Show me your shell!

Got this done a couple weeks ago but haven't had the chance to share it yet. Stainless sides with aluminum cross bars. Worked out fantastic for mounting my awnings, Maxtrax and hauling our RV5 and some other gear the last few weekends.

 

It’s similar but it’s actually unistrut. I wanted the the unistrut instead of t slot alum.
I added tracks on the inside for max strength

 

Solid. A heavier setup for sure but with increased durability.

 

Interesting. Have you thought of taking it a step further and mounting some downward supports to connect to the Track System? to support more weight.

 

I thought about it for a little bit. The cap already has the reinforced roof from Leer as well. If I was putting a large RTT on it I might consider it more but for what I carry up there I don't see it ever being an issue.

Plus. I am building a flatbed and canopy over the winter. The cap and rack will all end up for sale.

 

Hi All

I picked up a used Leer 100XR For my 2017 Tacoma - plan is to put the tent on it in the summer with a Sherpa Equipment Rack. Already have bed stiffeners installed from my previous setup.

I'm struggling to figure out the mounting bolts and how they should properly be placed and torqued. Online I'm seeing photos of Leer bolts that seem to perfectly fall flat with the washer.
When I tighten mine down, it seems only the edge of bolt head (on the outward size) is catching the washer. Can any confirm if the full head of the washer is supposed to sit flat on the washer?

I've also heard of the shell shifting... Could one not flip the bolt so the threads come up through the fiberglass and add a nyloc on top? I can't fit the nyloc with the bolt going downwards as it contacts the utility rail.

Finally, any torque specs for these thing once (or if) I can get it right?
Thanks

 

Post pics and we can tell you if ours looks the same. As far as torque specs, I have none to give but mine are pretty tight but be careful you don't crack your shell snugging them down. They don't need to be super tight for them to do their job.

 

Sounds like you're on the right track. Mine was professionally installed new at a reputable shop. No leaks after a year. I did call them recently and asked if there was a torque spec because I go around and make sure everything is still tight every now and then. They said NO torque spec

 

Find a nyloc nut to fit the bolt and run it up snug.

 

The nyloc would contact the utility rail before contacting the Leer mounting metal bracket?

 

Most likely. Might be able to get it all the way to metal t-bracket but it'll probably marr up the rail. If you really want a nut on the base you can always add a washer and snug it up to the rail itself. I dont think there is a need for it though, mine haven't backed out one bit over the past year. I just double check mine every couple months to make sure all is well. So far so good, no snugging needed



There is a gap between rail and bolt but not much

 

Any more info on the mounts you made up? Digging that idea!

 

You could use a sleeve like from the leaf spring bushings. Space it further down and away from the bed rail.

 

So is this the un-official BS thread? I've got a mess I could use some help unravelling, mostly because I'm at the beginning of this particular path on my truck.

What I have and what my current goals are:

• I have a SnugTop Rebel with Yakima Rails already installed
• Want to eventually run RTT (looking at the GFC SuperLite ~80lbs) but that's down the road some
• Friend going to be selling me Rhino Rack 270 Awning in the near-er future.

Problems:

• Has anyone mounted Rhino Rack roof rails to Yakima roof tracks?
• Has anyone mounted a Rhino Rack awning (or something similar) to Yakima rails?
• Has anyone mounted a Rhino Rack awning to a Prinsu Top Rack?
• I've seen prices for Rhino Rack and Yakima rails all over the place, what is the general price for just two bars and the bits that mount them to the tracks generally run?
• I don't need nor want to get new tracks since I've already got some installed.

I was originally wanting to get Prinsu front and rear, but the price has made it very unattractive and I'm not entirely sure I have a need for a rack on the roof of the cab anymore at this point, so I figured bars for the shell would be cheaper and more than enough.

If I go Yakima rails, then I need to get an adapter for the Rhino Rack awning ($34). The problem is that the adapter states it's for "...your square bar Thule or Yakima racks" and Yakima doesn't have any square bars (?)

If I go Rhino rails, then I need to get a base adapter kit ($46~) in order for them to work with the Yakima tracks.

EDIT: I guess writing this out lead me to the solution I needed, but if anyone else could offer their insight, experiences and advice, I'd still appreciate it.

EDIT2: Weight limits is a concern with just the bars. If I do multiple bars, does the weight limit go up? I'm mostly concerned about when I'm (eventually) sleeping in the tent up there, so dynamic loads won't be as much of an issue when the vehicle is moving. The SnugTop has the Sportsman's upgrade, so it can handle ~600lbs, but the Rhino Rack Vortex bars seem rated for ~220lbs, which isn't a lot when you consider my big fat *** will be up there, and god forbid a lady friend.

 

I didn't read your whole post but the rails on leer and are ... whether they are Yakima or Thule are interchangeable. I guess what I'm trying to say is that I have a leer shell which came with Thule tracks/rails and I put my Yakima towers and bars (round) in them no problem. They are standardized..... the rails/tracks.

Hopefully that helps a bit. Ive never heard or dealt with rino racks but I've stacked alot of stuff on my Yakima racks. Id be more worried about the shell failing before the racks. But better to contact a distributor or dealer. And yes Yakima is round, Thule square usually

 

I had Thule tracks on my fiberglass topper and had both Thule and Yakima feet attached. Have generic tracks now on my stainless steel topper and the Thule feet mounted without issue. Was going to get a Prinsu or similar topper platform and ended up building my own from aluminum extrusion to save money. Spent $300 on all of the parts and another $80 on the Prinsu mounting feet since I don't have the chops to fabricate my own. Have my tent mounted to it and it's solid, I've walked on it and also anchored my hammock from the rails so have no worries about strength or longevity.

Plus, with the sides of the rack being built from 2x2 extrusion I've got endless mounting possibilities for; my awnings, lights, shovel/axe mounts, etc. Since most of the newer companies use the extrusion all of the accessory mounts from Prinsu, Victory 4x4, Front Runner, etc. will work. As a bonus all of the Thule mounts like the ski/snowboard, kayak and cargo baskets will attach to the 1x2 load bars. Hope that helps...

 

Do you have any pictures of your set up?

 

I have Rhino Rack rails on my leer. I have Yakima towers and cross bars mounted on them. Does that help a little?

 

I'll send them to your inbox...

 

I'll be listing my 100XL up for sale later tonight or tomorrow. Just a heads up for anyone interested. The roof rack, MaxTrax mounts, inside cap supports and ARB awnings with the large awning room will all go with it.