Should I use Rustoleum to prevent my roof from getting worse?

Rattlecan > rusty roof

 

For what 1 month.

 

Sand that crap down to bare steel, primer and paint, you will be fine for a couple of years.

 

I have the same issue on my 07, it's getting worse and worse ever since it started being parked outside. I have been doing a little research on how to DIY and found a few videos that will help. If you are going to rattlecan it then check out this video:

https://www.youtube.com/embed/Hj9VqSnT-bs


I have also thought about wrapping it but just to wrap the roof it would be $600+ and I need my hood and fender flares done as well so I may be going this route too. I mean if you do it right it won't look that bad and should last a few years til you can have it professionally done if you even plan to.

 

The vinyl wrap on my roof only cost me $260 from a reputable shop in San Diego using 3M materials.

 

That's pretty good! Is that them prepping it also?

 

Yep, dropped it off cleanish with no roof rails. They prepped and installed.

 

The only place I've ever even called was a ceramic coating and wrap place in Austin and they wanted $600 just for labor and materials for the roof It was like $3k to do the whole truck and cap I thought about trying it myself but the weather isn't really right for it outside right now.

 

Maybe I'll just drive the Taco to San Diego for my training trip in March instead of flying lol

 

Literally just did the same to my roof. Had a few spots of surface rust. Sanded them all down to metal. Primed and painted it with that exact paint. Holding up just fine. Yeah it’s not perfect but it’s keeping the moisture out and who ever sees your roof anyway?

 

I called a few places, I got a few in the 5-600 range but I went to Tint World, try them and see what they say.

 

Local trade school has an auto body shop but this person I know was on the waiting list for like a year and a half....

 

If you aren't comfortable doing it - don't. But if you have taken on projects before that challenged you and you are willing to do the research, be methodical and not cut corners - you can do this. If this is your DD and you have to have as little down time as possible and you need someone to just take care of it - then the question becomes how much do you want to spend. I like the idea a lot of these guys are throwing out with getting the rust cleaned up and having it vinyled.

 

I've got a similar issue on my 07. I'm getting some clear coat failure. I think I've watched this video a dozen times. We are about to move to a house that has a really nice detached metal two bay garage. Once there, I plan on attacking this. I currently don't have any place to put the truck out of the weather.

 

Same here, I have some garage room but with the truck lifted it does not leave much head room to work on the roof. I am thinking more and more about wrapping it though instead.

 

@bloggerstomper it really depends on how in depth you want to go and how much time you have. It is completely possible for you to accomplish this if you want, but being as it is your roof, you'll be moving a step stool around a lot unless you have that fancy portable scaffolding. The video that @ryanbitt posted is an excellent starting point and covers basically what you'd be doing but you'd be doing more of it. Typically the paint on the roof is much thinner than the paint of the rest of the body but that shouldn't matter in this process.

You'll start by removing the plastic roof molding otherwise you'll have to mask that off and it makes it more difficult to blend around the radius. The supplies you'll want are 800 grit sand paper and 1000 grit sand paper (you can use 900 grit or ignore this and just use 800 grit for the final sanding, up to you). You'll want about 4 maybe 5 cans of color match paint. 1 can of automotive primer of your choice and 1 can of clear uv resistant clear coat. Buffing pad and rubbing compound of your choice.

Remove the rust from the roof by whatever is easiest for you to do such as light sanding. I would wet sand in straight lines due to the roof striations for this step and just from the photo you posted, shouldn't take you very long as it looks like superficial surface rust. That big dark spot towards the back looks to be the worst but it shouldn't be very difficult work to take that rust out. It is important that you wet sand because you don't want to introduce deeper scratches and it'll help the surface stay smooth. Once you get the rust off, you'll want to surface clean and wipe down with mineral spirits to clean off any grime. Take the time now to mask off your windows and around the edges of your roof where you don't want over-spray. Follow the video that was posted about heating the roof panel up and apply the primer to exposed metal. Primer wont stick as well to the painted surface or existing clear coat and you shouldn't need much. Let it set up for about 30 minutes to 1 hr before you apply a light coat of color matched paint. Give that first thin coat enough time to dry which should be about 2 to 4 hours depending on temperature and humidity. Spray paint has a tendency of developing an "orange peel"-like texture if you apply heavy so you'll want to keep the coats thin. Keep the rattle can Wet sand with 800 between coats of paint. You'll want to do this at least 4 times. The more you do, the smoother the final coat will be.

Once you're satisfied with the amount of paint on the hood and after it's tacked up, you'll want to start with at least 3 coats of clear coat. Do what you did with the color paint but instead of using the 800 grit, use the 1k grit. Light coats, wet sand between coats. Repeat until satisfied. After it's dried up, you'll want to use the buffing pad and rubbing compound to smooth out any minor imperfections. A light touch and easy movements with the buffing pad. Let the pad do the work just don't hold it in one spot for a long time, keep the pad moving. Finish it off with a wax and polish to shine. Rattle can may take up to 48 hrs to fully cure so try to plan around it.

It's a lot of work so it depends on you if the juice is worth the squeeze.

Bottom line: Remove rust with wet sand, prime exposed metal - let tack before first color coat, light wet sand between coats. Repeat at least 4 times but the more the better. Wet sand prior to clear coat with lighter grit and repeat at least 3 coats following the more is smoother rule and final touch with light buffing compound. Wax to smooth mirror shine.

-J

 

I used the roll on truck liner from Rust-Oleum. 3 years later and no issues. Gives it a texture finish as well.

 

When I rebuilt my axle almost a year ago, i sanded rust off, light sanded the rest, then put a coat of Rust Reformer, let dry for 24hrs, then Enamle, let dry for 24hrs.

Year later, still going strong! (Some discoloration from bleeding brake fluid onto it , but for sure no rust or chips)

 

Thank you so much for that detailed explanation!

My main DIY issue is that since I've never done it and it's my first ever car I am terrified of messing up. I have done other DIY things but nothing so major. I just need to get in the right mindset and do it soonish (I'll probably wait a little longer when the temperatures go up).

But again, thank you immensely!