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Sloppy Steering Column Fix

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by betterbuckleup, Jul 26, 2017.

  1. Jul 26, 2017 at 5:42 PM
    #1
    betterbuckleup

    betterbuckleup [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I looked around on TW and I couldn't find a fix for a sloppy steering column, but when I looked around elsewhere I found this thread.

    http://www.ttora.com/forum/2-early-tacoma-tech/161689-diagnose-fix-steering-play-rattle.html

    Route1286 wrote a really nice how to on taking out the steering column in the cab and doing a fix to eliminate any slop between the shafts.

    Planning on doing this fix in the next couple weeks. I will be using this thread as a guide.
    Thought I would just leave this hear for others to check out
     
  2. Jul 26, 2017 at 6:08 PM
    #2
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Taco-mas!

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    @mechanicjon used a roll pin instead of welding it - I may go the same route so I don't have to pay anyone to weld it.
     
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  3. Jul 26, 2017 at 6:11 PM
    #3
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    yep roll pin is much easier. 1/8 inch home depot roll pin. Hole is already there, you just have to drill it a little bigger.
     
  4. Jul 26, 2017 at 7:11 PM
    #4
    rybern

    rybern Well-Known Member

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    Yep, its on my to do list. Lots of info in that thread. It seems like someone even mentioned doing this without removing the column from the truck(although no one confirmed this, including the the one that mentioned it).

    I plan to weld mine since I have access to a welder and can weld.
     
  5. Jul 26, 2017 at 7:23 PM
    #5
    Seagull233

    Seagull233 Well-Known Member

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    Make sure that you go down to post #42 in the thread that you referenced, as this gives you a much easier version than that provided by the original poster. You only need to remove the plastic clam shell behind the steering wheel, the springs for the tilt, two allen bolts, and another bolt at the floorboard. You definitely need needlenose visegrips for those springs. They are a b**ch! Tack weld or a roll pin (perhaps a shear pin???) and put it all back together. Be aware that the knuckle at the floorboard will likely flop to the side, and the column won't automatically go back in place. It will amaze you how much better the steering feels.
     
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  6. Jul 27, 2017 at 3:22 AM
    #6
    rybern

    rybern Well-Known Member

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    Awesome. Thanks for the reminder and inspiration Tom.
     
  7. Jul 27, 2017 at 6:58 AM
    #7
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool DIXIE CHICKEN 8:55

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    Yep, that guy is a wizard. ;)
     
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  8. Jul 27, 2017 at 11:30 AM
    #8
    Greensystemsgo

    Greensystemsgo 1 owner with clean car fox.

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    I used a TW members video for reference @SafetyDang https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6O01xIDnuk8

    Also, I have had to do this twice now, the first time I had NEVER welded, so in retrospect the roll pin would of been better. The second time, I cleaned off the booger and welded it more better. Since the first repair, I had worked as a professional welder for a few years. Big difference, and funny when I saw my first weld.

    This most recent time I did it, I found that the bearings in the column had a hair of play so replaced them, along with the intermediate shaft that goes to the rack, AND the dust seal on the firewall for the intermediate shaft to pass through. My old dust seal was mostly gone. Just the outside "race" remained. The seal was super cheap, the intermediate shaft not so much. But check yours for weird play. Mine had ALOT.
     
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  9. Jul 27, 2017 at 11:31 AM
    #9
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Taco-mas!

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    Pics of any of this? Good info. Thanks :)
     
  10. Jul 27, 2017 at 11:37 AM
    #10
    Greensystemsgo

    Greensystemsgo 1 owner with clean car fox.

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    I do not have anything super relevant to the job no, I did snap a few so will share shortly. The nicest thing was it was extremely straight forward. Take notes of how everything goes together and it was a breeze. Took me an hour to replace 3x bearings, the plastic race thing in the column, the dust boot, and fix my weld.
    [​IMG]

    I replaced parts 8, 9 (x2, the other not shown on diagram), 19, and 22.

    https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/p...siteid=214329&vehicleid=69979&diagram=8510263



    [​IMG]
    I also did the halfshafts, I got down to about 15 minutes a side now when replacing them. The one was very obviously bad when driving, yet the other had far more end to end play, so they both got yanked.
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2017
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  11. Jul 30, 2017 at 5:16 PM
    #11
    rybern

    rybern Well-Known Member

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    I've jumped off in it too. I'll do two tack welds tomorrow at work and put it back together tomorrow evening. As mentioned in the writeuo, the spring on the drivers side is the toughest part of the whole thing. Once I had the two 6mm bolts and bolt near the firewall out, it helped to tap on the joint near the firewall to break it loose. Btw, I've never done anything with removing a steering wheel or column before.

    20170730_191135.jpg
     
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  12. Jul 30, 2017 at 10:35 PM
    #12
    SafetyDang

    SafetyDang get your facts straight

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    Nicely done guys! Mine has still held up all these years with two small tac welds.
     
  13. Jul 31, 2017 at 3:23 AM
    #13
    rybern

    rybern Well-Known Member

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    Awesome. Glad to hear it.
     
  14. Jul 31, 2017 at 8:24 AM
    #14
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Well-Known Member

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    Since welding that joint now, is there any concern now that in the event of a front end impact that the steering column won't collapse as designed? Or is that another piece of the mechanism?
     
  15. Jul 31, 2017 at 10:24 AM
    #15
    SafetyDang

    SafetyDang get your facts straight

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    With any off-road modification you are always taking a risk. You can say the same thing about an off-road bumper. That issue has been argued quite a bit, mostly by Jeep guys.

    http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/h...ion-legal-additional-risk-factor-1558361.html
    http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/stock-bumper-vs-aftermarket-metal-bumper-safety-423874.html

    The steering joint safety was also shortly discussed in our TTORA thread linked above. This is why some people use the roller pin instead.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2017
  16. Jul 31, 2017 at 10:36 AM
    #16
    rybern

    rybern Well-Known Member

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    If I hit something hard enough to drive the steering wheel through my chest, I don't think it's going to matter much if these two welds are in place or not. Either way, it's probably my day to go. I certainly understand the other sides argument though.

    20170731_122714.jpg
     
  17. Jul 31, 2017 at 11:58 AM
    #17
    Wulf

    Wulf B̶a̶n̶n̶e̶d̶

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    Can't find it again but someone posted the force required to break the 1/8" steel roll pin and it was pretty high, so it's probably a wash between welding and using the pin.


    I need to do this on my (non-tilt) steering column.
     
  18. Jul 31, 2017 at 5:57 PM
    #18
    Seagull233

    Seagull233 Well-Known Member

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    I have already tack welded mine, recently, and am not concerned that they would hold longer than the upper portion that is bolted in, in the event of a crash. But let me throw out yet another possibility. Could you put the slider in a hydraulic press and dimple one or more of the flats, in effect tightening the outer shaft onto the inner? This would keep the intended use of the slide in tact.
     
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  19. Jul 31, 2017 at 6:12 PM
    #19
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Taco-mas!

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    I think so - that's a good idea.
     
  20. Jul 31, 2017 at 6:48 PM
    #20
    rybern

    rybern Well-Known Member

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    After
    Yep, I like the sound of that. I could have done that today instead of welding it but too late now. I suspect that a drilling hammer and a sharp punch might do the trick.
     
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