Shock Hose rub/damage

Hello, new member here anyone know if the fix for hose rub in the rear is to install spacers, add new leaf springs/leaf spacer blocks, or something else? I just had these installed last week @ORW and already have a rub mark on my right rear hose
For leafs, I’ve been eyeing a used set of Deaver stage 2s or Dakar medium duties.
TIA!

 

Can you loosen the upper bolt and turn the shock body, so the hose turns away from the tire? You may also need to adjust the reservoir position to get the hose tighter to the frame.

Make sure the hose fitting isn't contacting the shock mounting bucket.

 

Is the reservoir mounted towards front of axle or rear of axle (truck)?

 

What wheels do you have? What is the backspacing of them?
What size tires?

Better notch the shock mounting bucket!

 

It doesn't appear that the shock body can be rotated any further towards the frame.

Plus, OP has hydrobumps, pure race truck stuff, that are also in the way.

OP, spacers seem to be the most simple solution.

 

The shock is mounted from the front of the axle with the bottom angled toward the rear and the top angled toward the front of the truck. (The right hand side-rear shock position.)

As far as the rotation is concerned, would I be able to adjust/rotate the bottom eyelet as well?

I currently have 285/70/17 on method wheels. And I don’t know the backspacing off hand. (Yet)

I also can’t recall having Bottomed out hard enough to hit that high. The install directions specified a particular distance from the center line of the top of the shock bolt to the center of the resi. If the punting bracket were moved forward would that create an issue for the hydraulic flow?

 

Agreed. Tire is rubbing on that hose while articulating. Spacers or different offset wheels should cure that...though if you didn't have those Icon bumpstops right there, you could rotate the upper shock body/hose out of harms way.

 

It looks like there's plenty of room to rotate the shock and move the hose closer to the frame.

You could also relocate the reservoir closer to the shock and route the hose over the bumpstop. The hydraulic fluid doesn't care about the path. The hose maintains the "separation" distance.

 

As far as rotating the shock; would the bottom eyelet rotate as well? Or is the eyelet held by a set screw that I Can losen to gain some rotation at the bottom?
Also, I think that I’m going to try rotating the resi to see if I can gain less slack in the hose or position it “as close to” over the Icon bump stops. Spacers are a strong consideration but I don’t want to go down the rabbits hole on whether or not spacers are OK.
Would it help at all to just get higher rated springs to hell with up travel and give the hose as much space vertically rather than just horizontally with spacers?

 

They can rotate independently of each other.

 

I know those hoses are tough to manipulate and move around but I'd try loosening up the remote reservoir clamps and slide the reservoir towards the shock to get some slack in the hose and try routing the hose over the bump stop? You might end up short of being able to put the reservoir back into the mount but worth a shot and as mentioned you could relocate the reservoir mount to fix that.

I took this pic from Accutunes website but seems on the race series foxes there's enough hose to potentially shift things around to make the hose go over the bump stop, maybe?

 

The shock body can rotate independently from the shaft/piston. Loosen the top mount and twist the body. Get a rag and twist it with channellock pliers if necessary.

At that point you'd be better off selling the resi shocks and getting IFP shocks. Uptravel is very important for high speed running.

 

Copy that, I’ll give that a try once I’m back at the garage.
I also just remembered that I have an ext. warranty on the install and that I should try contacting ORW with these suggestions. Assuming they’ll void it if I touch it first