Show us your winches (not your wives)

For anyone using in-cab switches for winch control, how did you wire the switches to the solenoid box? Is there somewhere to get a pigtail for the remote control line that can be spliced to wires from the switches?

 

When I had them (now have a remote controlled winch) I ran a power switch and then a momentary side to side switch. Since the winch is "hot" or on all the time all you need is 2 wires out to the solenoid to operate the in and out function. I took the solenoid apart and traced the wires that went to the plug in port. Looking at the "guts" the solenoid typically you can see from the "plug in port" wires going down to the main cables that operate in and out function. I spliced those 2 wires in and tested to see if in and out was correct. Got it backwards the first time so I switched them and it was good to go.

Note - I did the separate power switch in the cab so that I could have a hard power off on the in/out switch. I didn't want to accidentally hit the momentary switch or have something fall on it and then the winch spool out. Ironically even with the power off switch my 85lb German Shepard managed to get his big paws in the area while I was out of the truck. Turned the power on and stepped on the momentary switch and began spooling in the winch. I had it hooked to a lower tow point on the front of my truck. it bent the crap out of the roller fairlead and jammed the syn line up a bit. Soon after that I got a new winch with remote and got rid of the in cab switch. So be mindful of switch placement.

 

Thanks, I just cracked open the solenoid box and noticed that's how it's wired. I've already got the switches wired like yours, one power switch feeding a momentary on/off/on, but the momentary is in the overhead console, so it's impossible to set anything on it and tough to hold by accident, and the power is a push button on the outside of the steering wheel.

Since I've already got a switch to run one, is it worth adding a solenoid to the main power circuit so the winch isn't always on a hot circuit?

 

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Thanks, I just cracked open the solenoid box and noticed that's how it's wired. I've already got the switches wired like yours, one power switch feeding a momentary on/off/on, but the momentary is in the overhead console, so it's impossible to set anything on it and tough to hold by accident, and the power is a push button on the outside of the steering wheel.

Since I've already got a switch to run one, is it worth adding a solenoid to the main power circuit so the winch isn't always on a hot circuit?

 

For you in cab switch or the winch in general? I have seen some people put the winch itself on a 300a breaker but never though a switch. Typically the winch will only run when the controller is plugged in which is why you wire the winch itself directly to the battery.

 

One of the in cab switches is an on/off for "winch power", that one already controls the power to the in/off/out momentary rocker, but I'd feel a bit safer if that also controlled a relay/solenoid which would control the power into the winch itself rather than having that wire connected just directly to the battery hot terminal.

I've seen some comments on other forums about using an old Ford starter solenoid for this purpose, but I'm not sure if those are really designed to be on for more than a few seconds at a time.

 

Gotcha. That is what the winch solenoid itself is for. No power to the winch unless your hand held is plugged in or you in cab switches are turned on. No need for a other solenoid IMO.

 

Anyone ever mananged to cross-thread a bolt while installing a winch?

I would've thought it's impossible in that kind of a captive-nut configuration, but I apparently somehow managed to do it, and I'm trying to figure out how.

 

Those captive square nuts still have space to move. I lost one once and was able to just replace with a regular nut that slides into the square opening. It actually fit tighter which was nice.

 

Finally got the install/heavy wiring finished and the rope wound on. Still need to run the wires for my in cab switches, but I did splice a connector into the solenoid box so it should be plug and play for that hookup from here.

 

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Here's my portable SmittyBilt 12K x20 Comp 2nd Gen, Synthetic Line, Wireless Remote mounted to a Warn Receiver Cradle. Check out the quick connect jumper cables as well (on the ground.) I can jump start others without opening hood.


Front receiver from @Mobtown Offroad . I can also mount to factory tow receiver in rear. Warn power cable is snaked along frame to rear hitch.


Powered by Auxiliary Optima 27F Yellow Top


4 position safety switch by Blue Seas 6007. Allows front only, rear only, both or none.

 

Dont mean to revive an old thread but lots of good info in here. Just picked up this Warn XD9000i for a screaming deal since the dude didnt really know what its worth and didnt have a controlled. Luckly, I had one in the house and went and tested it and ended up getting it. Going to replace the cable with a synthetic line and looking for recomindations on lines. Not trying to break the bank so no master pulls for me.
2016-06-30_05-52-57 by Harrison M, on Flickr

 

Warn synthetic has always been nice to me.

 

Take a look at customsplice.com. They have good prices.

 

Do you know the difference between their am steel blue line and diamond line? Looking at their diamond line in 5/16 at either 100, 125, or 150 ft. They recommend 150 but 100-125 should be more than enough

 

Did some more searching and found them on pirate. Next paycheck or so I will be ordering their 5/16 diamond in Grey at either 100 or 125' not sure what length yet

 

I've posted these in my own thread, but here you go.

I have an ARB Deluxe Bull Bar with the ARB light kit. The winch is a Smittybilt X20 10k with synthetic rope. You can't see the winch for the bumper, so I don't have any actual pics of it installed.

I rewired the control box to relocate it in the engine compartment and the switches in the cab. Basically, I put long cables where the short ones (to be mounted on the winch) were and put short ones where then long ones (to be mounted to the battery/ground) were, then added longer wires to the plug and switch to power the winch. Here is where I put the winch power plug and the switch for the wireless remote.




The box itself is mounted behind the battery for now. I imagine a battery upgrade is one of the near-future projects, probably going to dual Optimas for the winch, lights, and sound system I'll install soonish. The holes are already there in the fender area, and the mount if just cut/bent steel with holes that you can buy at any hardware store. Simple, cheap, effective.




I will be using it for the first time this weekend. I have an old FJ that is is having some fuel and other issues and decided to crap out in a gravel pile. So, I will be able to offer a review of it after that, but I'm sure it will do fine.

 

Exact same winch I have. Hope you aren't afraid to do some cutting to make it fit. I'm needing synthetic line for mine as well.