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Snapped off bolt on receiver hitch install

Discussion in 'Towing' started by silverej, Jul 7, 2009.

  1. Jul 7, 2009 at 6:11 PM
    #1
    silverej

    silverej [OP] Member

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    Receiver hitch
    I purchased a Draw-Tite hitch and wiring harness. I installed them myself. For the most part it wasn't a problem. The only problem I had was I snapped off one of the bolts on the bumper mount bracket when I was trying to torque it to 105 lb-ft as the instructions indicated. I didn't get to 105 before it snapped. What is the best way to get this out and is 105 really the right torque cause it seems like a lot.

    Eric
     
  2. Jul 7, 2009 at 6:14 PM
    #2
    fletch aka

    fletch aka www.BeLikeBrit.org

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  3. Jul 7, 2009 at 6:31 PM
    #3
    carmellocafe

    carmellocafe Begin With The End In Mind.

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    Yeah, I'd just drill it and go bigger.
     
  4. Jul 7, 2009 at 6:38 PM
    #4
    Snipe

    Snipe Well-Known Member

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    If it's a grade 8 bolt it is going to be a chore to drill for either using an easy out or going bigger, just take your time and get the hole centered.

    If you are going to try an easy out use the short stubby design, they work better then those square shaft or the long spiral ones by far.

    You can see what I'm talking about here

    http://www.acetoolonline.com/Irwin-s/2818.htm
     
  5. Jul 12, 2009 at 9:32 AM
    #5
    silverej

    silverej [OP] Member

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    Receiver hitch
    Thanks for the help. I will try this. Did anyone have any trouble torquing the bolts to 105 lb-ft? It was a huge pain for me. Not sure why.
     
  6. Jun 22, 2013 at 2:00 AM
    #6
    litegide24

    litegide24 Well-Known Member

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    But to answer your question - Yes, the crappy instructions indicate 105 ft lbs and I also snapped a factory bolt putting same draw-tight, bolt was for the bumper bracket. The good part is that the broken bolt was already sticking out the welded nut on the frame so a conveniently snapped the other half unscrewed by hand. After breaking the bolt decided To loosen all the bolts that I had cranked extremely tight. I decided to back them all out and start over.

    I'm now confident the 4 aftermarket hardware bolts that come with the hitch (get screwed up vertically to mount the hitch to the prewelded nuts in the frame,), they torqued AOK at 105 ft lbs.

    Tomorrow I'm going to try to tighten up all the factory 18mm bolts (3 in the bumper bracket to the frame and 2 that mount the bumper to the bracket).

    I recently purchased two new sears craftsman clicker torque wrenches, the 3/8 drive shows inch lbs :mad: the 1/2 drive does show ft lbs, this is the wrench that snapped one of the factory bumper bracket bolts.

    Two questions;
    1.) what are the Toyota factory torque settings on the 3 bolts on the bumper bracket where it attaches to frame, also the 2 bolts from th bracket to the bumper?

    2.). Does anybody use the craftsman clicker type torque wrenches? The 3/8" drive uses inch lbs... i saw some conversion to divide by 12 to get inch lbs , which i tried and got some unreasonable high number...:confused: the 1/2" wrench shows ft lb measurement, hopefully it's accurate.

    Thanks
     
  7. Jun 25, 2013 at 10:24 AM
    #7
    aficianado

    aficianado Well-Known Member

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    multiply by 12. to convert ft*lbs to in*lb.
     
  8. Jun 25, 2013 at 11:48 AM
    #8
    exploringcarolina

    exploringcarolina Well-Known Member

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    Most of the torques values I have used were for "dry" threads and always torque bolts/nuts dry, except for oil pan/differential/transmission drain plugs. Always "assumed" a drain plug torque value was "wet" torque because there's always a little oil dripping and could not keep it dry.

    We had a few bolt/thread failures on industrial applications after a few months of use due to wet/oiled threads when the nuts were torqued to the dry torque values.
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2013
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