Simple towing question

Some of you will probably laugh, that’s fine. I have never towed in my life and I need a small U-Haul trailer to transport some house stuff during my upcoming move. I have the tow package on my truck, my only question is what else do I actually need in order to be tow ready? A ball mount?

I looked at the towing mega thread and it really mostly talked about weights and loading and all that.

 

Yes, you will need the correct size ball mount. Without knowing anything about the trailer, trailer safety, etc... you may need a brake controller. I tow a 14' trailer fairly often with ~1000lbs added to the trialer weight and you notice it, but the Taco does like a champ.

 

Determine the size of ball you need. The U-Haul hitch will determine the size of the ball. Also determine the pin out for the trailer lights. Use the safety chains when you tow.

 

You need the draw bar with the proper size ball. Ask Uhaul what size you need, probably 2 inch, but some smaller trailers use 1 7/8. Your light connections will be there already if you have factory tow package. Make sure the trailer latch is locked down on the ball, lights connected, and safety chains hooked. Its a good idea to cross the chains also. Take it easy, leave extra space when following, no sharp turns, and you will be fine.

 

You’ll need a hitch ball mount, hitch pin for the ball mount and the proper size hitch ball...you’ll need to find out what size ball you need for the particular trailer you’re using. Some uhaul trailers require a brake controller, which the truck doesn’t come with stock it’s an aftermarket equipment.

Lastly some safety tips when towing.... Learning how a wide of a turn you have to take, you can cause damage to your truck if your turning radius is too tight. Going in reverse with the trailer can be a real PITA especially with smaller trailers you can also damage truck if you don’t pay attention and bind the truck up with the trailer while going in reverse. Give yourself longer braking distance. Check trailer lights. Make sure the trailer is attached properly, the locking mechanism on the trailer should properly secured to the hitch ball otherwise it can pop off the hitch and you’ll have some real problems then haha.

 

@kbUSMC2012

U-Haul should provided instructions on what size ball and they should even hook it up for you correctly. If you do not have the right size hitch and ball, they should have some for purchasing, though it may be cheaper to buy at Wal-Mart or a local hardware store. If you have over 1000 pounds, I recommend trailer brakes, but that requires special wiring--harness and a brake controller--which you probable don't have available right now. If you feel comfortable, I would just be honest with them and tell them that you are pulling for the first time. They should have some tips, and instructions for you. Though, typically they will say not to go over 55mph, depending on your setup, you can actually go a little faster than that.

If it starts swaying (fish-tail motion) DON'T slam on brakes, but either let off the gas and coast to gain control back or accelerate to pull yourself out of the sway. Don't worry too much though, as long as you load your weight equally it should not sway too much, but if it does, your Taco should have anti-sway safety measures that will take over the truck if it needs to. Also, don't jack-knife when reversing the trailer. If you are unfamilar with that term it means doing this (below)



Like previously stated, Tacos pull great. Happy pulling.

 

Make sure the stinger has the necessary drop or rise to ensures the trailer (and its contents) will be level while being pulled. Doesn't have to be perfectly level but the closer the better. Also, its better to load the trailer with more weight up front. Generally you want a weight distribution of approximately 60/40, the 60% being forward, resting on the stinger/ball.

 

That is a good point. By equal distribution of weight, I mean that you have mostly up front (in front of the axle), but equal on the right and left sides.

 

Yeah it’s going to be about 600 lbs so not a whole lot. I know the ball has to be 2”, but on the U-Haul website for the install they tried selling me like 250 bucks worth of stuff in order to be “tow ready” and I can’t believe that that’s correct.

Edit: that is with a class 3 hitch included. It does include wiring for 50 bucks. Do I honestly need that?

I’m seeing hitch ball mounts with everything I need for around 30-40 bucks. Does that sound correct?

 

Yes Sounds about right

 

Depending on what they were trying to sell you, yeah that sounds like BS from them. Should need a hitch, and you can get them with a 2" ball already installed or install it yourself with the right tools. I have to have a light extension, because our utility trailer lights won't reach the bumper light plug-in (Didn't have that problem when they were mounted underneath the bumper). Otherwise, that should be all you need. I am curious what they are trying to sell you.

You should only need to spend about $30-$60 depending on the hitch you get. They have some that have multiple balls on them which cost a little bit more.

 

@kbUSMC2012
Yeah if they tried to sell you a brake controller (installed) along with hitch mount, ball and pin then the $250 would sound about right as well.

But you can pick up a decent brake controller for about $80-100 plus $30-40 in ball and mount still puts you under $150

 

Depends on what you’re looking at. If you plan on towing again, buy at least a category 3 or 5 tow bar and a nice ball. Draw tite or something comparable. The draw bar can have a step down or up to help level the trailer and make sure it’s the right size hole for the threaded shank on the ball you get to match. Just like a regular bolt you want some threads showing below the nut after it’s tight. Best to use a vise to hold the draw bar or ball when you crank down the nut. I sometimes hit the bottom of the ball threads with a cold chisel to create some swelling and burrs to discourage the nut from backing off. You could be looking at a hundred bucks or so for a good set up. They may be selling you what they have which may be more than you need. You don’t need sway control or a weight distribution hitch system for what you described. You may find the wider plate/ball platform surround with the little ball a nice feature. I do. It allows for another small ball to be mounted on the side of the trailer and you can hook up a friction sway control bar in between the two small balls. Major solution for high speed sway. I’ll send some links.

 

https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...&ved=0ahUKEwjaocaNoefbAhVK0FMKHZVXBhcQgjYIwQQ

https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...&ved=0ahUKEwjaocaNoefbAhVK0FMKHZVXBhcQgjYIwQQ

https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...&ved=0ahUKEwj3y5DAoefbAhXNwFMKHc12DeMQgjYI7QQ

https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...&ved=0ahUKEwjWndLcoefbAhWIvlMKHfcfDOsQgTYI2wQ

 

Don’t forget this: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/hopkins-towing-solution-adapter-47345/5760149-P

 

I just now joined to reply to this thread. Please, please, please, make sure you hook up the trailer correctly when towing. My wife almost died when a trailer came unhooked and hit her.


That was a 2017 Sienna that most assuredly saved her life..

 

If he has the tow package, their should be the 4-pin already included on the truck.

 

Maybe they changed it in the later years, but I had to buy an adapter for the 4 pin.

 

Jesus, the guy has never towed before and there is so much misinformation and crap in this thread.

You want 10% of your total trailer weight on the ball. So if the trailer weighs 1000lbs then the tongue or ball weight needs to be approximately 100lbs. The trailer needs to be as close to level as possible. The reason is when you brake if you have too little tongue weight the front of your vehicle will dive and the trailer will push the vehicle forward against the brakes. If you are too high and the tongue weight isn’t enough the rear will rise and could even lift the rear tires off the ground. Now if you are too low and the tongue weight too heavy you could do the opposite and push the rear down and lift the front tires on your vehicle. I hope you understand the reasons for tongue weight and level trailer now.

Crossed chains on the trailer. This is not a suggestion but the proper way to do it. The reason why is if your trailer comes uncoupled the crossed chains will keep the trailer hooked to your vehicle and straight. Each chain pulls against the other to keep the trailer in line. If you don’t cross them the trailer will sway all over the place and make decelerating dangerous. With crossed chains you can slowly apply the brakes or coast and as the tongue goes under your vehicle it will stay straight and allow you to safely stop.

Trailer brakes are required in many jurisdictions when either you exceed 3000lbs (IIRC) or double axle. At least those are the numbers in my jurisdiction and similar or exact in many more. Now your 600lbs is that the weight of the trailer or is that the trailer and loaded weight? We need to know your total trailer weight loaded (or each separately if you have that info). If you are in need of trailer brakes and controller the Tacoma with the tow package is “ready” to accept those. But for a one time tow it is a pain. I won’t go into details unless you NEED brakes. If u-haul offer brakes they could be wireless as this is the newest technology designed specifically for rentals. Once again I won’t go into detail as this needs to be a discussion with u-haul and if you have questions come back here and ask.

Now as far as the actual tow. Slow down, leave extra space etc. You have a ton more weight and the same brakes as you always had. Based on your 600lbs you claimed (trailer or total we need to know) you will barely feel it. But that could change once you let us know the total tow weight. You may need to adjust your turning radius. Think of big rigs turning corners in town. You need to turn wider or risk the trailer cutting the corners and hitting something. Just take it easy and “practice” as you go and it will all make sense. It really isn’t hard but depending on how heavy you are loaded or how large the trailer is you can get into trouble easily by being complacent. If you have to back the trailer in that can be a whole lesson in itself so go slow and make small adjustments. The longer the trailer the easier it is to back up. Small trailers can be next to impossible without lots of experience.

Check out e-trailer and related sites. Some of them had towing guides for newbies or did at one time.

 

Ok, cool. My 2015 only had the 7 way.