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Slipping transmission

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by YotaComa99, Jun 1, 2016.

  1. Jun 1, 2016 at 3:46 PM
    #1
    YotaComa99

    YotaComa99 [OP] Guy who should have read the directions

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    Im new to the forum, so I apologize if this isn't in the right category.... anyway here goes.

    1999 Tacoma, 2.4l 2wd.
    Changed transmission fluid about 2 weeks ago, all I did was drain the pan and replace the filter with an O'Reiley power torque brand replacement.

    Yes the fluid was brown, 135k. I know that's a no-no but it has been changed before so I figured it couldn't hurt if I don't flush it and just do a drain and fill (was hoping to slowly reacclimate it to good fluid)

    Today is the first time it's slipped, I had just started it after it had been sitting in the driveway for 2 days. Pulled it into garage, and halfway in it lost power for about 2 seconds, then grabbed again and finished pulling into garage. The transmission fluid level looks a little overfilled, (the dipstick has hot and cold marks, it's way above the hot mark when cold) so I plan to check it when it's hot.

    My question is, could the high fluid level have caused that slip? Should I just drain the pan and change the filter again (a friend of mine thinks the filter may hAve clogged) or should I stop touching the fluid and siphon the excess out of the top... any help is appreciated guys. I'm just trying to keep the taco running.
     
  2. Jun 1, 2016 at 6:59 PM
    #2
    NvrSyNvr

    NvrSyNvr Well-Known Member

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    I would get the fluid level dialed in first. If you do not have a drain plug, you could consider disconnecting one of the cooling lines to drain fluid as well. You might have to do some homework to figure out which one if you go this route.

    A few more thoughts as well...
    • You probably got the right fluid? Worth checking since it is cheaper than major service.
    • Did you happen to note the contents of the bottom of the pan? Did the amount and type of debris suggest the filter could get clogged? Or that there could be bigger issues?
    • Also, I think the torque specs on the filter bolts is pretty light (probably less than 10lbs). Torquing them too tight could warp the valve body that the filter is connected too. Warping the valve body could cause pressure leakage across hydraulic circuits in the valve body. I think this is unlikely with the filter bolts but worth considering.
     
  3. Jun 1, 2016 at 7:07 PM
    #3
    YotaComa99

    YotaComa99 [OP] Guy who should have read the directions

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    887s on 5100s, OME HD springs, ECGS bushing, LR UCAs, leer 100r, non-OEM TRD pro grille (sensors work). It'll be an overland rig one day.
    Thanks NvrSyNvr for the reply. It does have a drain plug, so I'll get the fluid level right hopefully tomorrow. The Pan was spotless on the fluid change. Not a single fleck of metal of sludge of any kind. As far as the torque spec on the filter, I didnt put it on myself my friend did but he was aware to put the bolts in gently and we used a snap-on flat ratchet that has a pretty low torque. So I think it should be ok.

    So little fluid was actually changed that it is still brown from the dipstick... have you ever heard of that small amount of fluid change causing damage to a transmission?

    For the fluid type it calls for dexron II, I put in Mobil 1 synthetic and which says it's a suitable replacement. Maybe I should go to Toyota for fluid?
     
  4. Jun 2, 2016 at 7:18 AM
    #4
    Captain Magma

    Captain Magma Well-Known Member

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    Just had mine changed yesterday and the tech mentioned something about the possibility of it slipping if you haven't had it changed in a long time then get it changed.

    Had to do with the transmission being used to working through higher friction of the old fluid then suddenly being introduced to the slick new fluid.

    Hope this helps!
     
  5. Jun 2, 2016 at 7:30 AM
    #5
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    Change it again, w/o pulling the pan/filter. Just a drain and fill. Drive it a bit and change again. Keep doing until the fluid on the stick looks close to the fresh fluid you are putting in.

    If your pan was clean it's very unlikely the new filter is clogged from anything. But a pan drain is only getting a portion of the capacity, and the new is mixing with the old, so it will take a few drain/fill cycles to get it all nice and fresh.

    However, related to the brown of your old fluid. Did it have any burnt smell at all? If so, this fluid changing may or may not be helpful. Heat is the killer of automatics, and if the disc material is burnt, it's only a matter of time.........
     
  6. Jun 2, 2016 at 10:57 AM
    #6
    mobious212

    mobious212 Well-Known Member

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    Maybe it's the fluid? I used Valvoline Max life which is a full synthetic and Is pretty much universal.
     
  7. Jun 3, 2016 at 11:17 AM
    #7
    PyrettaBlaze

    PyrettaBlaze Well-Known Member

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    Not to change the topic, more asking a question if anything while we're on the topic of transmissions.

    Mine got changed 2 years ago, hasn't done 20k miles in between now and then. Fluid isn't sludgy at all, just really dark red with a slightly burned smell. Shifts smooth. Should I flush or no?

    PSA the diff is getting done in 2 weeks. Not sure it's ever been done.
     
  8. Jun 3, 2016 at 4:50 PM
    #8
    YotaComa99

    YotaComa99 [OP] Guy who should have read the directions

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    Yeah change it
     
  9. Jun 3, 2016 at 7:53 PM
    #9
    PyrettaBlaze

    PyrettaBlaze Well-Known Member

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    Drain and refill or full flush? OR wait until I get a beefed up tranny from IPT and just not worry about a full flush?
     
  10. Jun 4, 2016 at 9:27 AM
    #10
    YotaComa99

    YotaComa99 [OP] Guy who should have read the directions

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    887s on 5100s, OME HD springs, ECGS bushing, LR UCAs, leer 100r, non-OEM TRD pro grille (sensors work). It'll be an overland rig one day.
    Well if your getting a new tranny, why even bother with this one? If your planning to keep it, as long as the fluid is still reddish in color id flush it. But either do it yourself or take it somewhere that does it without one of those aggressive machines
     
  11. Jun 4, 2016 at 1:30 PM
    #11
    PyrettaBlaze

    PyrettaBlaze Well-Known Member

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    IPT is quite a ways away as of right now, so this one is going to have to do for now. I'm having a little boy in about 6 weeks so my money is gone for the next few years :p
     
  12. Jun 4, 2016 at 1:52 PM
    #12
    YotaComa99

    YotaComa99 [OP] Guy who should have read the directions

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    887s on 5100s, OME HD springs, ECGS bushing, LR UCAs, leer 100r, non-OEM TRD pro grille (sensors work). It'll be an overland rig one day.
    Congratulations Budd. I'd service the transmission for now especially if you have the burning smell . Check the pan for metal of course
     
  13. Jun 4, 2016 at 1:58 PM
    #13
    smmarine

    smmarine Well-Known Member

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    I did a complete flush at 165k on my 99 Prerunner. I never had an issue and the shifts were better after I flushed it. I would say keep flushing it
     
  14. Jun 6, 2016 at 5:39 AM
    #14
    PyrettaBlaze

    PyrettaBlaze Well-Known Member

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    I will put that plan in motion here soon, and throw a new filter under it just to be safe.
     

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