Sneak Peek at the 2JZ (Lexus Inline 6 Motor) I am Cramming into my Ex-Girlfriend's Engine Bay

Also, once I found a fan I liked by spal, I googled the pn and bought it from the cheapest place. I'd love another 1.5" so I can run a high performance fan that moves twice the air.

 

A built 2JZ will stomp the shit out of any LS motor ever made. I'd rather have the 2JZ myself lol!

 

Take a look at this- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-380466/overview/, totals 25.5 inches wide and 21.125 tall. Core thickness is 1.625 thick which is where it sounds like the issue is at for you with clearance. I am finding things as tall as 26 inches, but only 16 inches wide though. Also, take note of the inlet and outlet placement on that one... Just tossing that idea out there..


I'll take some pictures later of what I did with the A/C condenser. Took the bracket off of it and it sits at a slight angle right behind the hood latch and sits on a piece of metal on the body (with some rubber washers of course). I still had to use slim fans on it, but I was able to go stealthy and put them in between the condenser and radiator so the engine pulleys are sitting maybe a tad over an inch away from the radiator core.

 

I'd love to see some pictures of your set up. Sorry for turning a page of your thread into radiator tech. Haha.

My champion radiator is

• • Core Dimensions (H x W): 16 1/8 x 24 1/2
  • Overall Dimensions (H x W): 23 x 26 3/4
  • 3 row core

 

Yeah I'll definitely get back to you on pictures as I'll be working on it this weekend. No worries on that, that's simply one of the pieces of this swap and someone may find it helpful.

I certainly didn't know this until I went to put the OEM radiator in and was like, "Awe darn, the hoses are on the wrong side now...how's this supposed to work!" Not knowing the IS/GS 300 radiator specs, I got one cheap via eBay. Was way too wide and wouldn't clear the frame. Originally hoping to use that along with the fans, but that obviously didn't happen! So I now have a Lexus radiator along with the electric fans and shroud assembly and Tacoma radiator laying around unfortunately.

 

I managed to bend my transmission cross member up wheeling the other weekend. The inlet is now pushing against the fan. I'd love to find a radiator that is identical to the Tacoma radiator with the inlet and outlet swapped. If I could find an aluminum radiator I could have the inlet and outlet moved... I wonder what a custom unit would cost...

 

Spent a lot of time on this over the weekend and learned quite a bit of things. My apologies for the delay on photos. Posting a bunch all at once.

So here is what is up and a current concern- I built a crossover for the plugs that run from the key/ignition to the ecu, which you can see a picture of half done. Cut up an old $10 ecu off eBay from a Toyota Sienna to cross over the two plugs inside the Taco which you can see me holding them individually. These will be crossed over/bridged to the back of the 2jz ecu plugs.



The concern- I found the constant 12 volt, couple 12's with key in run position, and a 12 in crank position. Something I am unsure of is while the key was in the run position, a couple wires are showing something like 6 or 7-something volts. I also recall one showing 10-something volts too. Anyone have any idea what this means? There are also wires that showed no volts, but I am going to take a wild guess and assume at least one of these will give me 12 with the air on with A/C engaged. Speaking of that, the fan controller has an input for A/C also.



Another thing I am working on figuring out is where this group of plugs leads to. I think it is the dash, but will have to do more figuring out on that.


Here are some pictures of the front end here with the radiator. @COMAtized99 you can see how I have the A/C condenser wedged in there. By the way, sorry to hear about your bent cross-member :sad: You can also see the unfinished top bracket. The bottom is just like the top, but bolts to where the skid plate goes. Also you'll probably notice that there are two different master cylinders in the pictures. Brake booster/master cylinder is from an IS300, which is disc/disc, but a 1997 Toyota Camry 2.2 master cylinder bolts right up, which is disc/drum. Don't know how this will work out. Won't know till we actually try to stop at speed.

Hoping that have it turn key by next Sunday night.

If ANYONE has any specific requests on pictures of questions on anything, let me know!

 

The fan input to the AC system is there to trigger the fans to run whenever the AC is on. If you run the AC system with no fan, pressure will build and cause damage.... that's what I was told anyway.

Your way of splicing is interesting. I spliced all the wires on my Tacoma's dash harness to match the Tundras engine harness. I am planning (slowly) to rework my wiring and return my dash harness to stock, and build an adapter harness for the two. I will replace the Tacoma dash side ecu plugs with a generic plug that I can easily match and add wires too.

Btw, what radiator did you end up with specifically from summit?

 

That is my understanding also as for condensing the gas to a lower pressure liquid state so the system isn't over pressurized.

Reason I wired that way is because say for some odd reason I need to put another 5vz back in there all I have to do is get the harness and plug it in, ecu, motor, and brackets and it'll pretty much drop in other than the extended radiator hoses needed for that and driveshaft. Not that I'd do that, but I thought it'd be nice to have it that way.

I do like your idea with wiring because in the long run with building up that motor and making repairs and mods your way of wiring will definitely make it easier.

I believe this is the one I got http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hre-342r/overview/.

 

UPDATE: Getting a better understanding of the body/dash loom connectors. Also tracing the wires on the old harness, understanding their function, and adapting that to the body loom on the 2jz harness. Completely lost with the starter relay and fuel pump relay.

I'd like to get the fuel pump wired so that when the key is in the "run" position whether running or not, the fuel pump is on. That is the main concern right now. Lost on the starter relay, but if last resort is needed for the time being I can just jump it for now.

 

I can try and help you with some of the wiring. I just need your wiring info.

 

After a pin broke off the connector bridge I made, I see why you did it the way you did as it makes way more sense now after I've connected several things.

For the truck, I am going off of this http://www.well.com/user/mosk/images/Early_Tacoma_ECUs_v2.pdf (created by Jeff Moskovitz) and the pins so far seem to be correct. I am going off the 2002 Tacoma Automatic 4X4 5vz-fe (even though I am a Prerunner)...

For the 2jz, I am going off of http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/42173082/2JZ-GTE VVTi JZS161 Aristo Engine Wiring (written by Wilbo).

So far I have pretty much everything down to where it should go on E5. E6 ended up with nothing connected yet. I feel pretty confident with a couple things on the body loom, such as power to the injectors and coils which can be found by simply tracing the old harness.

But the starter relay. I am so stumped right now with figuring it out. Will post some pictures tomorrow morning specifically of what I am uncertain about. Same with the fuel pump and how it might communicate with this ecu. Got too many things going through my head at once right now and only need to focus on one at a time. I'll start with the starter relay system first (no pun intended)...

Anyhow, will post a snapshot tomorrow of exactly my issue is and which three wires tomorrow morning. "I has the dumb" right now after a long day.

Have a good night man! I greatly appreciate your help.

 

x2

 

I remember the feeling of being overwhelmed. For me, I had to slow down, clear my mind and work one wire and system at a time.

Take notes of everything. I "mapped" every plug I touched and wrote down the plug, the pin number, the wire color, what it's function is, and where I ran it to. If I moved a wire to a new pin location, I noted why.

You will thank yourself in the future if you take good notes and keep up with them.

Once I finished my wiring I counted up some 170 splices. That's alot going on, and in 2,3,6+ years, you won't remember much of it.

 

Sorry for the delay with an update guys, got a little distracted yesterday with my truck

 

You are absolutely right. Right now I'm rushing to finish this and not really taking note of things. I have a lot hooked up right now, but cannot get spark. Will let you know what i find in a bit. Frustrated right now. At least i got it to turn over with the key!

 

By chance, it is correct that the fuel pump runs off of the EFI relay? Trying to see what I need to jump giving it power. From my understanding, the Tacoma fuel pump is only single speed unlike the Supras or Lexus where there is a low and a high speed. Anyone out there please correct me if I am wrong it this. Little unsure right now because the "FPC" on the JDM ECU is setup for the 2 speeds I believe and powered by a pwm signal. Would be simple to jump a circuit and simply have the fuel pump give me a steady flow with the ignition on. Don't see any issue with this as I am not running a whopping amount of power or anything.

Aaaand just placed an order online for a ton of different color coded wires. Will use Excel and make a chart.

 

The 4.7 uses a 2 speed pump like you are describing. I created a new circuit to run the pump. The ecu controls the circuit. I have it wired so that it runs full speed all the time. The fuel pressure regulator valve will return the extra fuel to the tank.

I don't have a diagram for an 02 Tacoma. If you would like for me to look over some the circuits I can probably come up with a diagram and help if needed.

 

Thank you so much for your help with that. I will use a separate relay then.

This ECU has a pin for FPC "Fuel Pump Control." The 5vz has a pin for FC which I believe is "Fuel Control" or something like that. Not too sure if FPC will work anymore in this situation for powering the relay. On the Aristo, the fuel pump has its own ECU which the main ECU communicates with via 0 to 5v pwm signal rather than a constant 12v signal. Next best option would be a relay as you suggested. Would like to have it turn on with the ECU rather than the key. On this, http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/42173082/2JZ-GTE VVTi JZS161 Aristo Engine Wiring it looks like something off of plug F60 would be best to run off of.


One thing I now understand (if correctly) is there is the EFI Relay and also something called the Circuit Opening Relay. EFI relay is powered up by the M-Relay coming out of the ECU, and main relay powers up B and B2 on the ECU. The EFI relay also powers up the Circuit Opening Relay. Going back to the original 5vz ECU, it'd make sense that the FC would then dictate the final action of the Circuit Opening relay powering up the fuel pump. Does that sound about right?

I'll PM you a diagram. Circled in red is EFI and Circuit opening relay. Blue is the Fuel Pump, and orange are two items I am unsure of what they are exactly.

Do you have any suggestions as for which function off the ECU I should tap a relay into and at what destination should that relay go to power up the fuel pump?

No hurry on that. Whenever you have some free time I'd appreciate it if you'd be able to take a quick look. Won't be able to get back to it until next weekend. Only planning will happen. Any suggestions would be HUGELY appreciated!! Trying to slow down and take this one wire at a time... Sending you a PM right now.