Should I I pay these fees for a new Tacoma?

Hi All, this is my first post. I'm looking for a new 2014 4X4 Access Cab, and have been negotiating over e-mail with a Phoenix dealership 120 miles from me. What I want to pay is invoice, and the last quote i got wat for that plus two fees that don't show up on the KBB "Fair Puchase Price"

$400 Doc fee (documentation) To me paperwork is part of doing business and I can't think af any other business in the world that charges for the paperwork they have to do to sell something.

$600 TDA (Toyota Dealership Association) It seems like this can't be avoided, but maybe not?

Any advice based upon personal experience would be appreciated.
Kevin

 

I've always had the doc fee on every vehicle I've bought. Never seen the TDA one.

 

TDA?

Havent heard of it either

 

WTF is a TDA fee? It's not your fault that the dealer wants to be part of Toyota. Why should you pay for it? The documentation fee is pretty much set in stone.

 

Just found this.


http://www.realcartips.com/newcars/033-car-dealer-advertising-fee.shtml

Apparently it's an advertising fee. Wtf? For a Tacoma? They don't need advertising.

 

$400 for documentation? That's usually around just $80 for documentation fees. Title and registration is no more than $400 for a Tacoma. TDA is just bs. Go find another dealer.

 

Just read that , im thinking the samething smh

 

$400 is normal around here for Toyota dealers for document fees. It's printed on the contract before they print what your buying on it.

I vote tell them to shove the TDA up their ass.

 

Having just purchased my Tacoma 3 weeks ago here in Arizona I did Not pay the TDA!

I also did Not pay the $400 Doc Fee either, BOTH were there and I simply refused.

This was a used 2007 purchased from the same dealer 7 years prior so they already made their money initially and were essentially "Double Dipping' me.

TDA was waived and they stated that as long as I purchased that evening ( Which I did ) that the Doc fee would be waived. They simply just gave me $400 more on my trade in and called it a wash.

The economy sucks! You're the customer so walk in with your balls hanging out and swinging their faces with out a care in the world ! ! ! Set your terms and hold firm ( Dammit Man You're Driving 100+ Miles As It IS ) because you and your money will go elsewhere.

Also, if you can swing it pay the 'Essential' fees and taxes (plates, registration Etc) out of pocket or credit card (when they ask if there is money down tell them yes and pay the fees, if you're putting down money anyway make sure the fees and such are paid by your down payment) as it makes no sense to finance these fees over the Full Term of your loan and pay all that interest ! ! !

Now go out there at T-Bag some sales associates . . . .

 

Add me to the BS list. I have paid doc. fees but in the range of 40 to 150 dollars but they were legit fees charged by the states to generate a title and were disclosed up front. Advertising fees are a cost of business. So what's the next tack on? Sales persons commission, percentage of the utility bill.... I'd "walk" without the courtesies of return call cause obviously the think you are a rube.

 

More than likely if you wait 'til the end of the month, those 'fees' will mysteriously disappear. I made my offer by email, had a deal before I showed up at the dealership, and did not pay more than we agreed to. On the last day of the month. No telling about some dealers, though.

 

All I am interested in is the out the door price. They can write it up anyway they want and add anything they want. The final number is all that really counts. When I was buying mine in Feb. I just pushed the paperwork back to them and said not good enough. I did not give them a figure to hit. I even told them to give me a good enough price to make me want to buy it today without me stating a price. When I was happy I bought.

 

Thanks for the replies everyone. I was pretty specific about what I wanted, and supposedly this truck was headed to Nevada from the Baja factory and they magically diverted it to Phoenix to save me the $140 transport fee when I said I might just wait a while. The internet sales guy has some time invested, and I'm willing to walk away since I can hang out in my daughter's pool until they agree to my terms. I am already set up to talk to the GM who said they're "pretty much all in" and will see him first thing to cut through the BS. We'll see..

 

Doc fee around here is about 150 not 400. I had a Ford dealer complain to me one time that they would not get the factory rebate because the truck was a dealer trade. I asked why that was my problem? Never heard another peep on it. Never heard a off TDA fee but have seen advertising fee. Dealers around here try to make their money off nitrogen and vehicle shield. I refuse to pay either.

 

It costs $6.50 here to clerk a title at the clerk of courts, yet a common doc fee here is $200-250.

They send some retired old dude that they are paying $12 / hr to, to the courthouse once a week with the paperwork on the 20 cars the dealership sold that week. Takes him probably an hour to do all that, an hour drive time, $15 in gas. Even if you pay all that, you're still under $50; especially if you split the cost between the 19 other buyers.

The majority of the doc fee is a profit for the dealership. And I have no problem with that, I mean, car sales is a cutthroat business. Especially new cars, and with internet pricing pretty much leveling the playing field, a lot of the profit margin is gone. Dealers make their money as they can and fees added to the sale are one way to do that. As an example, locally, they are advertising a new '14 Access Cab 4WD for $24,500. How much profit margin is there, really, on that; especially if you get a guy who walks in with cash or personal financing, and then tries to work a few hundred bucks more on the deal?

What I have a problem with is the bullshit. Don't shove a doc fee up my ass and act like it's not a moneymaker for you. Tell me straight up what it is without the smoke and mirrors. I'm okay with you making money; in my little utopia, the perfect deal is one where the dealer makes a little and I pay a fair price.

A lot of people only see the cost of the unit though, and they will relentlessly beat up the dealer to get that thing for as little as possible, or will shop online forever looking only at the prices listed (which don't ever include extra fees). Bullshit fees exist because of those guys; they make a deal that garners next to no profit for the dealer so the dealer slips in the ancillary fees to make something back.

 

I've never heard of TDA either.... now T&A, that I have.

 

Be polite about it, but set the amount you will pay and stick to it. Be patient. Every sales office has a board with a list of salesman that tracks how much product they pushed that month. Get a feel for who the new guy is, and wait till the end of the month. That guy, he'll do whatever it takes to make that deal happen come the 30th. If you present a reasonable offer, they will take it 99.9% of the time under those circumstances. Have your finances in order and bargain as a "cash" customer. They don't know that you have a check from your bank in your pocket or a stack of hundo's. Again, don't be a dick, be cool and set the salesman at ease and they'll work their magic for you. Don't be in a rush. If you are in a hurry you will get hosed.

 

Cash makes no difference. It has zero relevance regarding vehicle value. In fact it might have the opposite effect. The dealership may have been looking to make up some cash on your deal via finance. Plus they can shop your credit and passably get you a better rate than the one bank you went to. A good dealership won't shot gun your credit either.

Back to those fees- sounds like bs.

 

Good point. I was thinking of a purchase I made at a small lot. They were hungry and cash meant a payout time now for the sales dude...but I could see how at a big dealership they dgaf about cash.