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Shock/Suspension upgrade info needed from fellow 1st gens who've upgraded

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by adamdsgn, Sep 21, 2018.

  1. Sep 21, 2018 at 8:49 AM
    #1
    adamdsgn

    adamdsgn [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I know this has been discussed several times here so bare with me. The is my second post here... I've been lurking for some time!

    After reading thru all of the suspension info I could find, I settled on the Bilstein 5100 setup. I do not intend on adding lift, just want to upgrade the stock TRD suspension. I'm going to start with coils and shocks and possibly move onto rear leafs.

    From what I've read on TW if you want to stick with stock height you should add 5100s to the front (set at 0) and add 5125s to the rear because the rear 5100 is intended for 1"-1.5" of lift.

    So I called DSM and they said NO... They said they no longer sell the 5100/5125 combo because the difference in the rear 5100 and 5125 if only 1/4" and putting 5125s in the rear if you want to maintain the stock height will not work for fitment and performance. They said they will not sell the 5100/5125 combo anymore and do not recommend it because it's misleading.

    I wanted to hear from others who have a 1st gen that they've upgraded the shocks on and get some feedback. What should I do for a shock package (front and rear) and front coils? TIA.
     
  2. Sep 21, 2018 at 9:42 AM
    #2
    tony2018

    tony2018 Well-Known Member

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    wow, interesting.
     
  3. Sep 21, 2018 at 10:07 AM
    #3
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    For stock height you want the 4600's.

    Are you really looking to keep it at stock height? If so, your options for springs (coils and leafs) are more limited. There are a few brands (Moog, General) that are stock height, but from what I hear they tend to sag easily.

    If you are considering front coils and want a bit of a lift with moderate performance in mind, far and away the best deal is the full OME kit with coils, leafs, 4 shocks. The OME nitrochargers shocks are very similar in performance to the 5100s, but the fronts aren't height adjustable. Several years ago I went with 5100s and longer shackles in the back. Worked well for 6 or so years. I've since upgrade the front to mid travel Kings but so far the rear is still the oem leaf/5100/shackle.

    Normally, I adhere to the "buy once cry once" thing but I don't regret buying the 5100s first then later upgrading to the Kings. Back then it was my daily driver and I didn't do a lot of serious off roading so couldn't justify $1000+ for front (only) coilovers. I just needed some new shocks and a cheap/easy way to lift it to reduce the rubbing I was getting with my 265/75 tires.

    Things have changed now. Now it's my play truck. Deavers and Kings in the rear are next, along with a whole list of other upgrades/modifications.
     
  4. Sep 21, 2018 at 10:11 AM
    #4
    tony2018

    tony2018 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I think I'm gonna install those toytecs I got for the front...
     
  5. Sep 21, 2018 at 10:51 AM
    #5
    adamdsgn

    adamdsgn [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Jbrandt I appreciate all the info. My truck is my DD and just rolled over 327,000 miles. My plan is to give it to my 10 year old when she gets to the driving stage in life. At that point I'll upgrade to a newer Tacoma.

    I'm looking to replace the shocks, front springs, and rear leafs (maybe). Upgrading everything to a more heavy-duty setup would be great, but it's sounding like that isn't necessarily possible without adding lift. I'm not opposed to adding lift (I use to own an '85 4runner with 9 inches of lift), but I don't want to go down a rabbit hole of dumping a ton of money into the truck.

    I guess I need to weigh replacing the shocks vs. buying the OME lift kid and getting everything replaced at once. Do you happen to know how much lift the OME kit (you recommended) adds? What kind of performance enhancements should I see from the stock TRD elements I'll be replacing? TIA.
     
    MalinoisDad likes this.
  6. Sep 21, 2018 at 10:57 AM
    #6
    Sperrunner

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    The ome kit is supposed to be around 2.5”
     
  7. Sep 21, 2018 at 11:08 AM
    #7
    MalinoisDad

    MalinoisDad Misanthropic dog person

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    I'd like to chime in here, since I'm pretty much looking to do the same exact thing as OP. Basically I want to do something special for my truck, haha. Freshen up the suspension with as good or better components. Up to a max of a 2" lift, with (in theory) 1-1.5" being the sweet spot.

    Will this change angles of other components causing them premature wear? I've heard if a lift is done poorly or incompletely, it WILL cause issues. Fair to say about most things I suppose. Anyhow, that's what I want to avoid. And if that means having a reputable shop to the install since I'm still learning to work on my truck, then that's fine with me. I've seen too many of my own hot tub customers cause themselves more trouble by trying the DIY approach instead of calling the techs first.
     
  8. Sep 21, 2018 at 11:14 AM
    #8
    Tlrtucker

    Tlrtucker Well-Known Member

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    Why do so many guys not even consider the 4600's? From what I hear, they are the same valving as the 5100's, just no option for lift. Plus, they are what came on TRD's.

    Am I wrong here?
     
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  9. Sep 21, 2018 at 11:17 AM
    #9
    Sperrunner

    Sperrunner UA342

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    The 4600 is cheaper then a 5100 so if you plan to stay stock highet might as well just get 4600 and not 5100
    Because they will preform the same

    Edit: also 5100 in the rear are recommended with atleast 1” of lift, if you dont plan for any lift 4600 is the option for you
     
    mlcc, DustStorm4x4 and Area51Runner like this.
  10. Sep 21, 2018 at 11:22 AM
    #10
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    They are not what came on the TRDs. They were billsteins, but the yellow body ones that came on the TRDs were narrower than either the 4600 or 5100s.

    The 4600s are essentially the same as the 5100s, except for their length. I think most people looking for aftermarket "updraded" shocksa are also looking for a cheap/easy way to lift it. So, the 5100s accomplish that (sort of). The rear you need to at least lift it 1" with an aal or a shackle. And you can adjust the front to match.

    The 4600's are maybe a few bucks cheaper than the 5100's.
     
    outlawtacoma likes this.
  11. Sep 21, 2018 at 11:28 AM
    #11
    Tlrtucker

    Tlrtucker Well-Known Member

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    Gotcha. I've always heard they were the same, but didn't know for sure.
     
  12. Sep 21, 2018 at 11:34 AM
    #12
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    The only thing the OME "full kit" doesn't give you is a diff drop kit. The general consensus is that you should get a diff drop kit if you got above 2.5" of lift. Kits are cheap and usually cost about $30. Mine was like $20 but didn't come with spacers for the skid plate (diff will hit the skid plate without it).

    I'm running ~2" of lift, and I run a diff drop. The reason for me was that I also run mid travel coilovers that have more down travel than stock so I wanted the extra room so my CVs wont bind at full travel.

    As for doing the work yourself, it's really not that hard. There are plenty of videos online on how to do it. If you know righty-tighty lefty-loosey and have a few jack stands, you're good. Just get it aligned after you finish.
     
  13. Sep 21, 2018 at 11:41 AM
    #13
    Blue92

    Blue92 Well-Known Member

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    You shouldnt have too much trouble. On mine though, the 2" add a leaf made the carrier bearing not so happy. I think because it had sat for so many years at the old angle, changing the angle of the driveshaft made it start making noise. I got 1.75" lift out of OME 880 coils on 5100's up front and have had no issues up there at all.
     
  14. Sep 21, 2018 at 11:48 AM
    #14
    Sperrunner

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    Also to add that if you experience carrier bearing issues due to, to much lift that either axel shims or a cearrier bearing drop will solve that.
    Unless its just your carrier bearing that is bad
     
  15. Sep 21, 2018 at 11:58 AM
    #15
    adamdsgn

    adamdsgn [OP] Well-Known Member

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    A lot of good info here guys. I may decide to just go with the 4600s and leave it at that. However let me ask another question for my own clarification...

    I'm considering replacing the rear leafs with the Deaver J59 springs from Wheeler's: If I do this, these add 1.5" of lift, which will accommodate the 5100s in the rear. If I do this to the back and install the 5100's in the front and set them at 1.5" to match the rear, do I have to buy new coils for the front? If so, what can I go with that matches the 1.5" setting? The OME's if they are for 2.5" of lift wouldn't fit right? TIA.
     
  16. Sep 21, 2018 at 12:00 PM
    #16
    Sperrunner

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    I think the j59 dont hold weight all that well. Could be wrong.

    You can set 5100 up front to match the rear on stock coils or leave 5100 in the bottom setting and run ome 881 coils up front and it should sit the same
     
  17. Sep 21, 2018 at 12:03 PM
    #17
    adamdsgn

    adamdsgn [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Perfect. Although I read a long post from someone on here that put J59's with 5100s in the rear of his 1st gen Xcab and Boss coil overs in the front and he claimed the J59 were a huge upgrade in strength.
     
  18. Sep 21, 2018 at 12:07 PM
    #18
    Sperrunner

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    Ive haven’t read to much about the j59 so i could be wrong
    But if you are looking for 1.5” lift 5100 all around with j59 and either up a notch up front or 881 you will be good

    Might also wanna look into grease able bolts for the leafs. Maybe replacing any bushings you can up front as well. Help keep things lasting a long time
     
  19. Sep 21, 2018 at 12:17 PM
    #19
    adamdsgn

    adamdsgn [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Where can I find the added items? Greasable bolts, bushings, etc.? Will Wheelers be able to help me with these items?
     
  20. Sep 21, 2018 at 12:18 PM
    #20
    Sperrunner

    Sperrunner UA342

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    Yea wheelers can has all that. Give them a call and they will tell you whats best
     

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