setup? I'm thinking about going that route, but I'm not exactly sure how it works. Maybe you can enlighten me.

EXAMPLE: If I install a 90 - 120 pressure switch on the compressor, it will shut off the compressor at 120 psi. If I also add a 50 psi regulator, it will limit the air pressure to 50 psi.

So, in this scenario, will the compressor ever shut off, or will it continue to run, but at 50 psi? TIA!

 

I should compare them. I keep forgetting to do that

I usually use the flexzilla inflator. The regulator I got came with the wrong gauge and I never got around to replacing it. It works well for inflation but not so much for deflation (it’s super slow)

if you have a 50 psi regulator, the compressor still still shut off because the pressure behind the regulator will still build, tripping your pressure switch. So you’d have 50 psi forward of the regulator and 120 in the hose behind it

 

Thanks guys for leading the way on these compressor mods! After making both versions of @Shellshock 's SDI, I decided to make @tonered 's Viair 300P mods. I wanted to refine it, so it would have a cleaner look, without the relay wires or extra hoses. As Tony told me, his looks a little Frankenstein with all of the wires!

This would require moving the relay to the inside of the switch cover. Looking inside the cover, I was able to find enough space for the relay and the panel-mounted XT60 connector. This connector allows me to switch out the pressure switch, or to bypass it altogether by using a bypass plug.

To do the female quick disconnect mod, I was already changing out the male quick disconnect for a M14 x 1/4" mnpt adapter. This new fitting enabled me to install a Viair multiport Tee fitting above the switch cover and also move the 30A pressure switch (w/attached leads) with it.

 

Good stuff. I like it.

 

parts list for v3 added to the second post (what im currently using)

lot of this stuff is currently on sale for prime day too

 

Thank you guys very much for the info in this thread. Ever since I saw the 4-way inflator I wanted one but there was no way I was going to pay the price of one knowing the materials could be worth that much. I was able to make it for a fraction of the cost all from Amazon and from info/parts in this thread.

I was also able to find a good quality jumper cable bag for cheap on Amazon in order to store the kit in. Took a gamble on the size and it worked out perfectly. Let me know if you want a link to the bag I got. It’s also got another pocket up front to carry miscellaneous items. I am using it to carry extra valve stem caps as I tend to lose them often when airing up/down.

 

Nice! Super clean. A parts list would stellar if you have the time?

 

Thanks! I tested it out for the first time today with the 0-60 psi regulator that @Shellshock found and it worked great.
These are the parts I used to add the pressure switch:

1. Any Bosch style, 4 pin relay. I had a box of 6,
   $16 TRUE MODS 6 Pack Bosch Style 5-Pin 12V Relay Kit [Interlocking Harness Socket Holder] [14 AWG Hot Wires] [SPDT] [30/40 Amp] 12 Volt Automotive Relays for Auto Fan Cars
   5 pin relays, so I used one of those, instead. For a better fit, I removed the part of the relay cover that holds the metal mounting tab. It's a tight fit under the switch cover, so you will also want to minimize the amount of wiring you use.
   
2. A Metric Fitting, Male Adapter: M14X1.0 to 1/4" NPT.
3. A Viair Multiport (Tee) Fitting. I used
   $13 Viair 92846 1/4" Male x 1/8" Female x 1/4" Female NPT T-Fitting
   P/N 92846, but P/N 92821 will work, too. It just depends if you want to connect a 1/4" mnpt or fnpt QC.
4. I originally wanted to find a high amp pressure switch so I could omit the relay. I thought one of the Viair 30A sealed pressure switch would be suitable, but after conferring with the owner of Newmatics, Inc. (an air ride suspension company), I decided to use a relay and not risk destroying the PS. Coincidentally, Newmatic has their own branded PS that look identical to the Viair sealed pressure switches. These are probably rebranded Viair switches, as the specs are also identical. For instance, the 50223 I purchased and the Viair 90223 are both: 30A, 90/120 psi, with 12 AWG, 5.25" wires. The major difference is about $13 in the price ($19 vs $32).
5. $10 XT60E-M+XT60 Wire Connector 5 Pairs,Mountable Male Female Plug Connector for RC Model Multicopter
   XT60 panel mounted connectors. There are a lot of vendors selling this types of connector. However, the ones I purchased are made of nylon, not plastic like others on the market.
   
6. Most of the sellers do not include screws with the connectors. If you need to purchase screws separately, the thread size is M2.5 x .45. The length I bought was 8mm.

Let me know if you want a step by step installation write-up.

 

Awesome. Seems like all good quality stuff.
Thanks again.

 

FYI - They don’t fit.

 

That stinks.

I'm sure that you can sell them off pretty easily.

 

You could get a set of these

Muzzys (Pack of Four) Double Seal Flow Through Valve Stem Tire Caps, Inflate Thru for High Pressure Truck Car RV Semi Bus Tires -INFLATE Tires and Check Pressure Without Removing The CAPS!- V2B DS-1

$10 Muzzys (Pack of Four) Double Seal Flow Through Valve Stem Tire Caps, Inflate Thru for High Pressure Truck Car RV Semi Bus Tires -INFLATE Tires and Check Pressure Without Removing The CAPS!- V2B DS-1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BVVJCFQ

 

Question for all you fine folks who have built & used one of these kits: I see most people making the leads to each wheel equal lenghts of about 6 feet. Wouldn't it (at least in theory) be better to make them different lengths, i.e. offsetting the compressor lead to one side? Generally most people will have the compressor on either the driver or passenger side and not the center. Doing it this way would allow you to use a couple feet less hose which means a smaller package to carry. It's not a huge deal but hey why not optimize it a little more?

Example to show my sick MS Paint skills:

 

You could make like a 1ft and a 11ft but that’s not how my brain works and wanted them equal…cuz I’m equalizing

I figured there’s some physics fluid dynamics thing where it would over inflate the tire with the short hose cuz of less resistance or something then youd have to wait for them to equalize between them

or maybe that’s not true but that’s how I thought it through and never tried one with unequal lengths.

someone smarter than me can do the math on that lol or make one to test it and report back

 

Mine is roughly equal. The ones that I made for other folks are unequal. I base it off of the type of compressor and where the compressor is.

Zero issue either way.