Sneaky Underwriting?Clutch FRIED at 38k miles-Dealership Deception?

Ours has done more for less, but the South East Toyota dealerships are run a little differently from the rest of the US, you can do your own research on how and why don't want to open that can of worms.

 

While this is true, when I was at the dealer, they made me sign something authorizing them to service my vehicle. When I read through the form very carefully, I noticed that by default (aka - unless you check the boxes saying NO, I do NOT allow) they can kinda do whatever they want.

The boxes were like "check here if you would like to be notified if the repair will be more than $25"
"check here if you would like for us to ask permission before conducting repairs"
etc
If you don't check those boxes, then there is a lot of wiggle room.
I realized that it was dangerous to leave any box unchecked. I checked them all for my protection.

 

With the countless stories on this Forum about Dealer scams, why take your truck to the Dealer for a clutch job?

 

Diag fee does not equal labor hours, it's just a down payment to start, those labor hours will then be back charged onto the ticket.

As for pulling a trans, an experienced tech can have one out in a FR vehicle in less than an hour.

That said dealers (and shops) don't charge per hour worked they charge flat rate per job from a BIG BLACK BOOK least that's what we called it, if you have a job billed for 10hr in the book and you're not finished in 7 you ain't making money, you do it in 6, you're still slow, you want to take every job listed and do it in half time to be a "good" tech.

Our star tech averaged 20hrs of bill time worked in his 8hr shift. Course that man was a god on the wrench and had a toolbox worth more (and just as heavy) as a lot of folks homes.

 

Yeah that's an underhanded tactic they use to get you. One of the many reasons I don't work for a dealer (or even in that industry) anymore.

 

Because of the little drop of hope called warranty where someone else foots the bill.

Can't get that from mom and pop, even if the service is more fair.

 

If this is true, then maybe I guess the $108 could be accurate, but I still can't believe it.

If a guy can pull a 4x4 transmission out of my truck in less than an hour, I'd pay $100 just to watch him do it.

 

If Norman or Cecil were still at my old place I'd get a video for you.

 

@TacoBurgh $1500 man that's way cheaper than PNW. I was quoted between $2000 and $2800 from a couple of stealerships near Seattle, of course I would never let them turn a wrench on my truck.

 

I like how you titled your thread "sneaky underwriter... deceptive dealership" but you're skeptical they're tricking you.
Just put that together in my head and had a chuckle.

 

I never said anything about being skeptical. Im confident that they tell half-truths, and lies through omission.

What i am skeptical of is whether they would conveniently send me staged pictures of a clutch, totally fried, and in a somewhat odd way. Otherwise my thread would be titled, "Bold-faced Liar of an Underwriter....Deadly Demonic Dealerships!!!!"

Though I do like the sounds of that one...

 

You're right, those are classic symptoms of a bad clutch and if someone was going to hoodwink you with fake pictures that's probably a safe one. Then if you bite and they find a good clutch they get an open ended fishing expedition to find what's really wrong. Always ask for the old parts, any reputable dealer or shop won't have a problem with showing you what they did.

 

I think the dealership is being fair. $1500 is not the price for only labor and parts. It includes the cost of keeping the lights on, insurance, training and a whole lot of other things.

That price is not that much different from an independent shop.

Remember, most repairs on vehicles are quick. This allows the tech to do many different vehicle repairs in a shift. The tech will only be doing one job the day they fix your clutch. The dealership can make more money doing many small repairs.

I believe there was something wrong with that clutch right from the factory, but I don't think you have any choice but to pay for the work yourself.

It sucks, I know.

Maybe you can get some good will discount on the job in exchange for a decent review.

And for everyone that has been shafted be a dealer, good catch. That's why we hang on these forums. These places are a weather of good information.

 

Leaves in the heater box will make the clutch stop working? Solenoids will make a clutch stop working? Something electrical?

Dude just stop.. OP had a problem, he dropped his truck off at the dealer, asked them to find his problem, they test drove it, ASKED PERMISSION TO REMOVE TRANS AND LOOK AT THE CLUTCH, and they found the problem. If you have "No idea" how smoke is related to clutch failure, maybe you should post less and read/listen a little more.

I will do hours of work on a customer's car before I see ANY money if I call the customer and GET AUTHORIZATION first. If the Customer is cool and relaxed it makes me cool and relaxed and more willing to stick my neck out labor/time-wise. Customer pays the bill when the job is done, it's actaully pretty standard procedure.

But to you, everything is a conspiracy! Everyone is trying to screw You! You are not helping OP, you are just scaring him and setting him up for a shitty experience at the dealer.

You remind me of customers that come in and the first words out of their mouth are "EVERY shop I've ever been to has tried to SCREW ME"!

I immediately start thinking hmmm.. what's the common denominator here.

 

Where you at right now, your best option might be to just let them fix it, but ask for all the parts replaced to be handed back to you. Then you can compare them to the pictures. Might think real hard about upgrading the replacement parts to the best available.

 

"If you smell dog crap everywhere you go, check your shoes."

 

The factory clutches don't behave well with the S/C. Most people upgrade their pressure plate when they boost their motor because they just wont hold the extra hp/torque

 

What's the typical upgrade, URD?

 

From what ive read, yes URD stage 2 or 3 depending on what you want the pedal feel/engagement to be like

 

maybe the accumulator failed or the hydraulics have an issue releasing pressure

my 99 taco went over 150k with orig clutch and I towed a lot with it camping all over new england