Sleeper mods - power rear slider

Hey guys. I am new to the group but I have been reading up on things for a while now while working on my 2012 so I can appreciate the value of the info here. Lots of impressive work out there. I have a power sliding rear window mod that I did a while back (after reviewing the ones on the forum) that I think folks might be interested in. I used a flat panel window actuator from Balls Rod and Custom. I had to cut almost all of the connecting plate off the slider, and drill an awkward vertical hole in the channel that runs across the back of the cab, but it makes for a very low profile assembly that hides under the panels of the rear cab wall. I'll drop in a video once I figure out how to get it on here. Not looking to sell it but just share. I fabbed the bracket for the glass myself, and while it works, I want it to be better. I didn't get an auto stop switch either, so if I run it to long, I mess up the bracket.

 

Welcome to TW.

Videos can't be hosted here but you can direct link a video from YouTube or similar.

 

Welcome to TW btw

 

I have to do this mod still, that's one of the things I miss the most about my last truck!

 

I want someone to mod a first gen Tundra rear window in so the whole thing window lowers

 

PLEASE TAKE MY MONEY IF SOMEONE FIGURES THIS OUT

 

Welcome. That's a great mod!

 

Ok, good to know about the videos. Here are the two video videos I put on you tube with and without panels on the back wall. I want to say I put about $150 into the parts. If I can find the pics of the install process I'll post them as well. They may be lost to a broken phone at this point though...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rkANaxdP0U
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWfMjAEJ58s

 

Whatttt that's awesome!

 

Thanks!

 

Get a 4runner

 

Believe me I want one pretty bad. Selling the truck is always on my mind

 

Here are the pics from the install. I figured since I was in there, I should add some Dynamat as well.

- The actuator fits in the void between the cubby holes in the panels.
- Then I removed the guide rail and mounting plate from the actuator as they took up too much space and aren't necessary anyway.
- Next I drilled a hole in the channel running under the window. This is the most challenging part. It's tough to get a drill in and there is an inner flange that you can't see from the out side, so I drilled a hole from the bottom, one from the top, then had to use a rat tail file to open up the hole in that center flange. I had to hold the drill at an angle so the three holes don't make a straight line the way I did it.
- Once I could slide the tube with the actuator cable in it through the hole, I fabricated a couple of small loop style brackets to capture it in place. Between the two small brackets and the actuator mount, it's very stable. I also trimmed off the upper tab shown in the pics below so it wouldn't hit the edge of the panel. I did have to trim some molded gussets off the back side of the panel to create the clearance. I was not bothered by that as the gussets are very thin and flexible.
- The second most challenging part was the bracket to connect to the window. It is a 16 gage(don't quote me on that) sheet of steel that I formed around the slider portion of the window when I had it out of the track. While technically more difficult than drilling the hole, the consequences of failure are less intimidating (i.e. accidentally broken glass)
- You can see in one of the last shots, how the actuator fits behind the panel.
- Lastly, the switch I used is to the left of the A-TRAC button. I couldn't find one that would fit with a left right arrow, so I wired it to use down to open and up to close...

 

Welcome!

 

Nice, this would be a pretty useful mod.