SMKYTXN's Build

Oh okay did you do that wiring yourself? And that switch panel is neat just a lil pricey

 

Yes, I did the wiring myself.

If you price out a blue sea fuse panel, relays, wire, fuses, rocker switches, etc. you'll find it's not that pricey. The time savings and not having to find a spot for all the switches plays into it as well.

 

true I have looked into that, so everything is controlled on that remote? you like it?

 

Correct, I have all of my accessories running off of the NSA.

1. Compressor
2. Rear locker
3. Front locker
4. Spots
5. Rock lights
6. Winch power
7. Winch in
8. Winch out

Take a look at my website to see the different programming options. There's a ton of ways that the panel can be configured, and it's easy to change the settings.

www.trailtoys.net

 

what type of rock lights are these?

 

ahh very nice. How much were those? where did you get them?

 

They're cheap and put of a ton of light. I need to clean them off though, they're caked in mud at the moment. At a measly $6 a piece you can add a ton of them under the truck and not break the bank.

 

I will have to buy some and check them out.

 

Since I know you're lazy

RioRand RR-2P-6W-6K-S LED Daytime Running Light (2-Piece Waterproof Aluminum High Power 6W 6000K Xenon Slim COB, White)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C1YI2XA/

 

wow!!!!!!! ^

I looked down below \/ . ooohh and

 

lol ^

 

I put a set on my ammo can speaker box as well. They're very versatile.

 

nice.

 

Decided to try and put the whole Chevy 63 swap into one post so it's easier to link to in the OP.

I decided to go with the Chevy 63 leafs primarily to hold up the heavy flat bed.

Taco leafs that will support the weight of the bed, toolbox, and gear don't exist. The allpro expos state an extra 400 to 500lbs of cargo. Here's the breakdown of the weight that's currently out back.

Toolbox = 200lbs (without tools or gear)
Bed = approximately 350lbs (I should get an actual weight on it)
Stock DCSB bed = 250lbs

So I'm 300lbs over stock in the rear. The expos will only give me 100-150lbs of capacity before I start sagging. I don't think that will work. The expos also cost $500.

So, in enters the chevy 63" swap idea. When I weighed my truck, the back end weighed in at 2900lbs. This was on a cat certified scale.

Here are the box weights for the 1/2 ton Chevy pickup.

Box curb weights:

Standard box - 2219lbs
Long box - 2267lbs

Payload capacity:

Standard box - 1508lbs
Long box - 1802lbs

Let's look at the standard box. I'm 681lbs heavier than the stock curb weight so I'll have to reduce the payload capacity by that much. That would leave me with 827lbs of payload capacity if I just run the stock springs. I could also choose to add an add a leaf to the chevy springs.

Cost breakdown:

Ruffstuff ideal 63" swap kit = $226.50
63" springs from the junk yard = $100 (supposedly)
Add a leaf for 63" springs = $80 (if I need them)

Total cost = $406.50

Right off the bat I decided to use Skyjacker 5" lift springs instead of factory chevy 63's. The leafs I used from Skyjacker are CR55's. If I had to do it again I would buy the CR75's, which are meant for the 3/4 ton truck. The 5" lift spring is significantly longer than the stock 63's, which have resulted in more droop.





When ordering the ruffstuff swap kit you'll need to know the axle diameter so they send you the correct u-bolts. The 8.4" sport rear axle tubes measure out to 3.25". Here's what you get in the Ruffstuff kit. The only thing you'll be missing is a rear perch for the rear shackle hanger.



Time to start putting the kit together. You have to weld up the front spring hangers from ruffstuff.







Powdercoated shackles



Things never go according to plan. I had to buy an air chissel to get the old OME bolts out of the lower shock mounts.



I had cut the rivets for the rear spring hangers when I built my flatbed, so taking them off now was the easy part.



The skyjacker leafs have two different size eyes. The front requires a 5/8" bolt and the rear needs a 1/2" bolt. I have no idea why they're different, but keep it in mind if you're going to use these leafs.



Front spring hangers gone.



Tacked in the front spring hangers and called it a day.



Rear spring hangers. Due to our frames tapering at the rear you'll need to build a perch for the rear hanger. This was my solution.





With everything tacked in place I tried out two of the four leafs and found that they were no where near the capacity I needed. Time to put the whole pack back together and see how they work.



All four leafs turned out to be too much. In the end I went back to four leafs, but that was after I had moved the rear hanger forward.



You can see that my shackle angle is too steep here. I didn't know enough at the time and welded everything out. I had to cut off the hanger and turn it around, which moved the hanger about 1.5" forward.



Fool droop with the wrong shackle angle and no retainers on the leafs.





Paint









So one of the problems I ran into was the axle rotating enough that the stock shock locations wouldn't line up. I had to take the axle shim out to get the shock to fit. The skyjackers are way to bouncy to run without a shock for more than a few feet.

Doing a little testing before buttoning it up to go home.



Phill stopped by the shop this evening to help me measure for the new shocks. I took measurements between the underside of the bed and the centerline of the shackle. Here's what I got.

Compressed = 29.5"
Extended = 43.75"
Distance between flat leaf and bump pad = 6"
Brake lines = 36" (there will be plenty of slack with that length)

So with adding an inch for forced travel I'm looking at 15.25" of travel in the rear.

I decided to run 18" shocks vertical so that I can dampen the heavy rear bed and so that I won't have to strap the axle.



The 18" shock has a compressed length of 28" and an extended length of 46". That would give me 1.5" of exposed shaft on compression and an extra 2.25" of extension past my calculated numbers. Definitely provides more room for error on my part. The additional cost to go from the 16" to 18" shock is only $25, so it's kind of a no brainer.

Bump stops

I did not take into consideration how much these bumps would compress, so in this picture they're 2" too short.



New shocks



I also ordered new brake lines at 10" over stock. So far I haven't had any issues with them.

Rear shock mounting:

I used a Ruffstuff lower shock mount. We had a few issues with the mount though. It should have been a little longer on the sides to allow the supplied bolt to fit. You can see here that it hits the frame.

I also did a little machining since I didn't have spacers on hand. I turned down, and bored, a piece of sch 160 1/2" pipe for bushings. Each one is 1/4" thick. That also helped with spacing out the tabs since the shock eyes are 1-1/4" wide.



The point of no return. No more stock shock mounts.







Tacked on the upper shock mounts to the flatbed. Quickly realized they needed to be angled to get the lower shock mount to line up.



First shock mocked up.







With 4.1" backspacing on the wheels and a 1.25" spacer it looks like there will be plenty of room for the shocks.



All welded up.





I added 2" to my bumpstops to keep the leafs from going negative and the shocks from bottoming out. Everything looks good to go. I clear the tires at full flex, but I may move up to a 1.5" wheel spacer to gain a little wiggle room.













And finally some real world testing. I still need to build a traction bar, but that will have to wait for another day.

 

@dakotasyota , check out the post above this one. I consolidated my 63 leaf swap into one post. I hope it will help you out in your endeavor this weekend. Good luck.

 

"FLEX"

 

Yes! This will make mine so much easier! Thanks Nathan!