Show off your Mountain Bike!!!

Unless you can get the specs on the eye-to-eye and stroke and find something compatible, you may want to consider just a rebuild. Most of the big bike brands have custom tunes for their specific geometries. Going aftermarket may not get you the characteristics you want. Just doing a simple rebuild is not hard and the parts are cheap, or you could send it in to PUSH or somewhere and tell them what you want changed.

 

Thanks for the reply. Ya I actually talked to my boss today (he owns 3 Specialized dealerships) and he pretty much said the same thing. He said instead of messing around with finding something that fits, just drop it off at his shop and he will just have Fox rebuild it. I might ask that when they rebuild it if there is a way to valve it a bit more firm, then do that. If not, I guess I will just have to run more pressure to compensate.

 

What's the tune ID on the shock?

 

Happy Ive been able to ride this late in the year! Sadly snow is on the way

 

CX96

 

Oh is this the one with the yoke attached to the shock shaft? You would need to replace that part if you changed shocks. (added $$$) These also have a specialized RX tune from the factory which is pretty dialed. They can certainly re-tune it but I'd just get it serviced then try adding a larger volume spacer. Those FSR bikes are known to be pretty active and squishy. You don't want to get stuck on a tune that's too firm when it sounds like a spring issue that you're describing.

 

Ya it is. But I was told that you can get a few shocks made specifically for that bike and it'll bolt right on to the shaft side w/o issue. But it MAY require some messing around or purchasing of mounting hardware on the eyelet side (on the top tube of the frame.) So that was why in my initial post I was curious if anyone tried a different shock on this bike and knew for sure. Because the shop did not know and I wasn't really looking to buy a bunch of extra parts or go down the road of chasing down a way to make something work. Maybe I'll just send it in and can I just ask Fox to up the volume spacer when the service it? I saw a video of how to do it and it looks easy. I'd rather just tell them that I would like to try a larger one and have them do it while they had it. Thanks for the response, I appreciate your help.

 

There are a couple Rock shox shocks available specifically for that bike. Personally I wouldn't bother unless you can get it for dirty cheap. You would still be looking at possibly needing to re-tune to get the results you desire. Suspension is very personal to the rider so I'd take anyone saying "Yea this one is better" with a grain of salt. Changing volume spacers is very easy. I'd just buy the set, then you can play with the different sizes and see what you like. https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pr...ume-tuning-kit-for-2013-or-newer-float-shocks

 

Perfect. Thanks a lot. I appreciate the help!

 

PNW lever is on my to do list. I have a T7 and went with their grips and they match perfect. Which tires came on your T8? I have the Hans Damf and they’re not bad, also 2.6”. I’m itching to swap the front fork, that will likely be my next upgrade to the bike.

 

My T8 came with the Vee flow snaps or whatever they’re called. I was supposed to get the Hand Damf but I guess because of supply issues they had those. Story of the bike world at the moment.

My buddy bought a T7 about the same time as I did this spring. We aren’t a fan of the recon fork….but it’s his first full suspension and I’m sure he will upgrade to a fox 36 or RS lyrik at some point.

 

I’m looking at the Pike and Marzocchi Bomber Z1 for mine. Pike is lighter and the Bomber is basically a budget Fox 36 and it can be upgraded with all the Fox bits in the future. I'm also considering the Bomber Z2, it has awesome reviews and might be a better fit for how I ride, Z1 is likely overkill.

 

Figured I would throw up a pic of my bike in the thread, while I was at it. Just put those Renthal bars on recently. Higher rise and I really like them.

 

2020 Yeti SB-130

far and away the best bike I’ve ever had. I fortunate to live in west Denver where I have tons of trials to ride within a 10min drive.

 

The bomber sounds like the way to go send pics when it’s on!

 

I have Z1's on my shop made 2021 Specialized carbon Evo. They are perfect for me and no signs of any negatives.

What "bits" ARE different? In case teardown is required in the future, I'd like to do the same. Thanks!

 

Will do, it'll likely be after Christmas. I'm also not sure which direction I'll go, Pike or Marzocchi. TBD, but the Recon needs to go. It was OK for a bit, but I want some better dampening up front. I'm actually fairly happy with the rear RS Deluxe so I think that's going to stay.

From what I've gathered, the Z1 is like the lower end Fox , I think it used to be called the Rhythm. But you can upgrade the Z1 with the Grip 2 or Fit damper to basically make the Z1 a Fox 36. Don't quote me on this, but I think the Z2 is the same way with the Fox 34. Fox owns Marzocchi so the Bomber line is now like the lower end Fox line up but can be upgraded with Fox components.

 

I'm such a whimpass rider (hey I'm almost 64) I don't even come close to pushing the limits. I've heard all kinds of stuff about the Bombers, I knew Fox owns Marzocchi but have read everything from (truth) Bomber lines are NOT just relabeled old Marzocchi to they are same as Fox, etc. The real truth is probably as you write. Some different internals. They are indeed the same as Fox frames, and this is wonderful really. They actually thought about fender mounts, for example. Perfect winter fit!

 

First bike Is '16 stumpjumper. These were considered "all mountain" with a short wheel base. Great on climbs. Horrible on down hill. Pretty much an aggressive cross country bike before more aggressive future models. I broke everything on this bike because it just couldnt hold up. Converted 2x12 to 1x10. One piston to two piston brakes with increased rotors from 180mm to 220 mm. Front fork upgraded to DVO diamond. Despite upgrades, I would still flip over the handle bars (short wheel base) and get bucked all over the trail. Great first bike with aluminum frame crashed all the time and learned how to repair and replace parts. The stumpy (specialized stumpjumper) unfortunately now collects dust or is pimped out to a new rider who wants to try MTB. I fell off a cliff with it and survived. It's a dirty player. Unpredictable, but willing





2nd bike: I had a friend who worked at a skii resort who would have summer downhill. I was able to snag a "18 Santa Cruz carbon Bronson for cheap (used). This for me is my perfect bike. Great for climbing and slacked out for decents. I increased the travel from 150mm to 160 putting the head angle at 65 degrees. I upgrade my shock to DVO with an external reservoir for extended rocky down hills. Haven't flipped over the handle bars yet. The back end is also tucked in enough for tail whips, track stands for tight cornering and technical roots/rock beds. Love this thing. The Bronson is a slacked out princess that likes to glide with single track, laughs over drops and catches air off bump ups, tables, gaps.

 

Anyone here in Southern California ridden at Idyllwild before?

These Trails:
https://www.trailforks.com/region/idyllwild/?activitytype=1&z=14.7&lat=33.74967&lon=-116.75082

I'm heading there with a group on Saturday, and I've never been there before, we're shuttling, and these are the run the group has organized:

1)From the red start point at the beginning of the trail (Marion Drive), we will descend WEST approximately 150 FEET and hang a right to join Topimator to approx .75 miles WEST to a left intersection
2)Go left onto Optimator for approx 1.2 miles, then right to the Smoke Stack Trail (stay right)(This is what we rode with you last time....and, as you may remember, it got shitty after we made a LEFT turn and started climbing Bottomator instead of making a right turn)


3) Go approx 1 mile to intersection then hang a right (north) about 200-300 feet (cross dirt road)
4) Go left down Upper Tubs (and stay left for approx .75 miles)
5) At approx .75 miles, then go right on to Lower Tubs and stay right for about .6 miles
6) When you reach the dirt road, go left and ride approx 200 feet and make a right on the dirt road.
7) Ride this dirt road .25 miles to Hellrazor Trail

TRAIL 2: (we never actually got to ride this one, but it looks great)
1) Start at the top and ride all the way down to the rock drop intersection at approx .5 miles (I already know where this is so no chance of getting lost). As you can see, this intersection has Phantom Gulch to the West and Mystic Creek to the east.
2) Go left at this point, across the dirt road, for approx 2 miles on Mystic Creek Trail
3) At first intersection, go right
4) At second intersection, go right again
5) Join Project X (south) to the HUB parking lot
6) From the HUB (labeled as "P" in blue font), go south onto Black Bear Trail and ride it for about 200 feet to the SECOND left
7) Left on Grotto Trail for about .4 miles to the SECOND right (Grotto Drifters Trail)
8) Take Grotto Drifters across first dirt road
9) At second dirt road, make a left for approx 1 mile to Hellrazor Trail

Any insights to these runs, or the trail system in general?