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Single (and Two) Piece Driveshaft = Vibes....BE GONE!!!

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by ItalynStylion, Feb 16, 2017.

  1. Dec 6, 2018 at 3:56 PM
    #461
    Greenlemon21

    Greenlemon21 Member

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    Are you saying do it like the OP and put in a Dual Cardan joint after the carrier bearing?
    To be clear, I only have a vibe at 60+, under load at about 1.8-2.2k, and feel it only in the steering wheel. Go into neutral, goes away. Let off the gas, goes away. And the thing that has stumped every Tech I have shown it to, go into 4 and let the revs climb, goes away.
     
  2. Dec 6, 2018 at 4:47 PM
    #462
    Mully

    Mully Well-Known Member

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  3. Dec 6, 2018 at 4:50 PM
    #463
    Greenlemon21

    Greenlemon21 Member

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    Thanks for the suggestion, Might give that a shot when I get motivated to start dropping some cash.
     
  4. Dec 6, 2018 at 4:51 PM
    #464
    Mully

    Mully Well-Known Member

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    This
    http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/CUSTOM_Toyota_drive_shafts.htm
     
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  5. Dec 6, 2018 at 5:14 PM
    #465
    lordetaco

    lordetaco Well-Known Member

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    That sounds like a ujoint.
     
  6. Dec 6, 2018 at 5:42 PM
    #466
    Greenlemon21

    Greenlemon21 Member

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    I have taken it to 2 different driveline shops and both have said U-Joints are fine, granted they did not pull the shaft and do a full inspection. Seems to be the relation to engine speed that makes them think it is not just the driveline. In addition, there are a number of threads here that have other owners with the same symptoms who have had their U-Joints done to no avail. I still haven't done the front wheel drive test (pull driveshaft, drive in 4HI[as straight as possible of course]) to narrow it down to the driveline so with their professional skepticism I didn't feel like having it done would be worth it.
     
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  7. Dec 6, 2018 at 8:04 PM
    #467
    MolonLabeTaco

    MolonLabeTaco Well-Known Member

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    I agree it sounds like a u-joint since it goes away letting off the gas. BUT you say it goes away in 4wd so that usually means it’s the needle bearing.
     
  8. Dec 6, 2018 at 9:14 PM
    #468
    Greenlemon21

    Greenlemon21 Member

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    It goes away when I go into 4th gear and the engine revs up, still there in 4hi on the t case.

    So it is simultaneously engine and vehicle speed related. U joint shouldn’t be affected by engine speed so I doubt it is there. No vibe when climbing in 4th, just on the highway in OD. Might be 5th gear in the tranny, now that I think about it...

    Either way, most threads I’ve read on the subject say that it is just a “Characteristic of the vehicle”, with some people having their whole Powertrain swapped out to no avail. Since it seems hard to get rid of with just a fix I was curious to see if mods might do something.
     
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  9. Dec 6, 2018 at 10:18 PM
    #469
    lordetaco

    lordetaco Well-Known Member

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    Yes, but high engine rpms can have something to do with the driveshaft. It could be that higher rpms causing itself to fix
     
  10. Dec 7, 2018 at 5:17 AM
    #470
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion [OP] Sounds Gooooood

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    @Greenlemon21 here's an easy way to eliminate the rear drive shaft as an issue (and it's something I did too). Simply remove the shaft. It's 10 bolts. Remove the drive shaft and then go for a drive in 4HI. If the problem is your drive shaft, the problem will go away. If the issue is the transmission, torque converter, or anything up front it will still be there.

    PS: You won't have to worry about driving on dry pavement since the drive train won't bind front to rear due to the rear wheels not even being connected to the drive train; so no worries there. Be advised, if you don't have the truck in 4WD, putting the gear lever into park will do NOTHING since the front and rear wheels aren't attached to the transmission at all. Thus, liberal use of the emergency brake is recommended! :D
     
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  11. Dec 7, 2018 at 10:53 AM
    #471
    Greenlemon21

    Greenlemon21 Member

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    Thanks, I'll give this a shot when I visit my buddy who is more mechanically inclined.
     
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  12. Dec 7, 2018 at 12:05 PM
    #472
    Greenlemon21

    Greenlemon21 Member

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    Although, would this be safe to do at 60mph+? That is the only place I have my issue.
     
  13. Dec 11, 2018 at 9:03 AM
    #473
    jmanscotch

    jmanscotch Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for posting this, Chris.

    I took this info to the local driveline shop in Colorado Springs and their reply was, "Well, the Dana 300 yoke (Spicer 2-4-4341) isn't going to fit snug on the factory splines". They proceeded to go in the back, grab a 2nd gen Tacoma drive shaft and the Spicer piece and slipped them together and showed me the slight play in the splines. They said they could use a Nissan (I presume Frontier) spline shaft that'd fit snug with the Spicer yoke.

    The way it breaks down is;

    DriveShaftMockup.jpg

    A Transfer case output > front piece of rear drive shaft (lengthened)
    B Nissan spline shaft welded on to rear of front shaft
    C Factory center bearing
    D 2-4-4341 yoke > U-Joint > 211355X to bolt u-joint to 2-4-4341
    E 2-26-487 double cardan center > u-joint
    F 2-28-2977X welded to a 3" to 3.5" adapter
    G flipped and shortened rear driveshaft > u-joint > pinion/diff

    The two big issues they seem to be concerned with, regarding your parts list, are:

    1. The splines in the 2-4-4341 don't mate up snug with the factory drive shaft splines (B connecting to D) and mating them together would lead to premature failure.
    2. The spline lengths on the 2-4-4341 are much shorter than the factory driveshaft spline lengths (again, a relationship between B and D). This will cause the drive shaft splines to poke out of the 2-4-4341 too far and they splines would contact the first u-joint in the double cardan joint (the area between D and E)

    To correct this, they'd use a Nissan splined shaft end (B) but will have to lengthen the front shaft (or replace it with longer) to make it all fit in the factory space as the original does. The Nissan part will have a shorter spline shaft that fits the 2-4-4341 both in snugness and length (it's shorter) then build the double cardan as you've shown.

    I'm dropping my driveshaft off today to have the work done and was curious if they mentioned such modifications to yours, as it's not mentioned in the parts list.

    Jake
     
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  14. Dec 11, 2018 at 9:18 AM
    #474
    Mully

    Mully Well-Known Member

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    Did they give you an estimate cost?
     
  15. Dec 11, 2018 at 9:20 AM
    #475
    jmanscotch

    jmanscotch Well-Known Member

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    $350-400 they said. A little more depending on whether they throw in a new stock Spicer CB (~$75) to replace the Ford Ranger one I'm currently running.

    They're a reputable shop, my buddies all have used them in the past for their Jeep repairs.
     
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