Show me your shell!

Color matched mine, I'm much happier with it now versus the white. Anyone looking to paint their shell, check out ERMB's thread on how to spray paint with quality results.

 

Thanks for the shameless plus...here's the link too

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...nt-with-quality-results.400182/#post-11113741

 

Picked up a Leer 100R/ 100RCC off CL.



I have some questions.
Do I have an 100RCC or a 100R?



What can I use to seal the front corners?





Also need to seal the tailgate.

 

Can a I see a picture of the interior roof space? That will show me what I need to tell you.

Or, check out this thread for the interior difference of the roof.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/leer-w-reinforced-roof.449153/#post-13297242

 

Leer 100R. Not the 100RCC

 

The metal tag misled me! Lol

 

No worries. I have the same thing on my tag (100R/100RCC) but I have the 100RCC.

 

http://www.google.com/search?sclien...4.tablet-gws..4.10.2430...0i131k1.D5MjDqOwKPw

 

Thanks, I'm asking from people that have done it, what seals have they used, pros... cons....tips...tricks etc.

 

You have to get the thick seal and put another layer or two of the regular foam seal or just build up the center section with several layers of the foam sealing tape to get kill the gap. Some people have also used some silicone caulk. Also make sure your front clamp is as far foward as it can go.

 

My 2003 with ARE MX topper.



My 1999 with two diferrent ARE toppers.

 

Though I might post a couple of pics of the new rig loaded up for a week down at Hatteras chasing Pompano...
The wooden rack on the top is locked onto the cross bars, and the lid locks, to keep Johnny Quick Fingers from the Surf Rods. All of the rods get locked up there at the end of the day to keep them safe overnight...and it comes off when I get home.
The back rack opens like a gate for access to the inside of the truck, and is also locked to the hitch, and also comes off when I get home.
I built the top rack out of mahogany and poplar. It has several coats of various sealers and stains on it, but for the last few years all I do is give it a good once over with cutting board oil a few times a year, and it stays looking great.
The back rack I did most of the measuring and cutting on and then had a couple of local welders weld it up for me.
Both have been through plenty of modifications over the years.
This year I thought to add the garden sprayer to the rack to have some fresh water on hand to rinse reels and gear (and Me!) after a day in the salt. It was a great cheap & easy addition, and I just kept re-filling it from the ice melt from the coolers...
Cheers!

 

Leer 100XR with vented windoors.

 

I don't suppose someone has a picture of how they wired up their cap? Is it a splice into the tail light wiring scenario? I want ideas, somewhere on TW someone geared up a switch to their tailgate so their LED strips came on when the tailgate was opened.

 

I ran a heavy duty extension cord (ends cut off) from an auxiliary fuse block under to the hood to the back curbside pillar (heavy green cable in the pick) which actually gives me two more wires I can use as hot wires. (Future expansion, maybe a fridge?) The wiring for now looks like hell, and I did use far too heavy of wire. With all of my lights on I am only pulling 2.06 amps (I still need to get a 2.5 amp fuse to replace the 5 amp that is in there now). If you look near the bottom of the shock mount for them win-door you can see small black tube held on by a piece of sticky tape (again just temporary). It's just a pice of small PVS pipe painted, but inside I have two diodes hot glued. Before I get in to that, the picture of the "wire hub":



You can see pictures of the lights here: Show me your shell! Its actually page 238. The idea is:

1) When all doors are closed, all lights off
2) When all doors are open, all lights on
3) When the back door is open, all interior lights are on, the back door light is on, the side win-door lights are off.
4) When one side win-door is open, only the win-door light, and the lights on that side of the bed are on, everything else is off.

I used the cheep magnetic switches for alarms for switching. By switching on the ground side rather than the hot side, the 500mW switches aren't getting over loaded as only 0.4volts and around 3 mW are actually going through them when the lights are on. You can see the bottom of one of the switches in the pic above. I mounted the switch to the window frame and the magnet is sticky mounted and zip tied to the shock. When I open the window the shock moves the magnet far enough away to trigger the switch.

 

I made this guy an offer, hopefully he takes it (cause i'll still have to get it paint matched). Can anyone tell me what Leer model this is? Thanks!

[edit] Ok, after looking through here I finally came across some similar, this is a Leer 180 right? He's asking $600, I offered $400, what's the highest you guys would pay for it considering I still have to match the paint?

http://daytona.craigslist.org/pts/5806884836.html

 

Even with a respray the $600 is worth it, but if you can get it for less I say go for it.

 

600$+ paint match seems a good price, I paid my 180 1000$ plus paint match... Because canada is overprice! But like Thelgord said, the less you can pay the better it is!

 

Craigslist find, ARE CX, $250. Thing is flawless. Very happy and I have a vinyl overlay idea to tie it all together without painting. Gonna go see my local vinyl guy this week. That's my neighbor, he drove shotgun to help me load her up.