Show off your 3D printed parts

Grab handles for Prinsu rack.

I hope these PETG bad boys hold up. So far so good.

 

Should hold up decently. I made some mounting brackets out of PETG for small area lights for my roof rack that held up just fine for at least a year in direct Southern California desert sun.

 

If they're a thicker object which those handles appear to be, they should be just fine in the sun. I've made some L-brackets that where less than 1/4" thick and after a couple days in the sun they started to warp, it seems to be all about shape. The sun is also very direct and hot where I live so it might not be something you have to worry about in other regions.

 

Petg should be able to withstand about 140 degrees. It will fade in the sun. I've seen it happen in under a month. The other downside is it is not rigid. It will flex and sag over time.

 

If you guys haven't looked into ASA for outdoor parts definitely check it out. Way better than ABS or PETG.

 

So, in this pic the lower grill, "HILUX" logo, turn signal covers and fog light surrounds are all 3D printed from ASA. I've also done a 3rd brake light cover from clear petg, door speaker adapters, custom shift knob and a magnetic surround for the oil filter. I'm sure there is more I'm forgetting. Working on making a flip key fob that fits my aftermarket alarm remote.

 

Also did a tailgate spoiler when my old cap got damaged

 

How many pieces did you have to print the grill and tailgate top in? Currently experimenting with different ways to join parts with multiple pieces.

Or do you have a huuuge printer?

 

The grill was 4 parts and the spoiler was 5. The grill is ASA so I used acetone to "weld" them. The spoiler is petg and I used pins and epoxy to join them. No huge printer...yet. Just a CR-10S.

 

So. I. Law printed me the vice blocks needed to work on an AR

 

Cool thread!

Printed this yesterday - i was tired of trying to pull big radii off various parts of the truck. Thought, there must be a cool tool for this but at $250-600 - not happening. $30 dial indicator (mcmaster) and now i am pulling big radii to my heart's content. I would like to eventually cut one of these on the CNC and engrave the conversion chart on the back - we'll see.


This all started because I am making a little platform for use w/ phone for getting the camper level: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/zs-approach-utility-build.464628/page-10#post-26305106

I did not realize that the center console is crowned in both directions. Proof of concept below:


Next up - i need to print a support for the hazard switch/clock thing in the center console. I never finished that up and it pops back in the dash every time you press the hazard button. Hoping I find that part already modeled somewhere!

PS - +1 for Fusion 360. Hard to beat the value. I use it for all my cad/cam work. have used Solidworks Soliddesigner ProE Alias etc... Fusion is my favorite.

 

I need to make something like this! Camper is too tall for my shortness!

 

Ahh so you must also have the Scosche dash kit!

 

No.... a while back i made this...

 

I've been using mine pretty much exclusively for work, but this past weekend ran into a recurring issue. Using ABS with the same presets/files I've been using for months, about 1.5 hours into a 10 hour print one of the three parts would come off of the print bed. I cleaned the platform multiple times with alcohol, and each print seemed to do a little better than the last, but every time it failed. Do the print platforms need to be replaced after a while? I'm using a FlashForge Adventure Lite.

Since the part will be partially submerged in a 60/40 propylene glycol/water solution in a -40C freezer I have been using ABS exclusively. I've had a PLA calibration block submerged in the same solution (at room temperature) since last December with no notable degradation, so I may transition to PLA for my future prints as it seems to be more forgiving.

 

Great idea for the radii gauge!

I had truck/camper leveling issues to for my truck tent.

I went to the hardware store and bought 2 small (~ 1" long) $5 stick on bubble levels. Parked the truck on a known level surface (parking lot) and then stuck the levels on the inside of my center console compartment. One perpendicular to the other.

Now when I pull up to my camp spot I just open the center compartment and drive slowly until it's level.

 

I like this solution but it is not nearly over-thought and over-built enough for me. Lol!

 

Beds can wear out, but they usually get damaged before that happens. You could try a quick scuff with a scotch Brite pad, then wipe it down with alcohol or move up in the solvents and try an acetone wipe. Also check the nozzle for wear.

With the way the world is going right now, there is also a chance that the filament manufacturer changed something in their blend and it might no longer adhere like it used to. In that scenario you could use abs slurry, or a glue stick.

 

I have needed to give the bed a good cleaning with dawn and green scotch rite scrubby followed by 91% isopropyl alcohol.

Most of the bed adhesion issues I have had has been related to bed out of tram or nozzle height on first few layers.

 

Could also be that your filament has absorbed water over time and that's giving it a hard time sticking. Not enough to pop and sizzle in the nozzle but enough to make it frustrating.