Should I downsize from 33x12.50 to 265/70 or 32x11.50?

Yeah most 33x12.5s and steel wheels add a lot of weight, and the KO2s are significantly heavier than the old KOs; if you wanna know exactly how much heavier pull one off and compare them on a scale.

I was gunna go 10.5s cuz my 2.7L already felt a tad underpowered and heavier tires would make that much worse, but duratracs 12.5s were are as light or lighter than most 10.5s, (also figure that's related to their sidewall blowout problems; anyway; not necessarily recommending them; it's just what I did)...

So yeah I did 33x12.5x15 duratracs on aluminum wheel; it only added 10lbs from stock for me if I am remembering right; from like 60 to 70lbs; so 16% heavier, and they might even a have a reduction in rotational mass (where the weight is distributed) with the smaller wheel; that's the other component (rotation + translation) to how much energy is needed to get the tire up to speed, so anyway the power loss has been minimal; if any.

Tire/wheels of the same weight and weight distribution, should not impact power significantly regardless of their diameter*, well I mean once you get rolling; the effective higher gearing definitely will slow the intial acceleration from a stop, and make it seem like the gears are further appart ratio wise, which will also be a little hit acceleration, but if they have similar tread patterns power should feel similar... it's just kinda tough to have a bigger tire that Weighs the same as a smaller diameter tire/well combo...(*physics geeks; double check and really look that equation and the situation before challenging me on that... you're probably looking at the equation but not realizing something important )

So yeah the large diameter tire is definitely pushing it with 5 spd and 4.30 rearend... even on the stock I would like it a tad lower, so definitely feel that way with the 33s. If 1st gear wasn't so cranky to get into, I would probably not mind it much. I'm just downshifting out of 5th more often than I use to. 33s on a 4.30s is equivalent to stock on 4:10s; it's fine...Keeping the stocker tires/wheels around for hauling crap with the truck so I don't work the clutch and brakes as hard though...

I assume you have a manual transmission too? 4.30 rearend also?

You could leave the lift on and keep the stock wheels/tires and go to 265/75r16 when those wear out. They should fill up the wheelwell a little more if you want that without significant weight penalty. Just check the weight specs, before buying them.

I am thinking of getting a pair of 10.5 KOs for the front (and keeping 12.5 duratracs for the rear, unless I'm going somewhere I really need 12.5s up front), but need to find out about their relative diameters and if they are close enough to do that.

It would take care of the bit of rubbing I have left , and the duratracs are more like a mud tire in that size (not really what I wanted), so maybe better road manners, I could play around with it each and see their pro & cons... wondering if a 10.5 front & 12.5 rear setup would be great in the snow... (worked great on my old Chevy S10, 2x4, had 30x9.5 front & 31x12.5 rear; that truck did about as well as the Tacoma in 4wd high in 18" deep snow; but in 4wd low, big diffference...)

 

Woah.. Lots to read but lots of good info. I am now kinda looking into the 32x11.50s cause i really like the look of the 15x8 black steelies(i had to grind about 1/8 inch off of the calipers) and I'm on a pretty tight budget. From what I've read, the only downside to going to a 32 from a 33 is a little difference when hardcore offroading (which i will not be doing) and looks (but i would take performance over looks any day)

 

I'll get some pics of my truck here in a few minutes

 

The last pic isnt very good but its the little bit ive done to the pinch weld.

 

I my experience is limited playing around backcountry and logging "roads" in the Sierra foothills most of my life, also deep rutted private roads, all having snow 2 1/2 ft or less. Haven't done much hardcore off-roading or with groups, but planning to. Was into muscle cars, am an amateur mechanic, and did engineering & physics course work in college that helps understand what happening with these changes and some of the tradeoffs but I am no expert.

Bigger tires and lifts mostly create ground clearance and can give more traction and floatation, but do have significant tradeoffs.

They bigger tires create a longer lever arm, that requires more force from the brakes to slow down the truck at the same rate, and loads the axles more in a directions making axle & bearing failures more likely, and as well as increasing loads on the entire suspension. The heavier tires also require more power to achieve the same acceleration, with increased fuel consumption. Having larger tires is kind of like hauling stuff around; it's a little harder on on the suspension, axles, brakes, frame, so will wear stuff out some degree faster.

On-road handling is significantly negatively affected by the higher center of gravity vehicle lifts and larger tires create; some people use negative offset wheels or wheel spacers to compensate with a wider track, but making the truck wider which is trade off to me, and may load the wheel bearings more (I think).

This was my daily driver when I got in '01 until before doing these mods in 2014 (got a Prius), but the project stalled due to some unrelated issues so have only driven it a bit onroad with 33s maybe 500 miles and pulled them shortly after cuz I had some slotted discs that were creating crazy vibration when braking. Finally replaced those discs and pads a month or two ago, just through the duratrac back on the front and truck does feel great again braking (seriously felt like it was going to vibrate apart). I've got to see if there is anything I can do to improve downshifting into 1st; basically have to be nearly stopped... makes the 33s much less enjoyable to have on...

Definitely some people on here that really know what they are doing, and have much more experience & knowledge then me; one thing to remember is everything has tradeoffs; stock is the balance of intended use, longevity, on-road & off-road performance, operating & replacement costs, that were designed specifically for that exact vehicle by Toyota.

Don't buy the line that stock is crap, aftermarket components rarely have the quality or do everything as well as stock components will (there can be exceptions). Also trouble shooting problems is much more difficult on a modified vehicle. Good luck and have fun

 

So what tires and lift are you running now and what has been the best in your opinion?

 

Will look at mine when I get home; I don't have a lift yet, figured it would easier to determine where trimming & hammer was needed without one... I went pretty aggressive trimming and with 5 lb sledge

 

I'm debating whether or not to look into 32x11.50s for the increase in travel within the wheel well and maybe a little more power.

 

I was using those cheap plastic wheel ramps people use for car maintenance; one front and diagonally on the rear; with the tire turned to see where I was rubbing.

32x11.5s will get you half an inch in radius and 1/2" in width (1/2" on each side of the tire, for ~ 1" total); flex it out and look to see how much that would help...

Also compare the tire weights in their specs; of you originals, 33s you have (57 lbs per tirerack), 32x11.5 KO2 listed at 48 lbs, 33x10.5 ko2s listed @ 51 lbs... but these are the claimed weight and may vary... and other brands/models may be lighter...

The reduced diameter will help the gearing a bit.

What rearend ratio do you have, and is this a manual transmission?

 

I honestly dont know the gear ratio i have and im not with my truck right now but its a 2.7l 5-speed 4x4 2001 ext cab if that helps any

 

And it would be much appreciated if anyone with 32x11.50x15s chimes in.

 

I figured out mine by looking at the door tag & what that coorelated with online, then took a couple pics of the speedo & tachometer at a couple difference speeds in 4th gear (1:1), and used calculators online; they agreed saying 4.30... good enough for me; you can also jack one tire just off the ground chalk it and the ground and the driveshaft and the differential case, or count how many times the driveshaft turns for one tire rotation, but 4.10 times and 4.30 times will be hard to tell apart and one of those is probably what you have... might be 3.90(?) or 4.56 though... probably not 4.56 you probably wouldnt be unhappy about these 33s...

 

The speedo thing prolly wouldnt work for me since i have 33s at the moment and it messes up the speedometer

 

Does anyone have any opinions on 32x11.50 vs 33x12.50??? I need some help

 

Just added a poll!!

 

If you got the speedo corrected for the big tires use that tire diameter (32-32.5") in the calc, if you didn't and the speedo is off from the big tires use the original diameter (30.6") in the calcs.

 

Personally I think it's necessary to know what you have (engine, transmission, rearend ratio) to give a good recommendation on tire size (if re-gearing is not a real option)...

 

OME 2.5" and stock wheels tires (if you don't know it's 265/70-16 )

I now have 255/75/17 (32x10x17 ish)

 

How are you liking the "32ish" tires?

 

they are LT so gained some weight, I could definitely tell when all four were on. corrected the speedometer to near exact. the Coopers I got are louder than P but not as loud as muds. I rub on the frame at full lock but that's just the increase tire diameter. We had some rain/ice one day last January and they climbed my tight hilly city streets like a champ, even from a dead stop. overall I am happy with them