Show us your truck bed sleeping platform/drawer/storage systems

This is a great option for those that have caps. For me, I don't want to run a shell and the DECKED system is perfect for what I need

 

LOL, nothing fishy from me, just my 2 cents. But I agree with you the cost is something that you will have to consider. I just want others to know what options are out there and to be able to answer questions some may have.

 

It was definitely something that I had mentioned in my review to them of the system. Also would have liked to see the extra storage cubbies towards the cab like the full size version. I was told that it would not be possible though do to design restrictions with the space of the bed.

 

might be a stupid question: how bad would it be to not glue & screw vs just screw? i'm using baltic birch so it's got a decent bite. reason im asking is bc the fridge i got im thinking might be bigger than i'll need so for my current build id like to be able to re-use much of the wood (at least base platform) if I decide to change the fridge out...

 

The glue is vital. The screws hold the box together while the glue dries & turns the pieces into "one".

 

Glue is quite important for the rigidity of the system.

Could you possibly glue most of the platform, leaving only the area you might change unglued? Not ideal, but probably stronger than no glue at all.

 

I haven't used glue on any of mine and it's been fine. YMMV

 

Update on mine. I also used the skate bearing approach. Glued & screwed the boxes and the lower parts of the frame but the top sheet is just screwed on for now since this is just version 1.0 and I wanted to make sure it didn't need revision before I glued the top cap on. Same reason it's not sanded, painted, or carpeted, and there's no faces on the drawers.





Worked well this past weekend, but I want to add a slideout piece to one of the drawers for a platform for my camp stove, and add some means of dividing the drawers into smaller cubbies so all my gear doesn't slide to the front when I brake (because then when I open the drawers it's at the back )

I also need to add folding 'wings' to either side that will rest on the bed wall cutouts and wheel wells when they're folded out, so I've got a level surface all the way across.

 

The importance of the glue depends a lot on the configuration you're using. For a simple crossbeam/deck setup using 1x6 or 2x6 set into the notches on the sides of the bed, then just screwing the plywood deck to those beams should be sufficient. If you're constructing boxes, then you'll want to have the edges glued at least (I doweled mine as well for extra lateral rigidity/strength). If your vertical elements are solid wood, then screwing into the edges would be fairly strong, or decent strength could be obtained using pocket joints in hardwood or BCX plywood, but access on one side will probably be an issue if you're making a closed box. I wouldn't trust joints consisting of only screws into the edge of any kind of ply, though.

 

Looks good. If you're looking to overdo the divider system a bit, you could consider bolting in some E-track rails. They're low profile and create a very flexible set of options for installing dividers or lashing points when and where you need one.

 

Thanks. I'll have to look into those; right now I'm basically planning on gluing plywood laths on the insides of the boxes that I can then put a divider between (mostly because it would make good use of the abundant scrap cuts of plywood I've currently got kicking around

 

i was actually planning on using pocket holes for the majority of the system

 

That's definitely a simpler plan. Over-designing things is frequently my default setting. I put a couple of 2-foot rails in the drawer in my setup, then stuffed the drawer with tool/gear bags so completely that there's no room for things to shift anyway...

 

I can understand that urge. I used the skate bearing/square tubing system and used well over 100 of the bearings (probably around 150) and some heavy-duty tubing, and to secure the tubing to the boxes I used long self-tappers with washers underneath them to help resist pull-through on the plywood.

All of my camping gear I'll be storing in there combined probably weighs 250lbs.

 

thanks for the previous posts/photos all helped me complete my build

 

not the best but has been working for years now and I can take it out 5.

 

I'd love to hear how they can be installed incorrectly since they're pretty straight forward with the J hooks and center bolts. I had pooling water in the passenger side drawer in heavy rain. Never kept the thing long enough to look for exactly how it was finding its way in since i was reading about others with similar issues. Cut my loss and wrote it off.... Do you work for the company?

 

I've seen videos of the installation process and it's anything but straightforward. It takes hours to assemble and install that thing. We're getting off topic though.

 

I bought a couple packs of bearings before building mine, but ended up just putting a pair of built-in casters on the deep end of the drawer I have, then I tapered the upper edge so I can lift the handle end about 1/4 inch and it just rolls. Since the other side is a full box that just pulls all the way out, I put the same carpeting in that bay that I used on the deck, and the urethane finished face slides fairly easily without any other need for rolling.

Since most of my camping gear is for tent camping (which is still my plan "A" for anything that'll be more than one night, or when I get to the site before sunset), i've got it all in one large backpack; the pack is too heavy to hike very far with (especially with the shit shape I'm in currently) but it makes storing and loading it all for trips very easy. The real heavy stuff is the water containers and propane tank (and portable grill when I choose to travel with it) but I'm not set up to stash any of that in the storage. I've got a 36" plano case to bolt to my prinsu rack but have been realizing that I'm not sure what I can fit in there that I'd feel safe allowing to get as hot as that thing will when I'm driving through death valley in june/july. I may end up using it largely to haul folding camp furniture and tire chains; maybe also the chain I have for "winching" with my hi-lift, but that'll be a PITA to lift that high.

 

No don't work for the company but I have seen where several people have put the drawer seals on backwards. This allows the water to get into the drawers. Also on mine the metal ruler did not line up with the metal channels that span across the bed. If I was to use the holes that were designated for the two back holes, I would have made an access point for water to get in.

No system is perfect and there are plenty of options out there. Just choose what works best for you.