Sleeping Platform & Dog

Thanks for suggesting high-top camper shell and ventilator. I now have a 2000 Pre-Runner SR5 TRD, came with only 104K miles on it. I am looking for a high top camper shell now.
Do you think your design would work with my bedliner (not spray on)? It is a Pendaliner with "molded in board holders" in the Pendaliner walls, fore and aft of the wheels. I suppose I could use the bed frame to spread the liner walls up against the truck-bed walls; maybe put some wood between the bed-frame and the pendaliner to protect the Pendaliner and spread the force against the Pendaliner?

You mention possibly using 2" by 6" boards instead of OSB. I assume you mean cutting them to fit and laying them side by side across the length or width of the bed frame, with no gaps? Would you suggest positioning them head to toe, or side to side? I think side to side would benefit from the center support; head to toe might sag, do you think?

Great to have your ideas to build on, and you are an enthusiastic and wise adviser. Don't hold back!!!!

 

Which mattress from ikea is that?

 

Yikes!

Sry Archer550, cant remember, too many years ago.

Just remember freaking out when Char dropped a hundy at Ikea on my $15 dollar project!

It was $$ but as much use as it gets, it was well worth it and a wise investment.

Jnossoff:
You will def like the high top.
The best thing about building projects is ull figure stuff out, ull change stuff and ull invent something entirely new.
"Just Do It"

 

This is what you want. Waterproof and ultra durable. No its not cheap but its awesome.

http://www.jpwinc.com/products/proddetail.php?prod=4280-pickup-paco

 

Thanks, I have a mini-project to get my wife out camping...I love the motivation to keep it on the cheap as well. I have located an inexpensive bed frame and found a futon mattress on CL for $15. I figure with a thorough cleaning it will be doable with a sleeping bag...I just need some short storage boxes...thanks!

 

Great Build man!!! Definately a comfy add on!!! GO UOFA CATS!!!!!!

 

Hello ScampTramp, and thanks for the great ideas and encouragement. You can see the "high top" I got in my photo; got a Leer 122 with Windoors (GREAT FEATURE, allows easy access from sides, also good ventilation in heat and in rain).

I did the bed frame. Instead of hex head bolts, I used carriage bolts, with a smooth, round head. Also, I gained ability to make minor height adjustments with a nut and a "jam" nut on each bolt/leg.

For the sharp, protruding ends of the bed frame I bought, at Amazon, 1 1/2" GashGuards: Deluxe Plastic Bed Frame End Caps, Sheet Savers, Set of 2 at

$11 1 1/2" GashGuards: Deluxe Plastic Bed Frame End Caps, Sheet Savers, Set of 2

http://www.amazon.com/GashGuards-Deluxe-Plastic-Frame-Savers/dp/B005JS8ZKA

Bought the same plastic boxes (at Target) you have, but the "underbed" variety, with rollers/wheels that track nicely in the grooves of the bed-liner, and do not significantly increase the height of the box, since the wheels are down in the recessed grooves. (Depends on whether your bed liner grooves are same width as the rollers/wheels; mine are)

Also, instead of the hot-dog fork, at the local RV and trailer supply, bought a tool that RVers use to grab and adjust their awnings. It extends and retracts like a radio antenna, and has a nice hook on the end. Extends to 6 feet, closes to about 18 inches. Very sturdy! Good for snagging the boxes, and any other items under or on top of the bed.

Yes, condensation is a problem at low temps, and also when raining outside. Liner on the camper shell does not gather wet condensation, but hard surfaces (windows, window frames, tailgate) do get wet.

We are using "Thermarest"-type camping mattresses (at Costco, $39.00 each) rather than futon mattresses, and no carpet, just sheet vinyl floor tile stapled over the wood. With the high top shell, and thinner mattress, we can sit up and turn over/around on the bed (just barely!). The mattresses compress and store when not in use.

Another feature: a 12-volt heated blanket, plugs in to cigarette lighter accessory in the truck bed. Long haul truckers use them in their sleeper cabs, bought mine at a major truck stop. Use it just to pre-heat my wife's sleeping bag. I haven't left it on all night for fear of draining the truck battery.

For ventilation I have considered (but not decided) 24 Hour Day/Night Solar Vents. See at:
http://www.delzer.com/powerproducts/MAR_CAT_003/#92
OR
http://truck-hardware.orrorr.com/vi...ries-fans-vents-solar-vent-24-hour-day-night?

Anyway, thanks again, hope my info is helpful to someone!

 

This is the way I will be going. After debating back and forth between wood and metal bed frame, the metal bed frame will be what I use. Sure, the wood platforms I've seen on here & the internet look amazing, but I'm going to go with the simplicity and ease of the bed frame.

What sucks is that I was at my daughter's apartment yesterday, and I saw a bed frame sitting by the dumpster. I couldn't grab it as I was in my wife's Corolla, and we were heading out for a day trip. After the trip, I grabbed my truck and dropped my daughter off. Bed frame was gone.

@jnossoff Thanks for bringing this thread back up. Do you have any pictures of your set up?

 

O.K,@JPinFL thanks for your interest, you motivate me to take photos and post. Maybe this week. Good luck on finding the bed frame, I had the same problem, I thought they would be easier to find (free) and ended up buying one at a thrift shop. and it required some mods, including adding a center rail of angle iron, drilling to add the angle iron, and drilling out the protruding fasteners that normally hold the frame together. I wish I had found a way to make it in two separate ("twin") units for versatility. Downside, that would add weight and reduce under-bed storage when they are both installed, and likely create a larger gap between the parallel platforms. Upside would allow me to dangle my legs while sitting up, and get in and out easier.Mine is bolted together with the shortest carriage bolts I could find, and plastic screw caps over the slightly protruding threaded ends to avoid gashes and scratching. I will take some photos soon.

 

@jnossoff Thanks man. I appreciate your words. It helps learning from other people's experiences.

The wife and I just got back from the beach, and will be hitting up some thrift stores in a few. If I can find something for cheap, I don't mind doing some mods here and there. That's the fun part, even if it gives me a little bit of frustration. Beers will help with that part.

Looking forward to your pics.

 

Regarding the reducing and preventing heat and condensation build-up inside, see thread at: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/adding-a-roof-vent-to-a-fiberglass-topper-shell.333187/page-3
My notes are #60, posted 3/21/2016

 

I STRONGLY SUGGEST YOUR READ THIS THREAD FROM BEGINNING TO END BEFORE ASKING ANY QUESTIONS!

Thanks, again, to @ScampTramp for starting this thread, and sharing his brilliant innovations. I will take the liberty of "borrowing" some of ScampTramps photos, since they were not published here, but by reference at http://s941.photobucket.com/albums/ad254/phlyphishers/sleeping platform/
ADVICE RE:BEDFRAME
I had a hard time finding just the right bedframe. @ScampTramp did a great job:

(photo by @ScampTramp grabbed from http://s941.photobucket.com/albums/ad254/phlyphishers/sleeping platform/ )
What makes this an excellent bedframe?
1) Center rail with legs at the center, not just the corners. Mine had no center rail or legs, so I had to cut and drill angle iron to make a center rail.
2. Very heavy duty angle iron. With the very rigid angle iron I did not need the center legs, which improved access to underbed storage. If I had his bedframe, I would cut the center legs off.
3. Adjustable to the width of the truck bed. (Most bed frames are adjustable to exactly twin, double, queen, and/or king widths)
4. He found it cheap! ($15 at Thrift Store)
MY IMPROVEMENTS:
1. I drilled out or cut off all the fasteners that normally hold a bed frame together, and fastened the rails together with short hex bolts, nuts, and lock washers. This allows you to spread the bed frame to the width of your truck bed for a fairly tight fit.
2. For legs, instead of inserting hex bolts, I used carriage bolts with "jam" nuts to make the legs height adjustable, and a rubber chair foot.
The bolt that serves as a leg is inserted into the part of the bed frame that normally receives a caster. That bed part is tapered and I drove the bolt in with a rubber mallet, until it bottomed out. The LENGTH of the bolt depends on two variables: a) the DEPTH of the bedframe foot and b)the HEIGHT that you want your bed frame. I wanted the frame to rest slightly above the wheel wells, but high enough to accommodate my storage boxes. This maximizes headroom on top of the bed. The NUT and the "JAM" NUT allowed me to make slight adjustments in the height of the frame. If the bedframe foot is not tapered, you will likely require the nut and the jam nut to adjust height. The DIAMETER of the bolt depends on the inner diameter of the bedframe foot; it should fit snugly and insert as far into the bedframe foot as possible. (HINT: if you have to remove the bolt, simply grab the square head with a wrench and unthread it. You don't thread it IN, but you can thread it OUT.)

 

MORE re Bedframe Sleeping Platform
Here's photos of the GashGuard application:

http://www.amazon.com/GashGuards-Deluxe-Plastic-Frame-Savers/dp/B005JS8ZKA

 

MORE BedFrame Sleeping Platform hacks:

Tool for snagging under-bed storage. Extends to 6 feet. Stores compactly. I added the white screw protector tip. Purchased at RV Supply Store, normally used to adjust RV Awnings.


Cushion/Insulating pad. $9.99 at Harbor Freight. Assemble 3 of the 4 pieces into a rectangle 25" x 75" (rather than 4 pieces into a square 50"x50") Accommodates one sleeper. Only 1/2 " thick, maximizes headroom. After piecing together the pieces of the "puzzle" I taped the seams on the backside with Gorilla Tape. The remaining 4th piece I cut into a cushion/liner for the inside of the tailgate, makes climbing in easier on the knees!

Sterilite® ClearView Latch™ 60 Qt Storage Tote - Clear with Purple Latch $15.99 at Target
http://www.target.com/p/sterilite-c...-13794500#prodSlot=medium_1_14&term=sterilite