Sleeving 1gr help

URD stage 3 sc and my motor, just rebuilt, blown again. It was built with larger pistons. I don’t know the details of the build because it was a huge issue to get my truck back. I know it was built with larger piston because the machine shop said he needs pistons 30 over. Whatever that number means. The crank was grounded down already so I just ordered a new oem crankshaft.
I have searching for motors and they’re not cheap. I know going into this I’ll be spending 4-5k here in jersey.
Pistons 8-900
Rods 8-900
Bearings 3-400?
Misc gaskets/head studs etc 1500?
Labor is 1500 flat.
I will be boosting it again for sure.
Sleeve kit is $1500

Here my question, should I spend the money on sleeving the block if it will be able to handle stage 3.
Do I spend 3k on a used motor and step down to stage 2?
I’ve already lost 6k on the first build. I don’t want to do this a third time.

 

@Torspd @mightytacoman both had their 1GRs sleeved. Perhaps they can chime in

 

I actually was messaging him and never got to asking him.

 

i dont see why a correctly built and sleeved motor couldnt handle that stage 3. my blind guess would be incorrect assembly or not proper break in. best of luck brother.

 

When it was first built, it wasn’t sleeved. It was bored .020”. Now I have to find pistons that are .030” or sleeve the block or get another motor

 

@Torspd has more 1st hand experience than anyone. he's also willing to help people. you'll get it going strong soon.

 

What broke? How much boost were you running?

 

I though you couldn’t bore the 1GR ….

 

correctly assembled 1grfe should hold 20psi. i doubt urd would make that.

 

Not if you're sane.

 

oh. yes you can. with the right monies these motors can turn 800hp. cant do that with stock specs.

 

Main bearing and oil pump failure. There were no gauges because it was boosted the day before. Barely 10 miles. My dumbass decided to conduct a spirited launch and spun a bearing and caused oil pump failure. Oil filter was bone dry.

 

So the oil level was low? Are you using the 4x4 deep pan?

You said the crank was ground already, did you also spin a bearing before?

 

was using the stick oil pan. After it blew again I bought the coupe spacer.
Yes I spun a bearing. Oil level was low and I didn’t know. I barely drove it

 

So how does that work? A few thousandths and your into the aluminum block

 

there is a very specific break in period. fluids and rpm for 500miles. that should have been made very clear by your engine builder. if you ignored....if they failed to tell you shame on them.

 

So I did run it about 5-600 miles before boosting.

 

hmmm.. nothing should fail like that twice done correctly. im just throwing ideas out to help you diagnose. theyre price is too cheap for comfort. i just today got a quote for 2300 to put my new cams in. just camshafts.

 

I don’t think I need to build anything but the bottom end. Stage 3 to play all day. Nothing else needed

 

or the tuning is fucked. @JustDSM is an absolute wizzard. he may have some help. super awesome guy.