Skid plate: steel vs aluminum

I think I'll go with one that has a cut out for oil changes. That just seems much simpler.

 

steel all day....

 

Most of them do. And before you put the skids on, the fumoto drain valve makes it easy to drain the oil. Especially if you get the version with the nipple, then you can snap on a hose.

 

Just added the Fumoto plug with anticipation of this.

 

The other thing about steel is that dents can be pounded back without cracking (or heated if necessary). Aluminum takes very little cold working before it will crack.

 

@Mobtown Offroad

Excellent customer service and product. My IFS skid was damaged by FedEx in transit and was sent back. As soon as Joe found out about it he sent me a new one before he received the damaged one. I just got it in yesterday so it's not prepped and sprayed yet.


IFS



Transfer case & Tranny

 

What are you using to spray on those?

 

I added pics of the transfer case & tranny skid.

Self etching primer then Rustoleum rattle can bed liner.

 

I just painted the budbuilt skids on the 4Runner. Rustoleum primer and hammered finish. Smooth and very tough.

 

Steel is real!

 

Beauty mate... I just installed mine yesterday. Was easier than lubing my truck!

Steel FTW - remember this plate takes the place of some OEM braces for the frame. The steel will stiffen this area up some over stock, not sure how the Aluminum skid helps with stiffening??

So I went Steel and powder coated rattle can finish. Dropped my front end .25"

 

Most rust is only surface rust, it will take 10 years for that plate to eat away, as long as you wahs the mud out occasionally it will last as long as the truck.

 

Has anybody went with a mix of steel and aluminum? Steel on the most frequent place to get hit and aluminum on the other's?

 

sorry, noob question here... im trying to install a TRD skid plate, but do i take out the black factory ones and then put the TRD skid OR leave the black factory ones and put the TRD skid over it? Please help! Again, sorry.. noob here.

 

Yes. I went with aluminum for the front skid and gas tank. Steel for mid and transfer. I don't intend to bash it hard so aluminum will be sufficient for the front and gas tank. Steel for mid/belly area invade I high center and the truck is resting on the skids. Steel will handle it better. Driving it know what its limitations are and try not destroy it completely is my goal.

 

Pretty sure you remove the black ones.

 

Well-
I'll be the opposite. I get to the trail occasionally and am setting up my rig for overland. It won't rock crawl, but will hit a rock on the trail. It's also a daily driver.
It's crazy to lug around all the extra weight of steel for the occasional rock encounter. The aluminum is more than strong enough to cope with that and literally a 1/4 the weight.

As for hybrid, I'd actually do the opposite- steel IFS skid and aluminum mid bodies. Your far more likely to hit rocks on approach than mid centered.

I think it's important to decide on need:
- for budget, steel, but consider weight impacts to gas mileage through time
- for longer term savings and lighter use, aluminum

I'm not too worried about rust or corrosion, I fluid film every fall in prep for those New England winters

 

Thanks!!

 

The total weight difference between the RCI steel and aluminum IFS, transmission, and transfer case skids is only 42 lbs. So I went with the stronger steel.

 

Likewise. And after wrecking my front steel skid, I'm so glad I didn't go with aluminum. I have mobtown skids