Skid plate and Sliders Question

Thanks for the compliments...

1. what have you done for your lift? I’m not very knowledgeable about lift products-I have read a lot on TW on the different ways to lift front and rear.

I have 2.5 King shocks with adjusters on all corners. The rears are Tundra shocks, tuned for a Tacoma by Accutune. I have 600 LB King coils in front, with Deaver U402 stage 1 leafs in back. Durobump bumpstops front and back. The rears are extended 4.25" bumps, to account for the larger Tundra shocks. 74 Weld UCA (with JBA bushings installed) and Total Chaos factory length LCA's.

2. What size wheels are those? 16” or 17”?

17" gloss gunmetal SCS Blaze10's with 285/70/17 Cooper Discoverer Rugged Treks (mountain side tread pattern out). This tire size required a CMC and bumper trimming. No rub in any condition now.

3. Brand and size tire? I don’t understand when people say 33 or 35? Tire size like p285-75-R16/17?

285/70/17 which has a 33" diameter and about 10.5" width.

Also, look into the ECGS bushing replacement, to replace the factory needle bearing on the driver's side diff housing.

 

Any suggestion for simple, non-step sliders for a DCSB? I’m 6’1” so I don’t need a step, but a definitely want some solid sliders so I won’t get damage on the way to the mall.

 

Honestly, and manufacturer that's semi local, to avoid freight costs. Most are created fairly equal...

 

Thanks. I’ll see what’s out there.

 

Yep. I went with steel sliders and TRD skid plate. Aluminum sliders were twice the price…

The TRD skid though has been amazing, I was driving through this “river” and bounced on some rocks, besides some dents that thing held up just great.[/QUOTE]

 

I have RCI skids/sliders and like them. I would recommend you do the steel skids if you plan of any substantial wheeling. I went with aluminum to save weight, but I’ve banged mine up pretty good and plan on replacing with steel in the future. I also recommend you do an exhaust relocation and go with the flat transmission skid. I didn’t do enough research and my exhaust rattles all the time which is annoying.

 

Agreed on the exhaust re-route. For the benefit of those who have not seen it ... a picture of mine after. Cost $100 at a muffler shop. Ask in your "regional" forum for a recommendation of a good shop that routes the hot exhaust pipe far enough behind the transfer case electronics.

 

I still don’t understand why the stock exhaust is routed the way it is. Maybe there is a reason for it? Haha who knows

 

I need to stop being lazy and this done. More of a finding time to do it during the work week than a cost thing.

 

If you're choosing, I wonder if no fill plate is better. I think that looks better. Wish I had that but not really a choice. Bought my sliders cheaper used, came with dimpled fill plates.
I heard this is more of a thing for other people getting in your truck, if you have kids, dogs, etc.
but a small dog paw can likely still fall through the fill plate hole if stepping there

supposedly fill plates are recommended as additional protection to stop a tree branch spearing through the gap in non-fill plate
but I've never been in that scenario...

Probably cheaper.

Routing it good means effort put into that, position, and possible heat shielding

design it low to hit the ground not really any effort in that

damn. Around here price seems to be $300

 

You missed the sign:

Labor rate:
$30/hr standard
$100/hr if you watch
$200/hr if you help

 

I don't know what you're talkin about
no customer is there when the work is being performed

1. $30/hr here is illegal
2. side work is $50/hr. Shop with overhead to cover would be more. Typical dealer rate is $230/hr, so independent somewhere between there.

regardless, been quoted $200-300 from 2 or 3 shops.
Don't know if that's because of the state higher cost of everything, or shop intends to do more work rather than basic

add a resonator was $60 OTD but that was a few years ago and in a different state where an apartment was $600/mo at the time and gas was $2-3

 

It was meant to be a joke ... I have seen this in shops before (see picture). I do not know why this shop charged $100 and they charge you $300. Maybe the shop I used values being the referral shop and values quantity over price for this factor. Maybe it is locality or being a one-off shop for this or tries to add-on product.

 

RCI FULL SKIDS , sliders , diff diaper , LCA SKIDS , rear high clearance bumper , gas tank skid.
Definitely do the exhaust re route