Should I have to keep adjusting parking brake?

All have been cleaned & lubed & yes, bled about a month ago.
Here’s my thinkin’
I had done the rears when I did the rear axle bearings, two? yrs ago. unbeknownst to me, the star wheel was not advancing on one side. I drove like this up until four? months ago when my rear axle started leaking. When I took everything apart, I saw that the shoes on that side were untouched. Meanwhilst my fronts must have been taking a hit. I can say I didn’t notice much difference probably because my rears had already been in rough shape prior to the initial axle bearings being replaced.
Anyway, now I can say that both the rears are working. Evidence being shoe wear. The fronts I just cleaned up.

My question is, if my drums feel hot, does that mean the rears are overtightened? I am guessing this is correct & this is why I’m feeling pulsating. & I’ll have to see what I can find about what % the rears are supposed to be set at for the valve. I have had it installed for years, however, as I just explained, up until recently, I did not have fully functional rears so the % it was set at was not a factor.

Ha-ha! Then back to the parking brake. Where this all started…. Definitely getting training regarding these rears…. All good& I’m very grateful to everyone….

 

Easier way i've found to isolate pulsing from rear or front is to drive down the road and slowly and carefully pull the hand brake out with the handle twisted for a quick release. You'll have to pull it decently out. If you feel it shaking then the problem is the drums, if you don't then its the fronts.

If it's the fronts then put a dial indicator on the front rotors about an inch from the edge and check your runout. Maybe a 0.004" runout tops or so. If you have more than that then remove the rotor, clean the rotor and hub it sits on with a wire brush until it is FULLY shiny metal. Then just put the disk on with a few lug nuts tight to keep it firmly on the hub and measure runout again.

Remove and reinstall the rotor in all the positions on the hub (6 positions) until you find the position with the least runout. When you do, reinstall your caliper, wheel, etc and go for a test drive

 

Drums being hot is kind of subjective... if you drive around in the city then it's potentially normal or if you do a panic stop then check then it's potentially normal but if you're just cruising on the highway and glide into a stop then it's not normal... what was the drive prior to checking the temperature

 

What @joba27n suggested is all good info for helping isolate the problem. I’ll add that your rear drums may be warped or have slightly uneven wear that is now present in the form of pulsating brakes. If you isolate the rears as the problem, I would get the drums resurfaced.