Small oil leak

I need a little help advice for my 1996 Toyota Tacoma. I just installed a remanufactured engine from car parts planet. The engine looked clean and great when I got the engine and the install went fine. The engine came with both heads already in place with the timing belt and the camshafts already on. I noticed whoever attached the heads to the block had marked every single bolt on the engine with a paint marker including the head bolts which I believe indicates that the bolts were torqued correctly and then “marked” to show they were torqued down?

The head bolts all had paint lines on them across in one direction which makes me believe that whoever put the head on when they built this engine followed the instructions to tighten the heads to 25foot lbs then 90 degrees each bolt then another 90 degrees. So in theory they should all be marked the same way, which they were.

I was able to start it and did the first 20 min break in and currently working on the 500 mile break in. I have driven it about 2 weeks and about 170 miles since I installed the engine and noticed a very small oil leak. I put some UV leak detector oil into my engine oil and have ran the engine about 20 miles and a few days. I fixed what I could but noticed a little oil leaking from between the head and the block in one spot on both sides of the engine. It’s not terrible but enough to leave a little oil on the ground wherever I go. The oil isn’t constantly leaking only during idle or after I drive.
It’s not pouring out but definitely frustrating with a “new” engine to have an oil leak. It’s not leaking into the antifreeze and no bubbles are in the antifreeze or antifreeze in the oil. The exhaust isnt blowing any white smoke out like it would if the head gasket was leaking into the engine.

So the question I have is what do I do to help with the leak? In my head I could try to tighten the head bolts but am concerned for obvious reasons of over tightening the head bolts and causing damage. Any help or advice would greatly appreciated.

https://carpartplanet.com/engines/toyota/tacoma/1996/3.4l-vin-n-5th-digit-5vzfe-engine-6-cylinder

 

Did they offer any kind of warranty? If it’s leaking between the head and block that says to me that either then head gasket is cracked (in a way that’s not sending oil into the combustion chamber or mixing coolant with the oil, which can happen), or either the head/block is warped.

The paint marks usually indicate that a bolt has been torqued, but there’s nothing saying that’s not the problem. They could have reused the head bolts, or made a mistake.

If there’s a warranty I’d definitely start by doing that. If not… I’d say you’re looking at getting the heads re-done. I would not personally recommend touching the head bolts, especially since they are torque-to-yield. You may snap a bolt.

 

Ugh
What a kick in the teeth

100% agree with doktor

I will say that your documentation is very important
Besides those black lite pix
Would also add
Regular light pix
Dripping on ground pix

plz update for everyone (and for you)

Meaning, if this vendor doesn’t honor warranty…..TW will surely ‘make a tick mark’ on this vendor’s reputation

 

Thanks for all the help/advice guys! I love this forum. It has been so helpful with every possible problem I have ever had related to Toyotas.

Update*
I contacted the website which I purchased the engine (Car Part Planet) It took a little while to finally get a response but they asked for

1. Shop name, address, phone number and contact name.
2. Current vehicle mileage
3. Original installation invoice
4. Diagnostics from the shop along with any codes being displayed.
5. Fluid color and condition.
6. Pictures of the leak.

I sent the pictures above and the pictures below which aren’t great because of location but show the oil coming out between the heads (Silver) block (black) and the oil running down the block.

I’m not getting any engine codes. I don’t have a great picture of the oil leaks on the ground because I parked over gravel and have cleaned up the spots. The oil only leaks when the engine is running like in Idle or after it was running which makes since with the oil is all in the oil pan when the engine is off and when running, the oil obviously is pumped up to the top of the engine.

The issues that I think I will have with getting any help from car part planet is I installed the engine myself. In there warranty part of their website it clearly says that I need to have an official mechanic shop install it or no warranty. I didn’t touch the head bolts or anything that would have affected the head gasket during the install period and did everything to the T that Timmy the tool man did in his 5vzfe engine replacement video/Haynes repair manual for the 5vzfe

Worst case they tell me the engine isn’t under warranty because I installed it myself and would I personally pay/replace the head gasket. Including making sure the heads and the block are flat and machining the heads. (All things their website said they have done prior to shipping it to me) Not the end of the world because I did it last year to the old engine and Timmy makes an excellent video about replacing the head gasket on the 5vzfe

Best Case they warranty it and a shop can do it all for me way quicker then I could do it.

I also wouldn’t mind if we meet in the middle and they just send me a head gasket kit with all the new gaskets and I fix it myself. Just trying to save another $200

I was trying to save myself some money on the shipping/engine and went with the cheapest option which might have bit me in the ass.

My advice for any one replacing any engine. Just spend the little extra and buy through yota1. Your going to save yourself a headache and time on so much

Again thank you for all the advice and help on this

 

If any constellation, 1st two pix……gasket just doesn’t look right….big gap….head appears to bend down to mate to block

I don’t have 3.4L so can’t confirm

wrong gasket? Mixed up R/L gaskets during assembly?
Does manual say to place RTV on those seepage positions ?

hopefully a member with v6 can confirm or deny the same

 

Below is what the 5vzfe block and head gasket from my old engine when I did the head gaskets last year. I see what you mean about the heads kinda bending down in those two pictures and I really think it’s an optical illusion. I will double check in the morning but really think just weird angle

The other picture you can bearly see the L on the head gasket of the driver side. So I don’t think they got messed up but didn’t check if the other one said right so there might be a chance.

I honestly never though of putting high temp RTV on those seepage point but might be a good enough bandaid until next spring when I can break apart the truck and just redue the head gaskets.

No instructions came with the remanufactured engine so I have been piecing the best I can together with the yota1 break in process online forums and Timmy videos.

 

A firm on that optical illusion

as far as RTV (Fugi Bond in my case)….
I had to put in a new short block on my Subaru while back.
Got car back and same thing as you. Oil seepage. Long story short, the mechanic did not put fugi bond on cam carrier. So metal head on metal cam carrier would not prevent oil seepage.

100% not saying that RTV needed in your seepage areas.

I found out the hard way that engine Manual instructions were not followed in my case.

keep us posted!