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Simple Leveling Kit...but,

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by whol33oh, Jan 31, 2019.

  1. Jan 31, 2019 at 11:46 AM
    #1
    whol33oh

    whol33oh [OP] Member

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    F115BA53-5F8E-4B48-8B21-CE93D16F0768.jpg Installed a 2”/1” leveling kit this week. Rear blocks weren’t tapered, will that be an issue? I can always buy a shim or even buy new tapered blocks if so. The rear end seems fine as of right now. The front went on pretty well, kind of a bitch by yourself. But everything went on well and torqued to specs. Here’s the but...I noticed the infamous vibration when I drove it after the install. It seems like it’s right under me in the stearing wheel. I’ve done lots of searching and everything I’m experiencing is saying the needle bearing...I have a really hard time thinking the 2” makes that huge of a difference. The only thing i haven’t tried is setting it in 4h to see if the vibration goes away. But something’s telling me it’s gonna make it even more evident. I didn’t go with the 3”/2” thinking it would be more of a hassle. Is it yalls opinion as well that it’s the needle bearing? Thanks in advance!
     
  2. Jan 31, 2019 at 11:49 AM
    #2
    AugustusJack

    AugustusJack Well-Known Member

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    Why not just put it in 4h? That's literally the test.
     
  3. Jan 31, 2019 at 11:49 AM
    #3
    JCOOR

    JCOOR Well-Known Member

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    Did you get an alignment?
     
  4. Jan 31, 2019 at 11:50 AM
    #4
    whol33oh

    whol33oh [OP] Member

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    I’ll do it this evening...
     
  5. Jan 31, 2019 at 11:50 AM
    #5
    Rustytaco71

    Rustytaco71 Well-Known Member

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    2” is actually a good amount, and that’s where many owners report issues with the bearing and alignment (require UCA’s). Anything 2” and above you’ll be potentially opening a whole can of worms and new problems that need fixing at some point. You could have vibrations from a needed alignment as well.

    Truck looks good though!
     
    SpeySquatch likes this.
  6. Jan 31, 2019 at 11:51 AM
    #6
    whol33oh

    whol33oh [OP] Member

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    Not yet, I was thinking I’d do it as soon as I figured out wether or not I needed the needle bearing replaced.
     
  7. Jan 31, 2019 at 11:58 AM
    #7
    JCOOR

    JCOOR Well-Known Member

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    When I lifted mine I drove without an alignment for a day and thought I had a vibration but after an alignment its been fine. I may have just been paranoid initially and expecting something bad
     
    whol33oh[OP] likes this.
  8. Jan 31, 2019 at 4:28 PM
    #8
    whol33oh

    whol33oh [OP] Member

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    Thanks! I’ll have it aligned asap
     
  9. Feb 2, 2019 at 7:49 PM
    #9
    Montanahunter

    Montanahunter Well-Known Member

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    The EGGS bushing is not that scary. If the vibe goes away order the bushing.
     
  10. Feb 2, 2019 at 7:52 PM
    #10
    Dr. Emmett Brown

    Dr. Emmett Brown Well-Known Member

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    Non tapered block is most likely the culprit.
    You changed your drive shaft angle, it needs to be put back to spec.
     
    Montanahunter likes this.
  11. Feb 2, 2019 at 8:04 PM
    #11
    SpeySquatch

    SpeySquatch Function over Form

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    It makes a huge difference. I’m 1.75” of lift and the ECGS bushing was the ticket. Plus 3-degree shims...Don’t fight it, just do it.

    The tell tale sign is if you feel the vibe pronounced in the top of the steering wheel when it happens

    Do you know how to measure your driveline working angles? Pretty simple
     
  12. Feb 3, 2019 at 3:57 AM
    #12
    whol33oh

    whol33oh [OP] Member

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    I ordered the ECGS bushing, should be here on Tuesday. And driveline angles...nope ☺️
     
  13. Feb 3, 2019 at 9:14 AM
    #13
    SpeySquatch

    SpeySquatch Function over Form

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    Get a digital angle finder.
    Zero it on the back of the transfer case (somewhere flat that is parallel with the front shaft) you need to turn the gauge so that when you zero you are zeroing parallel with the shaft

    Shaft 1 is X
    Shaft 2 (shaft behind carrier bearing) is Y
    Z is the angle of your rear diff (measure on the flat side to the right where the shaft and pinion comes out)

    Working angle 1: Y-X
    Working angle 2: Y-Z

    The difference of those should be within 1 degree of each other. Let’s say it’s outside 1 degree, like 1.5. You then need 1 degree shim to put it at a 0.5 degree difference

    image.jpg
     

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