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Shopping for my first Taco! Help me decide!

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Mach375, Sep 18, 2010.

  1. Sep 18, 2010 at 1:49 AM
    #1
    Mach375

    Mach375 [OP] Habitual Violator of Wheeling Rule #2

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    Sathington "Alowicious Devadander Abercrombie" Willoughby (but you can call me Mud)
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    '11 DCLB 4x4 TRD Sport
    Too much to list, but enough to get me in trouble. Repeatedly.
    Alright. First post here. Forgive me for sounding noobish.

    Looking at buying a new Taco from the dealer.

    My Unwavering Requirements are: manual, 4x4, NO short bed, NO standard cab.
    My preferred are: L4, access cab, standard bed. Color doesn't matter for this post. Accessories/options are what this post's focus is on.

    Having done my research on Toyota's website, here's what I see available for me (weird, but entering different zip codes brings up different available options. Go figure):
    (1) Standard bed, access, 4x4, L4, manual, with the following factory option codes: AL, EV, FE, SL.
    (2) Standard bed, access, 4x4, V6, manual, with the following factory option codes: EV, FE, OC, RL, TO.
    Accessory codes will be the same for each: CF, S0, DI01, DI03, DI13, DI15, DI16, 37.

    So here's my question:

    What options and accessories are better to get at the dealer (ie. factory-installed) and which are better to get aftermarket?

    If aftermarket, what are the generally agreed-on manufacturers, and best-price sellers? (I prefer quality over price, if it makes a difference).

    What I need, specifically: armor, lockers, suspension, minor lift, lights (not excessive!!), shell, rack, 120V AC, minor bolt-on performance improvements (exhaust, intake, etc). I am NOT looking for anything radical--no rock crawling, no mudding, no swamp bogging, no doubling the price of the truck because of components. And in no way am I worrying about looks.

    Why I need it: I get out for camping, hiking, kayaking, backpacking, etc very often, and imo the only way to do it right is to leave pavement, then leave that road, then leave that road. I always take at least 18 gallons of water and 10 gallons of spare fuel, and enough spare parts and tools to build a new vehicle (to give you an idea what I mean by getting off pavement!). Right now I do that and go as far as I can push my 2wd Mitsubishi minitruck (you'd be surprised how far that is!), but it does limit me.

    I plan on using it as my DD, which includes handyman work and hauling around a toddler (and, with any luck, a future sister of his). I also plan on holding onto it for a few hundred thousand miles (I see vehicles as just broken in at 140K). I don't want a show truck or showy truck. It'll be purely utilitarian.

    Don't worry about scaring me with technical talk or details (unless it's exclusively Yota or Taco specific), and don't worry about scaring me with work I need to do. I've built a 400HP 4-cylinder turbo Volvo all on my own, having to make my own parts a third of the time, and half the time having to be creative in adapting other vehicles' parts. The ONLY things I haven't done are rebuild an autobox, or reprogram or build an ECU. Nothing new scares me (except Fords, but that's cuz they're fvcked over rebuilt Dodges designed by drunken retarded tweeker monkeys).

    I'm leaving my question kinda open-ended and general because I want to hear all input, without leaving too much out.

    And since I'm sure I've got you wondering why I would choose an L4 over a V6, it's simple: OBA. I've looked at the available space in the engine bay of the V6 and the L4, and I can easily fit my compressor in the L4. No room in the V6--at least, not with the setup I already have on my Mits, which I'd prefer to keep.

    So, what's best in the aftermarket world versus the factory world? Should I get the fully-loaded V6 model and do only a few very minor bolt-ons? Or should I go with the L4 that will need lots of goodies to get it to the level I need?

    Thanks!
     
  2. Sep 18, 2010 at 1:59 AM
    #2
    rbeezy

    rbeezy Well-Known Member

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    i just bought my very first "Taco", 2011, and im pretty happy with what i got. its the sr5 package with JBL, so i guess its the top-of-the-line sr5. IMO, i would get the fully loaded v6 model and do the minor bolt-ons. but then again, who actually keeps everything stock and not change anything? you'll always find something to change....

    everybody has their own opinions about aftermarket parts. my opinion is if you want to go with an exhaust, go magnaflow. as for the intake, i'd probably go K&N or volant. you probably wouldnt want to chane too much as it would probably void warranty.
     
  3. Sep 18, 2010 at 4:07 AM
    #3
    TACOMA TRD

    TACOMA TRD Well-Known Member

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    Ok...your mind is pretty much made up, however if you get the off road, its more capable 4x4, because you have the locker. Can your compressor be located somewhere else to accomodate the v-6? I think the OR only comes in v-6 short bed.

    Ill leave the tech stuff up to others.
     
  4. Sep 18, 2010 at 10:25 AM
    #4
    Mach375

    Mach375 [OP] Habitual Violator of Wheeling Rule #2

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    Sathington "Alowicious Devadander Abercrombie" Willoughby (but you can call me Mud)
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    '11 DCLB 4x4 TRD Sport
    Too much to list, but enough to get me in trouble. Repeatedly.
    The OR is available in L4 AC, V6 AC/DC (I don't know about SC, as I wasn't interested and didn't pay attention).
    In the DC trim, OR is not available in standard bed--only short bed and long bed :( . OR is available with the L4 only in the AC (again, didn't pay attention to SC).

    My OBA compressor is belt drive (an old York A/C comp). So I have to be able to line it up with a pulley. No room in the V6, plenty of room in the L4.

    I'm def. wanting lockers. My question is whether the factory parts for OR are better than what I can come up with sourcing my own.

    My main point of interest is: is the factory's TRD OR setup (lockers, suspension, etc) going to be equal to or better than getting the basic OR setup (just the TC and front drivetrain) and sourcing my own setup (lockers, suspension, etc)? Basically, is it worth getting stuck with an engine larger than what I want or need in exchange for a ready-to-go OR setup? (knowing it's easier and cheaper to swap brand-new suspension parts and lockers and such than it is to swap a brand-new engine and all its associated matched parts)?

    Something major for me to consider is: If I get the factory TRD OR setup, am I going to find myself upgrading or adding what I just got anyway? Am I going to be finding things later that I really want, which negate the whole point of getting the TRD OR package from the factory?

    So yeah, I def. know what I want. The question is, will what I want be matched better with factory TRD parts, or my own self-sourced parts?
     
  5. Sep 18, 2010 at 2:07 PM
    #5
    DevL

    DevL Well-Known Member

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    The only thing worth it is the ATRAC in 09+ models which IMO is much easier to use than a front and rear ARB. The locker is no better or worse in the rear compared to ARB. If you are not getting the 09+ dont get the OR package.

    Get the tow package... the oil cooler, trans cooler, and plug are worth it. SO is the upgraded alternator. The hitch itself is too low and will get tossed in favor of a rear bumper with integrated hitch. Do NOT forget to ge the tow package... whay more to get all that after the fact.

    I am goign to get an Oasis compresor which is essentially a York with an electric motor to drive it. It will go in the bed area and thus the V6 was open and I took it. The stadards on Tacomas are highly suspect and have many issues. I went auto and am very happy. My last 4 vehciles were standard and the auto is great. Much better offroad too vs my Jeep with stick.

    I had to get the DC so I had to get short bed. If you get the shorter cab you get the additional space for bed. Its the same wheel base and overall length.
     
  6. Sep 18, 2010 at 3:11 PM
    #6
    BGrutter

    BGrutter Well-Known Member

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    Rear-View Camera Mod, Anti-theft Tailgate, No Mud-Flaps, Diff Breather Mod, Color-matched Mirror/Handle covers, Front Valance mod, Phone/GPS/Camera mount, and Illuminated 4x4 Switch ToyTec Ultimate Lift Light Racing UCAs
    Pretty much took the words out of my mouth.

    ATrac does wonders, tow package is a steal from the factory (surprise I know), and you can buy a new compressor and not sacrifice engine.

    This is just my opinion, but is definitely go with either the AC or DCSB. Can I ask why you need the Standard Bed? Kayak?
     
  7. Sep 18, 2010 at 8:34 PM
    #7
    Mach375

    Mach375 [OP] Habitual Violator of Wheeling Rule #2

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    Sathington "Alowicious Devadander Abercrombie" Willoughby (but you can call me Mud)
    Worse than Hell (SoCal)
    Vehicle:
    '11 DCLB 4x4 TRD Sport
    Too much to list, but enough to get me in trouble. Repeatedly.
    Main reason for a standard bed is, well, cargo size. Pick a reason: sleeping with the box closed up (temps, and toddler control), tools, supplies, a few more I'm sure I'm forgetting. I've got a Mits minitruck now with a 6' bed and it's as small as I'd like to go.

    Personally, I'd prefer the AC L4 5spd because it's a smaller overall size, I don't really have much use for a larger engine and I've always been a fan of L4s, and if I wanted four doors I'd buy a Caddy. I'm generally of the reverse mindset of most people: smaller is better, and I don't like having more than I'll need or use.

    DevL: Thanks for the info. This is the kind of stuff I'm looking for.
    So right now, it looks like getting the factory TRD OR package is the way to go, knowing I'm going to be adding armor anyway.
     
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