Sleeving 1gr help

Using urd ucon

 

i envy you some day i want a stock spec 7k motor. ive had 10-12 psi on an all stock block for 70k miles. no trouble.

 

hp tuners is where its at. justdsm is the mastermind. id error to blame incorrect tune

 

I say I don’t need to build anything but the bottom end is there’s others with the same sc stage 3 both built and stock. Built bottom end and stock heads

 

hp tuner thread i think will bring many if not all the answers.

 

He said that he oil starved it both times?

I would assume the STG3 URD is pushing things a little harder so at minimum pistons & rods would be a good idea. Especially if there is an issue with the tune..

 

most kits have guide tolerences to prevent this. first is owner error (like me) going all out preme. then tuning or mechanical shortcoming of install. i dont know every detail but alwalys like helping a yota brother out. .

 

my best sboot from the hip guess is non proper breakin. or improper assembly of internals/tune of new stuff. im no pro but my truck is tuned rather hot. and ive messed up most of it due to my own ignorance. but... thatats how i learn....at 12psi. /hp headaches for life.

 

Is the engine apart?

Did only the rod bearings spin, or did the mains spin as well? If the mains spun, then the bores for the main bearings are messed up too. That is harder to repair.

Figure that out first.

Sleeves are always good.

 

Main bearings spun from what I was told. I have another block I might use if I don’t sleeve it. I have a few questions and I can’t find yes/no answers.

Did anyone sleeve their block?
how much power can a sleeved block handle?
Should I Bore .010” and sleeve and use oversized pistons?
Do I have it bored .020” and sleeve it?
I don’t know how to measure a block so I don’t know how thick the cylinder walls are and I’m going on what a machine shop is telling me.
again, I know nothing about the internals so I have little to zero clue. I’m here reading all these posts and there isn’t straight answer. I asked if anyone knows these motors and you’re mentioned in all the replies.

 

Just spoke to my machine shop and he’s NOT willing to sleeve the block I currently have. It was bored before

 

I and a few others have sleeved their blocks with Darton M.I.D. sleeves. Gadget from URD and I worked to get the first sleeves made. I supplied the sacrificial block, he had Darton do the rest.

Here is what it looks like.



As you can see, it does not matter if the original cylinders were over bored. They will be completely machined out and replaced with these. Then you bore these sleeves to the diameter that you need. Stock, a little over, or even a good deal over. I don't recommend more than .060" over. Less contact patch for the head gasket. Which has to be ordered from Cometic. Unless you choose to do a stock bore diameter.

No point in putting sleeves in a block that has bad main bearing races, if bearings cannot be found to fit after machining. A block that did not have spun main bearings is much better choice.

The sleeves only improve the rigidity of the block. Making it stronger in turn. As well as repairable. The upgraded rods and pistons, with head studs increase the power handling capability.

We're you able to find out which machine shop that @mightytacoman used?

 

Long time no see @FinnJ

 

lot of terminology droppin here = ‘ conversational HP ‘

a stock block is weak...................sleeves are strong resulting in the block moving around under stress

sleeves Do NOT solve problems

when U indicate the engine is ‘ blown ‘ .......U do NOT speak where or what broke

cant remedy issues NOT identified

poor assembly will lead to catastrophic results

tooooo much tuning will break a weak engine ........too much boost or tooooo much ignition or both

a 20thou over would have cleaned up the block to be certain bores are straight

not sure th focus ‘ grinding the crank ‘ ????

stock crank cant handle bigger pistons .....more boost...... more RPMs

it just cant

so was it bad assembly

bad components

bad tune

or bad expectations

 

not sure th focus ‘ grinding the crank ‘ ????

Most probable that the crank was damaged and the journals were machined good. Also meaning that larger bearings were used, or now being damaged again, that the repairing the crank would take it out of acceptable tolerances. Thus a newer crank is needed.

stock crank cant handle bigger pistons .....more boost...... more RPMs

it just cant

The crank can handle all of that. It is the OEM rods and pistons that cannot. My big bore engine has a stock crank. With way over bored cylinders. Making it somewhere around a 4.13 Liter. 6200 and 17 psi (turbo).

Another boosted 1GR, has twin turbos, upgraded internals, OEM crank, and no sleeves. APR head studs. Makes around 800 whp. Don't remember the exact figure, but it is in the YouTube video, and description.

 

i keep Re- reading originl post

there is mention of much he does NOT know

no less what U remark about IS very different than what He points out

to make substantial HP its important to have a comprehensive start................UNlikely to blow up once

highly UNlikely to blow up twice

next time they run a virgin modified toyota V6 then modified to 800HP.................id like to be standing in the dyno room

no less SuperCharger HP stresses an engine differently than Turbo HP

 

https://youtu.be/DInFfStbw5g

 

I would never bore a Toyota aluminum block. I never touched my block. And did rods and pistons. With Toyota bearings and gaskets. I think it’s the way to go. Unless you are sleeping the motor.

 

Thoughts @xrunnahnj ?

 

no way sleeving will remedy oil starvation lower end

rod or main bearings

while U are building diff parts of engine........adding HP

better oil pump ????

diff ECU ( AEM )........even a tune might not compensate for HP increase

Balance ...... simply swinging more weight at higher RPM increases loads dramatically