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Shifter won't budge into any gears...

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by ericp95, Mar 27, 2020.

  1. Mar 27, 2020 at 2:51 PM
    #1
    ericp95

    ericp95 [OP] Mean Jeanine

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    Hello TW.. having some issues after my recent off-road trip into the snow. Everything was fine when we were stuck, when we were spinning tires, but towards the end of the day I ended up at a dead end and had to pop a u-turn on a single lane, tight road. I climbed up and down the walls of snow in front and behind me until the truck was turned around. When I was already turned around and attempted to put the shifter into first, I heard a loud cranking/scraping noise coming from underneath the engine bay. I couldn't put the shifter into first so I dropped it into reverse. After I took it out of reverse, it would not go back in. Had to get a tow truck to take me home because I could not shift into any gears whatsoever. It shifts right but not left. The shifter moves slightly up and down but not completely into any gears.

    I was wondering if anybody has had this problem and can help me out.. thanks. I can answer any questions you might have, the best I can. I attached some photos from when it happened so you guys can get a visual of the road and truck. Link to when it happened is on YouTube https://youtu.be/OP8LXt2M_c4 .

    –Eric
    2004 Toyota Tacoma V6 Manual

    IMG_2236.jpg
     
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  2. Mar 27, 2020 at 2:53 PM
    #2
    Kwikvette

    Kwikvette Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Oof, sub'd for results

    :popcorn:
     
  3. Mar 27, 2020 at 2:56 PM
    #3
    ericp95

    ericp95 [OP] Mean Jeanine

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    Yea oof is right.. I checked the slave cylinder and master cylinder, both look pretty good, no leaks. My clutch oil is lower than minimum so next step is to fill it to max, maybe it'll make a difference, probably not but trying to do little things before anything major. I also plan to drain the transmission fluid from underneath the bay to see if the oil drops any pieces of gears that might've broken. I'll keep you all posted, chime in if you get any ideas. Thanks
     
  4. Mar 27, 2020 at 3:05 PM
    #4
    toyrunner

    toyrunner Puddle Jumper

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    With the engine off, can you shift it into any gears?
     
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  5. Mar 27, 2020 at 5:03 PM
    #5
    ericp95

    ericp95 [OP] Mean Jeanine

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    No I can't. And the clutch seems the same as before. I'll check the pedal again for any leaks
     
  6. Mar 27, 2020 at 5:05 PM
    #6
    Black DOG Lila

    Black DOG Lila Well-Known Member

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    Hope all you need is a shifter bushing kit. Good luck.
     
  7. Mar 27, 2020 at 5:08 PM
    #7
    Hooligans

    Hooligans Well-Known Member

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    Still thinking about it.
    I don't know but I'm guessing it has nothing to do with clutch/hydraulic stuff. More like broken shifter internally. Shift fork?
     
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  8. Mar 27, 2020 at 6:33 PM
    #8
    ericp95

    ericp95 [OP] Mean Jeanine

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    Shifter bushing looks good I checked a couple days ago. Thanks though
     
  9. Mar 27, 2020 at 7:45 PM
    #9
    ericp95

    ericp95 [OP] Mean Jeanine

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    I will definitely look into that thank you
     
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  10. Mar 27, 2020 at 7:49 PM
    #10
    ericp95

    ericp95 [OP] Mean Jeanine

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  11. Mar 27, 2020 at 7:53 PM
    #11
    Hooligans

    Hooligans Well-Known Member

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    Still thinking about it.
    The shift fork I am thinking of is inside the transmission, part of the shifting mechanism but not related to the clutch or throwout bearing. It's what moves the synchros/gears when you move the shift lever.
     
  12. Mar 28, 2020 at 12:43 PM
    #12
    ericp95

    ericp95 [OP] Mean Jeanine

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    Minor leaking near the pedal but nothing major. I wiped it and will check it in a day or two to see if it's happening constantly. Doing more research on shift forks and synchronizers that Hooligans mentioned... learning a lot about clutch failure in the process. Here's another video from inside the cab.

    https://youtu.be/u4hTZkJIq_A
     
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  13. Mar 28, 2020 at 12:55 PM
    #13
    License2Ill

    License2Ill Woke like a Coma Toyota Tacoma

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    It's a dry heat thou, AZ
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    You'll want your clutch reservoir at the max line. If mine gets close to the low line my shifter won't want to come out of gear at certain instances.

    If you're losing fluid I'd replace all the hydraulics first. Throw a SS line in there while you're at it. And reevaluate. That's the cheapest route considering everything else involved..

    Miles on clutch?
     
  14. Mar 28, 2020 at 1:06 PM
    #14
    toyrunner

    toyrunner Puddle Jumper

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    If the master is leaking, I think maybe you are not getting full throw out of it. Try pumping the pedal a few times and see if the shifter will work.

    Didn't see video
    It does appear to be a transmission shift fork issue. Hard to tell without dis assembly
     
  15. Mar 28, 2020 at 1:22 PM
    #15
    ericp95

    ericp95 [OP] Mean Jeanine

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    Refilled the clutch reservoir yesterday, it was below the low line.

    The power steering had a leak but stop-leak fluid helped slow that problem down for the time being. I'd have to pressure wash the undercarriage to check if anything else is leaking because there's a substantial amount of old gunk from who knows where. Speaking of pressure washing the undercarriage, is it safe? You think I could unknowingly take out hose lines or anything of that sort as I do it? Also wouldn't want to flood anything in the engine bay.

    Not sure how many miles are on the clutch but the truck has over 175,000.
     
  16. Mar 28, 2020 at 1:32 PM
    #16
    ericp95

    ericp95 [OP] Mean Jeanine

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    I do not think the master is leaking (a whole lot). I tried pedal pumping yesterday after adding clutch fluid but still got nothing from the shifter. I'll try again today.

    Not sure why the video isn't working for you, I just uploaded an hour ago so maybe it's still configuring something.

    That's two mentions of the transmission shift fork, I'll take a look next week.
     
  17. Mar 28, 2020 at 2:00 PM
    #17
    License2Ill

    License2Ill Woke like a Coma Toyota Tacoma

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    It's a dry heat thou, AZ
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    Just keep the pressure nozzle away from the alternator, electrical connectors, electronics & especially away from where your spark plug & coils enter the valve covers. And also brittle rubber & plastics.

    I use Simple Green™. Let it sit for a few, then hose it off completely. It may take three or four applications and rinses to fully break down the crud.
     
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  18. Mar 28, 2020 at 2:05 PM
    #18
    toyrunner

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    I was saying I didn't look at the video! It works great!
     
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  19. Mar 28, 2020 at 2:29 PM
    #19
    ericp95

    ericp95 [OP] Mean Jeanine

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    What hydraulics are you thinking I should replace?
     
  20. Mar 28, 2020 at 2:53 PM
    #20
    License2Ill

    License2Ill Woke like a Coma Toyota Tacoma

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    It's a dry heat thou, AZ
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    If you're not sure of their age, I'd replace the master, slave & master to slave line. I'd get a braided SS line also. Just for the fact the rubber section of the stock line gets hot hanging out two inches from the exhaust header and can lead it to have a decrease in hydraulic efficiency.
    At least that's what the internet insists that's what I should believe...

    Master & slave shouldn't cost more that $65 bucks if you shop around. No recommendations of the SS braided line, as I haven't gotten around to doing it..

    Anybody on TW got some sources for the braided line?
     

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