Snow Tire Recommendations???

What ever tire you go with, make sure it has the "Three-Peak Mountain Snowflake Designation". It should be seen on the side of the tire and means it has gone through all the hoopla of being a true all season tire. Personally I have been using Goodyear Duratrac on my 2010 (RIP) and got 80k on 80% highway miles before I swapped them out and got new ones 300 miles before my little buddy got put down by a 16yr old in a Dodge.

I'm in S.W. Montana and we get -30 with -60+ wind chill factors and the GY's have treated me well in the last 8 winters and summers for when you want to have fun in the hills.

Just my 2 cents worth.... Three-Peak Mountain Snowflake Designation

 

In addition to the "Three-Peak Mountain Snowflake Designation" which means rated for snow, there is now a new symbol. It is 2 mountain peaks in a triangle. It stands for certified for ice. I would look for tires with both symbols.

 

I run the Blizzak DM-V2 for my winter tires. They’ve been great.

 

I'm with you dude, I don't think anyone else is understanding your question. I think they just recommend that because that's where you center weight for hauling.

For everyone else:
If you have 200 lbs of sand above the axle, you've added 200 lbs to the back wheels, congratulations. I don't know what the axle weights are, but you haven't moved the needle much in the front-rear weight distribution. This is even worse if you put the weight anywhere in front of the rear axle.

Put the same 200 lbs in the very back of the bed, and now you've added maybe 275 lbs to the rear axle, and removed 75 lbs from the front due to the truck body acting like a lever. Now we're getting somewhere, and you can make a much better impact to weight distribution by sitting the weight at the end of the bed.

And you're unlikely to turn the truck into a 911 widowmaker, because you're not putting all of the weight on the back. (The Porsche has the entire engine hanging behind the axle, very different setup from the truck). You're not really making the truck ass-heavy by adding a few hundred pounds (if that) to a very front heavy vehicle.

 

I do think all of the sand bag talk is irrelevant for a 4wd truck, though. If you can't get traction in Rwd, then the road is slippery enough to use 4wd. Then you're not worried about the extra weight for stopping (or sliding), which is a concern.

The best advice was earlier: take the truck out after a snow and practice some drifting and correction, so the kid isn't shocked the first time he starts going sideways. Beyond that, the best thing to learn is when to stay home, because no one is driving on sheer ice when you least expect it.

I like chains as a backup for hills (and icy conditions), but western Michigan isn't very hilly, right?

 

Is the additional weight for weight distribution or for a heavier footprint? In both cases, against the tailgate gives you more, but I always thought it was for the extra footprint and traction.

I'm just thinking on a tractor, they fill the rear tires and add wheel weights for traction, it does nothing for weight distribution. I do have a ballast box to offset loader weight though, otherwise that's too much weight for the front axle and tires, plus the ass end would lift off the ground.

 

I have only owned front wheel drive cars before owning a Tacoma.

When I first bought my Tacoma last fall, I was planning to buy a set of snow tires. Then, during the first snow storm (Boston area), I took it out on the deserted streets with maybe 5” of snow on them, to see how bad it was. I honestly could not really get the truck to break loose unless I turned off the traction control. After that, I figured that I don’t need snow tires. I don’t live in a hilly area, so that may help.

 

Obviously. Let me clarify. My question is why people so often recommend putting the weight directly above the rear axle instead of behind the axle. Putting the weight behind the axle will affect the front/rear weight distribution more than putting it directly above the axle.

 

Chains are mainly for 18 wheelers in extreme conditions not passenger vehicles. Top of the line snow tires is always the best option. It's been snowing where I live all day.

 

I assume you were in 4wd. Fwd is much better that rwd, but awd/4wd is heads tails above both.

 

I live in Western Montana with a very hilly drive. Snow is no problem with all seasons, its the icy days that were a concern. Blizzaks were better and fine for around town but studded were a must for me. I have to go into work for emergencies at all hours and those nights where it was pure ice (not slush), I was all over the place with the Blizzaks on my '24 VW Cross Sport AWD. With studs on now, I feel I can go anywhere at anytime. Zero traction issues with studs. I haven't had a chance to drive the Tacoma in these conditions yet so we will see. I have new Falken Rubitreks and I will give them a shot. For the bad days I will take the VW. My previous Ram 2500 6.7L with AT's was horrible on ice, even with an open diff. I put studs on that and it went anywhere I wanted including some back country trips in deep snow.

 

OP said studs aren't allowed where he lives.

 

Snow traction has nothing to do with automobile brand. It’s about rwd/fwd/awd/4wd, tires, weight distribution, traction control, and lockers. Most automobile brands offer all of these things.

Studs don’t help on softish snow. They are a game changer on ice though.

 

The politics/economics of tire studs are mysterious. The pattern of where they are allowed and not allowed doesn’t have an obvious pattern.

 

Keep it simple.. Just get a good all weather or winter tire. If it’s 4x4 don’t bother with sand bags.

A new driver wouldn’t have a clue what to do with chains and absolutely shouldn’t be driving in those conditions. And there are very few conditions that chains would benefit a gen 3 Tacoma.

 

Live in Minnesota. I second everything said about Hakepellita R5s. They’re great. I prefer them to Blizzaks. The only trick is that they’re Finnish, and a limited number get imported each year. If you decide you want them midseason, you might find yourself out of luck. Discount tire carries them and can order them in if you get an order in earliesh.

 

I won't let my Grandpa hear you say that. We would hunt in some of the craziest places in his '71 bronco and when all four wheels had chains, he wasn't afraid of shit. Me on the other hand, I was trying to get out and walk.

 

That would qualify as an extreme condition.

 

Down here in the states where we hate switching tires, chains have their place. Especially where there are usually mild winters, but you'll get some nasty snow and ice storms occasionally (relatively speaking).

Some places out west they are required in some conditions, typically in mountainous regions.