Smittybilt X20 10K install

The on off switch controls whether the wireless function is on or not.

 

No

I also got my $50 rebate prepaid card yesterday

 

Ok thanks for the info.

 

Installed the X20 and just fit with very little room to spare under the hood latch brace, everything works perfect

 

No relocation of solenoid?

 

Looks great. Per one of the reviews, "had a hard time finding ring connectors to use as this switch uses 1/2' instead of the standard 3/8' posts". Your experience? Plug and play? Thanks!

 

Get larger copper lugs from a good neighborhood hardware store in the electric section. I used a lug crimping punch to put it on my 2-guage cables:

$20 Forney 57637 Lug Crimping Tool, Blue

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003X51S00?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

Or you can solder them, but it’s not as good a connection in the long run.

 

I'm so glad I came across this thread! You guys posted some info about power interrupters I was looking for

 

I was thinking about installing this ML-RBS from Blue Sea as a power interrupt. Mounted on an Off-Grid engineering battery box. Although expensive has anyone else done this? I'm not sure where I would relocate the solenoid in relation to the ML-RBS on the side of the Off-Grid. I'm installing on a 3rd gen with an SSO bumper w/integrated BD 20" light bar. I assume shorter is best. Any advice would be appreciated.

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On another, related note I was researching winches and found that the Smittybilt can sometime fail due to moisture getting into the wireless switch. Smittybilt replied to the user at this link with these instructions to bypass the wireless switch for troubleshooting. Might help someone who needs their winch and for whatever reason finds themselves without the wired controller.

Troubleshooting:
Here is a trouble shoot guide for the switch.

Below is aTest Only to bypass the wireless on/off switch on the control box cover which should allow you to operate the winch in wireless mode. Please respond with any results.

Please follow these steps:

1. Detach the control box from the winch while leaving all wires hooked up.

2. Remove 4 screws on the bottom of the control box holding cover to control box base plate.

3. Carefully lift the cover off of control box and disconnect the two red wires from on/off switch and connect together with a suitable jumper wire.

4. Attempt to spool out the winch with the controller set to wireless mode.

The user there found this direct replacement for the Smittybilt wireless switch (

$13 Waterproof Mini Off-On Rocker Switch

GAMA Electronics Waterproof Mini Off-On Rocker Switch) that they and other users found to be trouble free so far.

$15 Waterproof Mini Off-On Illuminated 12 VDC Rocker Switch

This one is the same switch but with a red light as well.

Seems a little expense for what it is and I suspect there may be even better switches out there that are the same size, equally water proof, less expensive and perhaps more robust. But unless someone finds one before I install I'm going to put one on before installation.

 

Not raining on your parade, and no , I haven't install it. Take a look at the operating temps. It doesn't really look like it was designed to be installed under the hood

 

Thanks; I have indeed seen that. However, it has the same operating temps as the ML-ACR that Off-Grid Engineering, ExpeditionPortal, and PowerTrays use for their dual battery set-up. Searching, I've not yet been able to find anyone with any problems. I'm going to ask in some of the big dual battery threads. The dual battery application seems like much more critical component (always in circuit, auto switching between batteries). Failure could be a bigger deal.

Having said that, running *anything* out of spec carries risk not designed for. So it is GREAT that you point it out for anyone reading. Safety (and dependability) is good. I'll have to think about what (if any) implications failure might mean for the ML-RBS used as a simple switch.

*Edit - FWIW: I have now confirmed that the ML-RBS uses magnetic latching and draws no current in "ON" or "OFF" state; only draws current when changing state of switch

 

Since you can already operate the winch from inside the cab using the controller with the 12' wire (or wireless), I'm with you that it doesn't make sense to have another switch that's hardwired to the cab. So, more than likely it's for power so there's no chance (okay, technically LESS chance) of inadvertently spooling the winch.

But I've seen people wire a power switch AND a control (winch in, winch out) switch inside. It would be nice to not have to hunt around for the controller when you need to winch, but honestly, when you're winching you're doing so much getting in and out of the vehicle and setting up the winch from the outside that it doesn't really make sense to have a control switch inside the cab (that is separate from your wireless controller).

 

Also, some people believe that not having power to the winch all the time is an added measure of safety in an accident (electrical short/fire). I'm personally joining that club although the exact same functionality can be done much cheaper under the hood.

Perhaps the best case for an in-cab power switch might be if you are lucky enough to have one of the Warn Platinum winches. Theoretically you don't have to open the hood for anything, including clutch. If you don't want continuous power to the winch, in that set-up an in cab switch seems to make sense. Otherwise, as you say, your going to be in/out and under the hood anyway.

And by that time you buy that winch, you've already spent a small fortune!

 

I think an in cab power switch definitely makes sense. It can always be off, which decreases the threat of a short/fire, but I think I'd rather have a switch inside the cab. You don't really need to be under the hood while winching, as long as everything is working properly, that is... I think I've seen several threads of people doing in cab switches, I might have to look those up once I pick up my winch this afternoon...

 

Unless you purchased a bumper without access holes as I did. Wanted to keep assorted debris out. May not have been the best decision I've made, but it's done.

The Blue Sea ML-RBS on an Off-Grid Engineering battery box linked above seems like a nice option. You can operate manually under the hood as well if you want to shut-off power while under the hood. 1st world problem for sure, but I am going to do it anyway.

 

Oh I gotcha. So you have to reach the clutch release from inside the engine bay? I guess I'm not picturing how that works...

Mine is going in this (once I finish it):

 

I don't have a winch yet, and actually still waiting for the bumper (maybe another month and a half). So I started researching what to do, I almost have the winch narrowed down, lol. Just wasn't sure wich cut off switch to use. So I asked around, got yelled at, got fed some opinions, but at the end turns out that bunch of people I know (at least 3, lol) use this solenoid
PAC PAC-500 500-Amp Relay Battery Isolator

PAC 500 Watt Battery Relay and Isolator, Amp Relay, 12 volt Battery Disconnect Relay, Water-Resistant and Extends Battery Life (500 Watts)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001YIPXR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Z2jBCb3BDM0YJ

 

I ended up with the synthetic XRC 9500 due to weight savings compared to the X20. Going to be installing this soon and wanted to do something similar because of safety like everyone has said. Wondering what type of amp is needed and if these will work since essentially it’s the same idea and it’ll look cleaner and easy to hide in the engine bay. It’s an in-line fuse/breaker that you can flip the kill switch to stop the power from going to the winch. Links in the pics.



Or this

 

The Smittybilt x20 can pull up to 440 amps @ 8k lbs pull. I run the warn

$97 WARN 62132 Power Interrupt Kit with Battery Lead, Hardware, Solenoid, Switch and Wiring

solenoid/

$22 CH4X4 Push Switch for Toyota Tacoma, FJ Cruiser, Land Cruiser, Fortuner, Hilux, 4Runner, Prado 12V 3Amp - Winch Power Symbol - Green LED

switch setup and works fine. Only done a few test pulls in a sandy wash, so not sure how much weight I was pulling, but i'm happy.

 

Has anyone wired their winch power switch through the ignition as well as a switch?

I can see the wiring being more complicated, but then the winch wouldn't be able to be powered without the ignition being on as well (makes it so you can't leave it powered on inadvertently).