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Sloppy play in steering wheel...GONE

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Ksnow89, Apr 7, 2015.

  1. Apr 7, 2015 at 10:46 AM
    #1
    Ksnow89

    Ksnow89 [OP] Member

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    I have a 03 trd, 85xxx miles. I have been chasing this problem for years and years trying to figure it out. It was never enough to be worried about, but just enought to piss me off. Finally a good friend of mine to me to "get on TW and lurk around for a while you will find something im sure. Atleast something that will point you in the right direction." So I did, and somewhere it said to try this.. It looks difficult at first and i was worried but really isnt no problem. http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=161689 and It cured the problem! So basically, Thanks TW for helping me find this issue and fixing it.
     
  2. Apr 7, 2015 at 1:53 PM
    #2
    Snowman

    Snowman I have a problem for your solution…

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  3. Apr 7, 2015 at 2:08 PM
    #3
    Fernando

    Fernando ! GIT-SUM !

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    welcome to the club....That irritated me soo bad! Now its all fixed :D
     
  4. Apr 7, 2015 at 2:32 PM
    #4
    roehoe72

    roehoe72 Well-Known Member

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    X2
     
  5. Apr 8, 2015 at 4:53 PM
    #5
    20vmki

    20vmki Well-Known Member

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    I also did this mod, but a different way. You can remove the clamshell and 3 bolts later have the steering wheel off. A lot less trim to remove. Also, I used a spring pin to remove my slop, as I can't weld :p

    IMG_20150303_184000_9a50241e8f4711b35a9ef69f2dc32fa5b3d095a3.jpg
     
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  6. Apr 8, 2015 at 5:06 PM
    #6
    keakar

    keakar Well-Known Member

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    used to have - 99 2.4L I4 5 lug & 04 prerunner v6
    so what year trucks have this issue? or is it all first gens?
     
  7. Apr 8, 2015 at 8:16 PM
    #7
    roehoe72

    roehoe72 Well-Known Member

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    I did it the same way, not cause i cant weld. But because my theory is if the tack breaks in an impact it will still not be able to collapse because the tack will be too big to slide into the other piece.. Make sense?
     
  8. Apr 8, 2015 at 8:37 PM
    #8
    Mikeybuck

    Mikeybuck Well-Known Member

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    I need to do this
     
  9. Apr 8, 2015 at 8:40 PM
    #9
    bry838

    bry838 Well-Known Member

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    Can you elaborate a little more on how you removed the unit without dismantling so much? I've read the writups but sounds like you got a better less extensive way.
     
  10. Apr 8, 2015 at 8:58 PM
    #10
    roehoe72

    roehoe72 Well-Known Member

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    Its this simple... Remove knee panel, remove clam shells around column, disconnect all plugs under clam shells, remove two upper tilt springs (these can be a bitch, but they aren't TOO bad) remove two allen bolts at the pivot point for the tilt, remove bolt at the clamp near firewall. I think there is another screw that has to deal with the wire connector braket. Remove column. Dont worry about bench marking it down by the pedal, it can only go in one way. Its a spline connection and one spline is bigger than the rest. It took me an hour at most. Best mod ive done to date. ABSOLUTELY NO SLOP ANYMORE...
     
  11. Apr 9, 2015 at 10:25 AM
    #11
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool DIXIE CHICKEN 8:55

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    Last edited: Jan 17, 2017
  12. Jan 17, 2017 at 9:56 AM
    #12
    natas1321

    natas1321 mischief monkey

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    revival of a old thread but I finally did this and now wish I had done this sooner, feels like a new truck.
     
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  13. Jan 17, 2017 at 10:39 AM
    #13
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne Average Contributor

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    This is on my list to do. Did you weld it yourself?
     
  14. Jan 17, 2017 at 10:51 AM
    #14
    natas1321

    natas1321 mischief monkey

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    no had a friend do it, I just took it apart and went to his house and it took him all of less than two minutes to weld it.
     
  15. Jan 17, 2017 at 10:52 AM
    #15
    natas1321

    natas1321 mischief monkey

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    nice thing is that it only cost me a few beers
     
  16. Jan 17, 2017 at 11:54 AM
    #16
    Caligula

    Caligula It's the COVFEFE

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    Interesting mod. Though isnt that slip joint present in order to allow the steering column to collapse in the event of an impact that would force the steering rack towards the cab, preventing the steering column from impaling the driver? Just sayin.
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2017
    mechanicjon, DrZ and cruiserguy like this.
  17. Jan 17, 2017 at 12:03 PM
    #17
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Yeah that's why it's supposed to be just a small tack weld. So it can still collapse if needed.
     
  18. Jan 17, 2017 at 12:06 PM
    #18
    frizzman

    frizzman Well-Known Member

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    quite literally the entire engine has to come through the firewall as the rack is behind the cross-member. it also sits low enough that it would rock back against the bottom of the firewall not pushing the bar up. the steering wheel goes to the firewall then almost vertically straight down to the rack, unlike other trucks that have a steering box
     
  19. Jan 20, 2017 at 12:12 AM
    #19
    bry838

    bry838 Well-Known Member

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    ^^^^very good point!!

    Along with the small spot weld to easily break theory there is also the brass pin method, that would certainly break before the column went through your chest...

    I agree with the Frizz though, it would really take a perfect situation to send the steering assembly into the driver and at that point id bet the collision would be so catastrophic that the slip joint pry wouldnt help much anyways...
     
  20. Jan 20, 2017 at 12:41 AM
    #20
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    The design is to prevent the driver from blunt force injuries when slammed forward. Also absorbs energy to lesson the injuries caused from drivers forward motion. If something pushes the column that far into the cab, the drivers already pushing against it and things could or they're going to get deadly.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2017

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