Show off your 3D printed parts

I just installed a set of KC Cyclone V2 under hood lights to a non-standard location using this 3D printed mount. Only available on Printables.com for now... I put it on Thingiverse but it disappeared... I can't view it, I can't edit it, I can't link it, it's just gone. This is a recurring issue on TV that they just can't seem to resolve.

Toyota Tacoma KC Cyclone V2 under hood light mounts by Raylo | Download free STL model | Printables.com

 

Mounts for mounts. Thanks to @dpele for the idea.
Need to adjust it up a bit for the UV9G with the swivel clip and work on a few dimensions but it works.

 

Awesome work! Looks great!

 

Which printer do you have so I know which one to avoid?

 

Any plans for a 3d printed fuse panel? Would that even work?

 

A factory replacement or some sort of accessory fuse block?

 

under the hood accessory type near the brake booster

 

I suppose you could if you needed something custom. Aren’t there quite a few options available commercially and other boutique panels that people are selling on TW?

 

Printing isnt the best for large flat stuff like that. If you have a angle grinder, a drill, and some creativity you can make something just like a powertray.

 

Exactly. That's how I made mine!

(edited to add pictures)




Hard to see the tray because it's painted black...

 

Please keep me updated on this project. I would definitely by a set. I have an access cab and space is limited for audio.

 

It's not going to get done by me. Too little interest versus time to get it done.

 

This would be quite a large print to do. I am not sure how different materials would hold up to the vibrations.
How would this work differently than a foam baffle?

$16 Install Bay Speaker Baffle 6 By 9" Oval Pair- VXT69

https://www.amazon.ca/Install-Bay-V...ix=6x9+car+speakers+foam,aps,119&sr=8-13&th=1

 

https://grabcad.com/library/tacoma-bed-rail-t-nut-1

 

A foam baffle flexes which depending on the material could "trick" the speaker and the foam could act like a enclosure. Getting the right amount of flex would be tricky at best. The foam baffles that you qouted/posted flex far too much to have any advantage in sound reproduction as those are more for keeping the elements off of the back of the speaker versus being an enclosure.

A enclosure, whether built out of wood, fiberglass, or thick plastic has no flex. Since the topic is a 3D printed box for door speakers the advantage of a enclosure for a door speaker would be vastly improved mid bass and lower midrange frequencies. The difference between a enclosure that flexes and one that doesn't would be like night versus day.

 

Ah yeah that makes sense! I am far from a sound guru. But I listen to music all the time and it's a huge part of my life.
Since the taco's have horrendous sound systems, I got a local shop to build one for me. I have 6.5" round Focal speakers all around with tweeter and 2x 10" JL subs in the back. It's a very clean setup and sounds much better.
I was thinking of sound deadening and closed cell foaming the doors. I'm sure that will help a lot. Another project that will take ages to do

Sorry this is off topic...

 

Your Focals would LOVE an enclosure with the correct amount of air inside and would return the favor to your ears. I was a pro car audio installer, among other things, for decades.

 

Hmmmm okay... I will start thinking about a design.

 

I'll continue the off topic topic. Sorry guys. lol

In a setup like this your better off sealing the door. Hopefully you were able to protect the back side of the speaker from the elements, which is what those foam baffles are mainly designed to do. Most of the time in a door you want to leave the back or bottom side open to allow for airflow like the ones

$23 NVX XBAF65 2 Piece 6.5" or 6.75" Weatherproof Silicone Rubber Speaker Baffle Kit

here, otherwise you'll be choking off the speakers bass response. To seal the door is somewhat time consuming depending on how proper you're trying to do it. Also, you aren't completely sealing door because that's pretty much impossible and you still want to keep the drains in the bottom of the door intact. You could absolutely 3d print something like this, but they are so cheap that I don't know if it's necessarily worth spending the time or using material to do it yourself. That's up to you though.

In my 01 Outback beater car I sealed up the doors with left over deadening from a previous stereo project. I just used some stiff corrugated plastic used in crafts to fill the large holes and sealed the rest of the smaller holes by placing the sound deadener over it. Again, this is not proper but it works well in this beater car setup totaling less than $75 for woofers, crossovers and tweeters from PartsExpress. It really surprises my friends who have heard it. I had all of that installed without sealing the door for about a week and it was decent but lacked punch and just sounded shallow, after sealing the doors it really woke it up!! The proper way would be to make ABS or HDPE block off panels for each large opening with a thin rubber gasket to seal against the door metal, attach with screws to rivnuts placed on the door sheet metal (that way you have access if your window motor needs replaced), deaden the filler panel, deaden the inside of the exterior door skin, deaden the sheet metal of the door, deaden the interior door panel in key areas to avoid rattles, put noise absorption on the back of the interior door panel and use a foam surround around the speaker to take up room between the interior panel to direct the sound from the woofer. It's a lot of work to do it properly. It really depends on how much all of that is worth it to you.

 

Now you are making me what to do this to my system...