Siezed caliper bolts

Changing my wheel bearing and these mfrs are on there. I thought my impact would take them right out with 750 lbs of torque. Not so and I dont want to snap them. Anybody have this problem and what was your solution? Soaking in PB right now. Thanks

 

Everyone has this problem.

4 Toyota trucks if mine all had froze cam bolts.

Cut an replace is the only remedy that I've found works.

Thin disc on the grinder or Sawzall reciprocal saw. The bolts are hardened, use quality blades.

 

750 isn’t much, my 1200 can’t get them sometimes

I use a breaker bar on Toyota truck brake jobs now, I don’t even try impact.

 

Those bolts have Loctite from the factory. Heat each bolt with a propane torch, then use the impact while the bolt is hot.

Are you using any extensions or swivels with the socket? Those sap much of the impact torque.

 

thread says caliper bolts. Not cam.

 

My bad. Damn bifocals!

 

Mine were on crazy hard when I last replaced calipers, nothing I had including a bigass cheater was even touching them, so I took the job to a shop. The mechanic said he'd never seen bolts on that tight come off without shearing first or having to be cut off. Even if yours aren't quite that bad, it does happen.

 

Mine were the same way.
I had to use a breaker bar and cheater.
And I tell you FOR SURE, it took way more than 91 ft/lbs to break them free.

My Mid-Torque Milwaukee wouldn't touch them. It's rated at 600 ft/lbs break-a-way torque.
The High-Torque would fit in there.

Thankfully the hub bolts were not that tight.
I was sweating those....

 

Used a 3/4" conduit bender on my breaker,thanks Tn

 

The 4 bolts that hold the bearing assembly in are torqued to 59 ft/lbs. My bolts had Loctite on the treads already.
I had to buy a torque adapter to torque them. But good and tight is "good".
The Axle nut is 173 Ft/Lbs.

I did 60 and 175 and called it good.
Caliper bolts are 91 ft/lbs

 

thanks again,I just came downstairs to chec the spec!

 

If anybody stumbles on this,jack up the opposing lower A arm to lift the sway bar a bit and it gives you an easier time lifting the knuckle up and out of the way when removing/reinstalling the axle without damaging the seal.

 

I removed the lower ball joint bolts and pulled out ward on the spindle.

 

I did that also,it just makes it a little easier and lighter (it seemed) for old dudes like me.Actually it made it a little easier for my wife to hold it out of the way

 

One more thing to add: 163k on the Taco.

 

PB blaster is the worst penetrant there is.

 

Ive had decent results with it. What works better for you?

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs

 

I've had to mute this guy, he never supports anything just posts things like this and leaves.

PB Blaster is obviously a good penetrating fluid thats been around for ages. I never liked the odd ball fluids like liquidwrench, mousemilk pb, rustoff etc.

I prefer acetone based fluid, Toyota OEM Penetrating fluid is one of the best ive used. Mopar OEM is good, its kerosene based I think.

There's loads of them, but most dont work on bolts like these because its difficult to get the fluid to creep, so all you can really lube is the surface.

 

Yeah, an old timer taught me a trick that SEEMS to work, when you can do it - heat the bolt from the nut end and spray on the head end, let it cool then do the opposite.

As the heated end cools and contracts, it sucks some penetrant in, or so the theory goes.