Show me your shell!

They are Yakima towers. The rails on the camper are generic can fit yaki or Thule towers. Not sure what the Yakima towers are called

 

Newest (Control Tower):


Older (Rail Rider):


Oldest(Rail Rider 1b):

 

I'm still debating whether to get the shell with tracks installed (for $150) or skipping that and just getting some combination of feet/towers that I can bolt directly to the shell (it can't be that hard to do). It wouldnt' be as versitile as having tracks that let you adjust the location of the racks, but how often is that really needed? Is there a set up like this with permanently affixed feet and easily removable towers?

If I went with rails I've looked at what in the current line-up of Thule and Yakima products are compatible but it would be good to know what of their discontinued options would work so I can look for something used. That I can't figure out.

 

Get rails , then you can customize in the future with products like the Prinsu rack

 

OZ is right. Tracks are way better. It gives you way more options and, in my opinion, you can adjust the distribution of weight.

I have 4 bars on my canopy to distribute the weight of my RTT. To most people it's still debatable if the shell can hold the RTT but I am fairly confident in the setup that I have.

 

Yea I got the tracks, and Yakima racks on a Rebel snug top that has,flat SUV rear style window, sliding cabin window, and insulated carpet. I looked on Craig's list for months and finally had to give up the search to pay full retail. 2000$

 

Okay, I see the wisdom. THanks for the feedback. any thoughts on Thule vs. Yakima? They both seem to offer a simlar set of options. I was kinda surprised at how expensive they are. at least 2x what I paid for the OEM rack on the cab for a full set of feet, towers and bars. That's why I'd like to look for something used, but trying to figure out what might work with their current rail systems isn't easy.

 

Looks like the makings of the Sin Bin.....

 

I didn't get them installed and now I am sorry. They are very easy to install but they will void the warranty if you do it yourself. If it is used I guess it really doesn't matter. And for the couple extra bucks I think the tracks are a better choice cause they are more versatile.

 

Turn you truck into a station wagon.

 

Some people just can't grasp the concept that caps are removeable

 

I know for a fact that Thule and Yakima fit on the same rail system. I have had both and I very much prefer Yakima but everyone is different. I bought my fist set used for $100. For the second set I picked up a cheap chevy canopy that had a rack set for $300 then sold the canopy without the rack set for $300 so it only cost me my time.

Each one of the Yakima items that I pictured above (control tower, Rail Rider and Rail Rider 1) will work for the tracks that Yakima and Thule use. I use the Control Towers because they sit lower and they are the newest model. They are very easy to install and remove if you keep the landing pads in place.

I installed my tracks and racks myself. All it takes is a little but of patience and assistance from a buddy to get the bolts inside tight. Most installers don't care about your vehicle so they don't care if they mess up. I prefer to install what I can, when I can.

 

Station wagons are bad ass. Sadly they've been displaced by the gratuitous SUV.

but I digress...

 

Good info. Thanks so much!

 

I went with Yakima on my '01 on artificial rain gutters I installed myself. Like Yakima except that some things like to spin on the round bars. Hully Rollers on the back would rotate down when I pu the kayak on at a steep angle. Could have put a screw thru to hold it if I really wanted to. J bars would spin when I didn't have a boat on.

Leer only installs Thule racks, and the factory installed rail system price was pretty reasonable, so I went ahead and bought it. Yakima accessories fit fine on the Thule bars, and they don't spin.
I've seen Thule bars sag over time so that may become a cosmetic issue. I probably won't move the feet around so the rail adjustability probably won't be a big benefit. I've also got the factory rack on the cab, so I can distribute heavy or long loads
If you want to save money, I'd suggest artificial rain gutters installed yourself, and Yakima rails if you're not going to use accessories which can spin.
IF you're going to install yourself, give the new shell some time and check it out carefully for leaks first - better to get any issues with window leaks dealt with under warranty without any questions about your work.
Mine had leaks around both Windoors and one of the rack mounting bolts, which the dealer took care of quickly and professionally.

 

I just got my shell with Yakima racks installed today. I love it!
2014 DCLB 4x4 SR5
ARE Z series shell with Yakima roof racks

All stock except for the camper shell and the Westin black step bars. I've had the truck for 21 days. Its my favorite vehicle I have ever owned.

 

Here's my junk...
Anyone have issue with the cap hitting the cab whilst wheelin'? I do!
It's an ARE. I've had two other 1st gens with caps and no issues like this.
I'm going to move the shell back a little and see what happens otherwise it's time to box the frame baby!! ...nah, jk.

 

Shell is too close to the cab if it touches

 

I bought a leer from a dealer, and while leer doesnt come with yakima, but the dealer swapped the thule for yakima no extra charge.
No experience with the Thule, but yakima just takes a turn of the key to take off the racks, which i do at the end of trips. I just leave the feet on the rail so my g/f doesnt "adjust them" again.

 

So how far back do I go? I don't want to throw a cat between the tailgate and liftgate.. lol.