Single (and Two) Piece Driveshaft = Vibes....BE GONE!!!

I found a one piece DoubleC driveline for a 2008 for 1 c note on Craigslist slapped it on my 7.5” lifted taco...

BAMMM!









...no more vibes!

The easiest fix ever

 

The bigger the operating angle of each u-joint is, the less life it'll have before needing replaced.

I've seen an article defining this with more exact numbers, but couldn't easily find it in a google search. From what I did find; 3 or so degrees is the ideal maximum constant operating angle for a u-joint.

See: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pinionangles.shtml

 

That is a really good article! I was going to post something up just like that but read yours first and it explains it all well.

This pic is my favorite especially the last diagram

 

It's a good article, but it seems to suggest that strain = vibrations, does it not? So given that I have no vibrations....

Honestly, I feel like I must be straining some component given how wacky the angles look. I'm going to try the cb spacers once I can find M10 bolts long enough, just to see what difference it makes.

 

You can put stress on the joints without causing any vibration but the most common cause of this strain is due to improper angles which most of the time causes vibrations. Here are a couple examples of 2 different ways to set up a 2 piece driveshaft and be good. The first is working with actual U-joint operating angle and the second is set up closer to what the article talks about. From experience building a lot of custom cars and setting up driveshafts it can be a royal PITA these are the rules to start but there are always exceptions, different ways, and just something odd that is a complete headscratcher.

 

For me, strain = u-joint strain aka degree of wear. High strain = fast wear, not necessarily vibrations.

 

I pieced together my driveshaft last night and dropped it off to be shortened and balanced this morning.

Here's the spacer I had made at a local machine shop, they charged me $40! I need my own lathe. The ID was a little under, needed to be 1.125" but mic'd about 3 thou small. Had to open it with a die grinder and flap wheel sanding bit to get it over the splines. OD was spot on 1.496", but the surface finish was lacking and since it's a sealing surface for the center bearing dust seals, I cleaned it up with some cross buffs but that took a while. Length is 0.500" which they parted off about 6 thou long, but I'm not complaining about that. They only chamfered one edge though, just sloppy work.


Here's the pinion yoke installed with the spacer, which you can JUST make out past the steel shroud on the center bearing. The pinion yoke is shorter, and a larger OD (1.552" vs 1.496"). The spacer takes up the length so the nut will still tighten down against the yoke instead of bottoming on the shaft, and it pushes the yoke away from the CB so it doesn't interfere with the steel shroud, which it would. I also used the thin washer that's installed between the factory yoke and the center bearing, it sits against the face of the inner race. It's only about 15 thou thick but I felt better having it there.


Rear shaft flipped with new 1330 joint and orig rear flange yoke.


Fully assembled installed CV, which was a PITA but only because I'd never done one before. I could do it again in half the time. Would be so much easier to just buy an assembled CV off the shelf like some shops have done, but they wind up having to get one with a flange yoke on the front and machining or welding up some sort of pinion flange yoke or adapter. This is a bolt together solution. Different stokes.


Rear and Center together.

 

200 lbs of ice melt on the ass end of your box,,,,,, driveline vibes almost gone..

 

Update: replaced driveshaft and most of the vibes went away.



Now I'm going to shim the axle to remove the <25mph vibe.

 

Finished, ready to go back in. Welded up and balanced out no problem.

 

Have you compiled a parts list for this? I'm sure its on here somewhere and I've just missed it. This looks like a promising solution for quite a few of us on here.

 

I had posted some stuff before, basically copied what others had done, but I was going to go through it and post a final parts list and costs. Might get to that in a bit.

 

That would be great. What did it roughly cost you in parts? That is if you know off the top of your head.

 

Okay I'll try to make this as complete as possible.

New parts front to rear:

Front U-joint -

$25 Spicer 5-1330X U-Joint Kit 1330/SPL25 Series (OSR)

Spicer 5-1330X (non-greasable) - $18
Center support bearing - Spicer 5002007 (this is the 4WD part #) - $90
Machined Spacer - ID 1.125", OD 1.496", L 0.500" - $43
Splined 1310 Series CV end yoke (fits Dana 300) - Spicer 2-4-4341 - $62
1310 Series U-joint for CV -

$27 Spicer 5-1310X U-Joint Kit 1310/SPL22 Series (OSR)

Spicer 5-1310X (non-greasable) - $18
1310 Series CV centering (socket) yoke - Spicer 211544X (non-greasable) - $57
1310 Series Double Cardan H yoke -

$45 Spicer 2-26-497 Center Yoke

Spicer 2-26-497 - $26
1310 Series U-joint for CV - Spicer 5-1310X (non-greasable) - $18
1310 Series CV Ball Stud Weld Yoke - Neapco N2-28-2927X (non-greasable) - $72
3" to 3.5" Increasing Bushing for weld yokes - Neapco 5368 - $35
Rear U-joint - Spicer 5-1330X (non-greasable) - $18

Total parts cost = $457
Cost for CV conversion parts ONLY = $331
(This excludes front and rear U-joints, and center support bearing)

Cost for cut/weld/balance - $165

So my TOTAL cost for this endeavor is $622. That seems like a lot, however:

If I just rebuilt it as-is and had it balanced, I'd have spent about $250.

A complete CV head assembly with a flange yoke on the front to fit a 3.5" tube (Neapco N921054) will run around $240. They you're into fabricating/machining a new flanged pinion yoke to bolt it to - easily $200 parts and labor there. Plus the F/R 1330 joints and CB, you're around $570 in parts, then you have to get the whole thing shortened and balanced so add $165 and you're at $731. Even if you could get a splined pinion flange fabbed for $100 (doubtful) the cost comes out the same.

 

Will be using this in the future. Thanks for putting this together and going all in with this project.

 

Anyone ever try this 2 piece shaft with a double cardan? Instead of using the straps it has the flange set up to mate everything together? I'd be getting a different slip to mate up to my Sterling 10.5 flange with a 1410 joint but this looks like a good set up for people.

http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/CUSTOM_Toyota_drive_shafts.htm

 

Even through the price seems very much too good to be true, I called them. Never got through, dug around a little and found this: http://www.alloffroadaz.com/index.php?topic=163.0

Not worth the risk IMO.

 

Good to know, I wasn't really looking for cheap just strong and DC at the carrier bearing. I might end up building a total custom shaft of 1330 to 1410DC to 1410 at the diff. Unless I can mate a 1410 to a Toyota tcase flange. Read through the thread and there is a lot of good info and parts in here.

 

More negative reviews, and a positive.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gen...yone-running-driveshaft-superstore-shaft.html

 

ONE PIECE ALL YHE WAY!!!!