Show us your "KNOB"

do you have to cut it, or can you leave it tall?

 

I had to cut mine because the Chrome Shaft that the knob screwed onto was to short to leave the Knob full size. I did not mind cutting down, I think it looks better shorter.

 

Oh i see, thanks

 

When I bought mine I modified it with a coupler nut and some M8x1.25 stud that I cut to size so I didn't have to cut. But then again I like my shifter sitting high. It did take a little bit of modification to finally get it all together though. This picture was before I fine tuned it a little bit to bring it a little lower (cut the M8 stud down a little more). Not to mention the only M8 coupler nut I could find was on BoltDepot, and it cost $10 to ship a sub $2 piece lol...bunch of bullshit but owell.

 

I did one like 916tacotruck, the Magpul Forward Grip. First try filled the grip with bondo, drilled it out to 17/64 full depth, then drilled out to 3/8 to 1 inch less than the 17/64 depth. Tapped the 17/64 section to 8mmx1.25 thread.

It fit but wouldn't tighten up, pulled the tapped threads out.

So, I took the grip and drilled the hole out to 1/2 inch, then took a piece of 1/2 inch rod and cut it to fit the depth of the hole, drilled the rod to 17/64 to within about a 1/8 inch of the end, then drilled to 3/8 inch to 1 inch less than the depth of the 17/64 inch hole, then tapped the 17/64 inch section to the 8mmx1.25 threads. Then inserted the rod into the 1/2 hole in the bondo in the Magpul grip. Worked like a champ. Droppped a few drops of Breakfree in the bottom to prevent the threads from binding together.

Thanks to 916tacotruck for the idea.

 

Many thanks to Eddie and this thread.

the side view photo makes the shifter look shiny chrome and its not, that was a result of the flash. its finished with a clean brushed aluminum finish...

I installed the Tundra TRD shift knob too nothing like the feel of cold metal and leather in your hand. My truck isnt a TRD so im not into anything with the TRD branding in it, but the logo is pretty unobtrusive.

i wrapped the lower part of the shifter in masking tape then took my belt sander to it. i took off more than i needed too. you can minimize sanding if you sand it with an angle (angle that would make the shifter lean backwards if placed flat on a table). as you just need to take enough off to clear the lowest gate which is 1 and 2 (full aft). i took off prob nearly an inch, and didnt need to remove that much. it feels like such a nice quality part. the leather on it matches the katzkins graphite PERFECT.

i used part number

$95 PTR57-34140 Shift Knob

PTR57-34140, it has the red stitching on the front (i was trying to avoid that) but you cant even tell its there its so out sight.

 

sub'd for part numbers on tundra trd shifter

 

Sub'd. Will post pictures of mine when I get home.

 

My WWII grenade. Real WWII hand grenade that was disarmed and cut in half after the war

 

purchased and installed... not cutting required.
Used 3 different M8 x 1.25 pitch nuts and still have 5 good turns on the knob to hold her in place. Height is perfect.... shifts into all positions and is great matching height when resting elbow on center console and top of shifter.

Might take a sharpie or black dye to the red threads if they start to annoy me, but as someone else mentioned, they are not very noticeable.

P/N - Box


Castling Nut, Jam Nut, Regular Nut (M8 x1.25 pitch) - 5 threads still showing... plenty to hold her tight.


Shifted all the way back


Shifted all the way forward

 

Did the TRD shift knob a couple days ago

 

whoa, yours looks incredibly high. do you know how high your is standing?

mine is around 5", which is just about the same height as the stock one.
the ruler in the shots is in a slightly different location but you get the gist.
in fact the tundra one sits a little bit lower...

 

Here's mine
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Got bored at work today and made a new shift knob. I'll send it to ano tomorrow and backfill the text with red paint afterwards. Probably should have extended the bottom collar all the way to the boot...sounds like a revB will be in the works

 

Nice work!

 

Looks badass lost sheep.

So our (automatic) thread and pitch is M8 x 1.25 correct?

 

Yes. Autos are M8x1.25. Manuals are 12Mx1.25.

 

Everything I found agrees with the above WRT autos.

Manuals are definitely M12 x 1.25 (I had to go buy the tap yesterday).