Slotted rotors

I suggest that the OP go with the Fred Flinstone Brakes on the tow vechile: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vqp2AqsNRBM

 

Its not really 12K but mid 11K to high 11K.

I don't really have any issues with this weight because of the route I take to the dump. Only 2 stop signs 4 stop lights for about 12 miles and 85% freeway and flat. I usually have problems with an empty trailer to lightly loaded from hitting some hillyish areas.

Its only for this route I will overload the trailer because it seems like an easy route. For one load I did figure out it had a 4160 load. Most of them are maybe 3900 to 4200. I don't plan on over loading in the future unless it is a short or non hilly route for me.

Plus for the missing weight I have a leer 180cc plus pipe rack on top of that. And I am loaded up with lots of sprinkler repair supplies and tools.

If it wasn't for the airbags I don't think I could carry a load like this.



I think I do need to check out the inside of the drum and make sure everything is ok. Even with a load of 3100 lbs and activating the trailer brake manually they will not lock up. I would think on max they should be able to lock up. Seeing on how the trailer is only 9 months old I will be calling PJ about this and see what they will do.

I might have to look into the disk option for the trailer.

Thanks for all the info.

 

To be clear, the whippersnapper is a douche bag. And there is no reason to respect him. I went through this same thing with him and now I am able to mostly ignore him and discount most of what he says. Minus a few tools like him this is a great site for info. It just takes time to figure out who they are.

Thanks for the info.

 

Awe, did someone get butt hurt?

 

You are like a 13 year old trying to get the last word in?

 

Have you looked into StopTech? They make the Rotors for the Lexus F sport line. Kinda like the TRD line but in Lexus. And yes, they do have a shorter, more powerful braking distance than the stock brakes on the Lexus IS350. At least in MY experience.

 

Yeah I already thought about that one. I don't plan on the real heavy loads very much

I have a scangauge and have seen the pan temp up to 212 and converter temp to 226. It is amazing how fast the temps can rise if you drive it like a sports car with a trailer on. One quick jump into traffic and the converter temp will jump 10 degrees in less than a second. So I learned quick best to granny it with the trailer.

I was planning on doing the yearly ATF drain and fill.

Anyone here ever do a every 30K ATF flush?

 

Okay well never mind.

 

Just to be completely clear, you are obviously loading the thing up to the gills. Some loss of braking is to be expected whenever you load the vehicle up. Even just a load within the no-brakes capacity, a 1000 pound trailer + truck loaded to remaining capacity, WILL exhibit reduced braking effectiveness.

I'm not familiar enough with electric trailer drum brakes to say whether they should be able to lock up the trailer's wheels with a 2000 pound trailer (empty) sitting on them. I've always thought of drum brakes to be more for stopping assistance than for heavy duty braking. It may be that electric drum brakes (of that size) simply can't be more effective than they are for you, but I certainly agree that you should take them apart and fully inspect them.

 

They lock up great empty or with a small load.

When it gets to about 3-4000 lbs they have lots of braking power but just do not lockup.