SilverGhost Rises

Looking really good Ray, gonna be a sturdy cage for sure!

 

Let me know how the height is when you get them. Trying to decide if I need extra tall or not

 

For sure bud! The stock seats run 28.5-29 tall from the cushion to the top of the head rest. PRP also sells a mounting bracket that sides forward and back that mounts in our 1st gens. I'll be using that mount. I won't be solid mounting the seat.

 

I need to mount my new race seats. Only problem is they are huge and want the driver side to slide.

 

Do you already have mounts? Would these work.
https://www.prpseats.com/product/toyota-tacoma-95-04-mounts/

 

Didn't know they had those, I'll have to try them when I order my seats

 

Yeah my stock sliding rails are bent to shit and are a bitch to move my seat now. So I can't even reuse them. I'm glad PRP sells these. It saves me from having to find some else where, or make some.

 

I use the sliders but I mount off the cage instead of the cab. I bought prp podiums and you sit you up 1.5” taller than my current seats. So I gotta lower the mounting points.

 

@Cr250jumper thoughts on how my shocks are going to line up. This is ride height. Black line center. I can’t move the upper mount any further forward unless I drop the coil over to a 14” from a 16”. I really don’t want to do that. Top is at 3 1/4” from cab back and lower is 1 3/4” from cab.

 

Is it gonna hit the cab at full droop?

 

Looks like it would to me. aren't coilovers about 4'' dia?

 

Isn't the first one for just a shock and the second for a coilover?

 

not sure of the pro/con of the order really other than changing the lever ration on the coilover/bypass. Most setups ive seen go coilover first and bypass second.

 

It's going to be close. I have a lot of options though. A hammer if it's close. Cutting out that lower part of the cab out and welding in another piece of steel. Just kind of notching it out. As much as this truck is going to get chopped I'm not to concerned with it. I do want to keep it to a minimum though. These are ruff numbers right now. I can always move the lower link back an inch or two at the most. There is room. But then the bypass will be even closer to the tire. Everything comes down to when I cycle it. And make sure my numbers are going to work with the anti squat numbers I'm trying to hit. Now I know why DC go long winne when linking. Makes it easier to do.

4" is close to it. Being 2.5" shock. Well see when I get the shocks for sure and go from there. I'm more concerened with the angle of the shock. You have any info on angles of shocks. I've always heard vertical was the way they should sit at full bump.

What he said vvvv coil over first then bypass.

 

hmm i think you'll be hitting the cab with the coils then that close.

I think JD would have more info for shock placement with links then myself. I know on links it's nicer to have the shocks out away from the wheels either half way or 1/3 of the way. This changes the lever ratio and slows the shaft speeds down and makes it easier to tune and the shocks a bit more efficient as opposed to right on the wheel(short course). Due to your double cab, you're pretty close to the wheel but not bad so I get wanting to push it up further forward.

Vertical a bump is probably ideal but JD can confirm that. I wouldn't worry about it swinging forward or something. Unless its into your cab

If you down sized to a 14" would it be that bad? someone on here did a 3 link with trail arms setup with 14'' coil overs under the bed pretty much. Was a 2nd gen but still pulled like 21'' I think. That's more then enough considering your front kit. Unless upgrading to the XLT kit is a real possibility.

 

You're correct, 14” isn’t bad. I seen two other DC run 14” on thier links. One 1st gen and one 2nd gen. Keeps the mounting point lower in the bed and pulls good numbers. I was going to run 16" and 16" but I'll problaby run 14"and 16".

 

Now I’m getting jealous. Rear links too. Trying to remember who did links for a dcsb. The co and bypass are pretty close to the end of the link.

 

Yeah. That's the reason why I decided to cage the truck. Figure I do it right the first time. Yes the shock mounts are very close to the end of the lower link. I'll Be running 48" lowers and the uppers are still in the air about length. Eye balled them and looking to be around 44". Once I get the fuel cell mounted then I'll be able to measure and decided.

Here are a couple I know of.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2003-long-travel-double-cab-4x4longweiney.356752/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/joels-4wd-lt-build.248722/page-43

 

Nice, looks like you got this figured out.

 

Ideal is 90* to the trailing arm at full bump. What happens is you want the rate to be rising as it compresses, if you pass 90* to the arm it starts losing leverage. Which could be fixed with valving and dual rate springs, etc. so its not the end of the world if you cant get them 90