Should I have to keep adjusting parking brake?

I re-redid the drum brakes months ago. I have probably adjusted (backed it off/loosened) the parking brake around eight times. (I have about 1in of threaded rod left.) I feel some grabbing when braking. I am not sure if it’s front or rear. Not sure how one knows other than taking stuff apart. I do know the front brakes (rims) seem hot. This seems to decrease though when I adjust the parking brake.
So before I take stuff apart, is it typical to have to adjust the pb this often?
& is there a way to tell if I should start with front or rear (which end is grabbing)?

 

So your front brakes don't really have any adjustment for say. What you'd do there is try to compress the caliper pistons and see if one is seized. Kind of subjective but for reference I can push the pad/piston back into the caliper while it's assembled and bolted up proper. Should go back fairly easy. If not then take the front apart and see if a pin is seized of the caliper piston. If it's piston again then open that bleeder and try again. If it goes easy then it's probably a collapsed line if not then most likely the caliper.

For the rear, I usually chase my drum adjustment a few clicks every 10k tire rotation but at 252'000kms the truck will stand on a hill on the first click of the hand brake. I adjust them by tightening them to the point where I can turn them but the drum wouldn't spin on its own. If I lock the wheel from over adjustment then I back it off 1-2 clicks from there

 

Your rear brakes get adjusted every time you use your parking brake. Or at least every time when there is enough wear for the star wheel adjuster to turn. Therefore, your brake shoes will only get so tight to the drum. They're designed to maintain the proper spec as long as you regularly use the parking brake. The design changed in 03-04 where using the brake pedal itself adjusts the star wheel, not the parking brake. I don't think the rear is your problem, unless something got hung up/incorrectly installed when you did the job.

 

It’s just that I’ll get it to the prescribed 15-ish clicks. The parking brake works. Then I drive, I don’t know, a couple hundred miles. I apply the parking brake & it’s down to 5, maybe 8 clicks & it doesn’t work. So I adjust it again. Wash, rinse, repeat…. I mean I’ve gone from about 3in of thread down to 1in. Pretty soon, I’m going to be out….

 

Classic Kristi thread

Don't worry about the clicks. The only thing you need to worry about is if the star nut continues to advance allowing the shoes to be over tightened. In theory, it shouldn't happen, but it does, especially if you try to get to those 15 clicks after they are adjusted. Just check to make sure the rear brakes aren't over tightened- lift the rear axle off the ground (obviously secure the front wheels) and spin the rear wheels, if you feel drag or excessive drag, they are overtightened.

I am having an issue where my drivers side star nut is advancing past the correct tightness- it's happened twice now. Only thing I can think of is that the bell crank is fouled up and not releasing back enough after I disengage the parking brake.

 

Ok, ok. I get the get over the clicks thing. However, it’s not working with 5 clicks or 8…. Or whatever it is that is not up there. I mean I would think as the shoes get worn one would be tightening the cable, not loosening it.
& my star wheel did the same thing, except that because it was getting hung up, it was not advancing. I ended up with a set of barely touched shoes. That was the re-redo. Come to find the bracket that comes with the kit was bent. I swapped everything out & it was a little better. Still getting hung up every other click. Whelp, I learned about the springs & how there’s a left & a right. Just so happened I had a right spring on the left side. That seemed to do it.

 

So here’s the left rear. Let’s see if I can explain it - for about 1/4 of the tire, if I grab it at 9 & 3, it sounds like this (vid below). Turn it a pinch, grab at 9 & 3, etc. Seems to coincide with the background drum on shoe noise you can hear as I advance the wheel that “pinch”. Like I stated, it goes on for about 1/4 of the wheel/drum. For the other 3/4 of the wheel, this noise is gone & no drum on shoe. Does the drum need to be turned? & by the way, when “slight drag” is referred to, is it that drum on shoe noise? Because if it is, I’m getting none of that on the right & obviously, only 1/4 of the left drum is making this contact.
Also, when I give the wheels a spin, i get about 3/4 of a turn. Guess that’d make sense if they’re getting hung up on that spot.

https://youtu.be/0Um7exQU61o?si=GfNl9T7nIM0PTNQx

 

Rarely are drums perfectly round. Add to the fact the shoes float (kind of) and the drum bore on the hub is never perfect either.
Add all that together and and you will never get a drum that doesn;t have some spots that drag more and some spots that drag less.

I never go by the 15 clicks. I mound the wheel, adjust to a slight drag, go inside the truck and press the brake pedal a few times, then recheck drag.
Sometimes it can take a couple adjustment do it that way. But pressing the brakes helps "center and align" all the parts and shoes in the drum.

You might also check and see if your parking brake is stretched. It can "click" alot when pulled. But not hold well.

Also, when you are adjust by "clicks" you are talking about the drum adjust, right?

 

That's what ultimately matters!

 

yes. Drum adjust.

 

Just sucks because I did as was suggested & it seemed good for a bit. Purposefully got them to a little under tightened, drove for a bit & then adjusted. The idea being over tightening is NG.

so I should not be concerned about that squeak or whatever you want to call it when I wiggle (weird word) the wheel? Happens at any point between 12:00-4:00.

& would someone please give me pointers as to slight drag? Are we talking that the wheel should rotate a full turn when spun? Or should I hear the drum & shoes rub?

 

Slight drag = Still able to turn the tire with ONE hand while hearing a drag.
If it takes 2 hands to turn the tire, it's too tight.

 

ok. Then mine are under tightened. The only time I’m hearing any drag is that one 1/4 part of the rotation on the right wheel.
So I guess I best look at the fronts since they’ve been doing the work.

Im not sure why I’m not getting this. I mean if my shoes are not adjusted tight enough, when I set the parking brake, shouldn’t that tighten (adjust) them?
At install all the parts seemed to work fine. I manually advanced them during the install & then later there was some advancement via the parking brake. Now there is none despite being undertightened. Is it that, even though the pb is supposed to adjust the shoes it shouldn’t be relied on?
& lastly, could it be the cable? How do you know when it has stretched & should be swapped out? Is it simply a matter of when you run out of thread?

 

Question about your 252,000 hand brake reference - do you mean that due to the age of the cable (being stretched)?
& am I understanding this correctly, you tighten just to the point that you can’t turn the drum, however, once the wheel is installed, you can still turn it?

 

Since the 50's and 60's when it was all drum brakes,,, my dad taught me to adjust by spinning the tire by hand and set the drag to about 3/4 to 1 turn with the drag being heard. Clear as mud, best I can put in words?
I set my PB by the shop manual instructions, works great, keeps them adjusted to the next time I do the brake fluid flush and pull the rear drums to get the dust out.
I know it works good because I can park on a incline and set the PB and it holds good, and I know it releases since I "test" it every now when coming to a slow roll and set the PB and the truck stops great. Then push the truck by hand in the driveway and it rolls great.
I set my truck in neutral every time I stop and set the PB every time, keeps it adjusted up.

 

For my hand brake reference, I was just trying to say that with my park brake pulled one click the truck doesn't roll.

And ya for brake adjustment I tend to lean on the tighter side of things so with the wheel off I tighten the adjuster until the drum can be turned by hand while pushing it toward the axle but if I remove my hands while spinning, it will not free wheel. With the wheel on if I give it a "price is right" spin then it'll spin freely with the weight of the tire around it. Wheel off and it will only spin while you're physically spinning it.

It's been years since trades school so I apologize if my terminology is wrong but these drums are a leading-trailing setup which for the topic of discussion basically just means the anchor point is on the bottom and star wheel on top and in turn the shoes both go out in separate directions into the drum. This style (should) adjust when ever the park brake is used. The other kind is called dual-servo where the anchor for the shoes is on the top and star wheel on the bottom, leading shoe pushes into the drum from the top, transfers that force down the bottom through the star wheel and wedges the bottom of the other shoe into the drum. This style should self adjust when you reverse and brake decently hard.

Purpose of me saying all that is just to say the self adjustment isn't perfect and manual adjustment every now and then is necessary for optimal performance. The self adjusters are better than none at all but not perfect

 

So I removed the left wheel, turned it about 1/4 & reinstalled. That weird noise is now gone. It was weirding me out because to me, it meant something was moving or rubbing. I had my tires replaced at Walmart because they have the Cooper specials. 2 1/2 hrs & they pretty much started right away. They used the sticky weights. I got on the highway & it felt awful. Went back. The guy said they put the wrong kind of weights on? I do this? because I’ve always had sticky weights unless on the inner. 2 freakin hrs! Anyways, still feels a little off. I’m wondering if he somehow wonkied, yes wonkied, the wheel when he reinstalled it.

 

Ok. So wheel off, if I give the drum a 2 handed spin, it should not move once I let go of it, correct?
Then wheel on, I should be able to do a one handed spin & get slight drag, yes?
If so, the drum does keep spinning about 1/4 turn. There is evidence, in the form of brake dust, that contact has been made. So at least that’s something.

 

The only time I spin the drum is to get the initial “adjustment”.
Once I hear just a slight drag on the drum spinning by hand, I mount the wheel and do the rest.
You’ll never get enough leverage by using the drum. You’ll think it is “tight”. But once you mount the wheel, it will turn easy. (Physics, leverage).

Correct

More like a 1/16 to an 1/8 of a turn is how I do it.

Now, let me explain why I do it this way.
And how it does cause “slightly” premature wear to the shoes.

1. My father was a tech back in the 80’s. (So, that how I was taught. And how I do it)
A little tight is better than a little loose.
The shoes will “wear until there is not drag”. (And it’s a very small amount. Negligible).

2. The closer the shoe is to the drum, the faster it will brake.

3. It’s a pain in the ass “backing off the adjuster” with a brake spoon on these trucks. (And most vehicles)
Limited room to work in the slot on the back plate.

No way I’m adjusting the drum to full lock up, and backing it off 15 clicks.
15 clicks……who are they kidding. Not on my back in the driveway. And good luck counting “15 clicks”.

Drag, and go.

 

Ok. So I was doing that with the wheel on the other side. Thinking that’s why the drum side kept going.
Now both wheels are back on. I’m hearing some drag, but there’s about 1 1/2 -2 rotations with a one handed spin. I’m guessing that’s too much.