Socket Stuck in Spark Plug Tube

Two types of people will post now.

1. "Never use anti seize. Toyota engineers don't recommend it" (I use it and it's fine)
2. "I use Iridium plugs and they last 250,000 miles so I don't have this issue." (I use copper every 30k and yet again, it's fine.)

 

Oh yea? Well I use anti seize on my Iridium plugs so I don’t have this issue.

 

Oh yeah? Well I switch over to pickles instead of spark plugs and my 2.7 is now faster than a snail.

While it's going downhill... Then again that's not saying much.

 

never use antiseize

 

Oh Dude. Dude

 

I changed my plugs with 115 thousand on them, original because one bank was ngk other was denso, came out pretty easily, I was surprised, and they didn't look bad at all, I put anti-seize on the new set, just in case

 

Make it 3, or maybe 2.5:

3. "Use anti seize, but sparingly."

Seriously...too much will gunk up the threads. You just need enough to lightly coat them, and no more.

 

Does any company use some sort of antisieze from the factory? Probably costs too much being 5 cents per car.

 

That’s what the 6mm bolt on the coil pack is for.

 

I know, I know, you’re being sarcastic.
But the guy you quoted, lol, I’m waiting to see his response.

Gotta love Jimmy, this place wouldn’t be half as fun with out him.

 

I use this stuff on the Cessna and intend to use it on the Tacoma. It’s liquid and doesn’t gunk the threads. I have to pull and clean the plugs on the cessna every 50 hours of flying.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/ATS2612.php?clickkey=357914

 

First time I did plugs on another vehicle (LS1 F-body), it was like they were tightened by the hand of God himself. Not a dab of anti-seize anywhere to be found.

 

Was this done on a cold engine?

 

I'm sure that will hold that bugger in.

I know I'm a picky old bastid.
LOL

I was just wondering why there was no mention of the screwed up threads in the head and what if anything they did to correct that. If the bottom threads of the plug looked like that they had to be chewing the head threads coming out. If he didn't cleanup the threads before installing a new plug, the next spark plug change is going to be fun too.

Maybe it will turn into a Ford truck engine and just blow the spark plug out!


I have never seen where an impact hammer ( impact wrench ) was needed to remove a spark plug.

I really enjoyed the part where the "mechanic" (ex Toyota mechanic 20+ years) said he would need a new engine. WTF?

 

Change your plugs at the spec's intervals folks. That's how you avoid this crap. I have never used anti seize on any vehicle I have ever done plugs to in my professional career and not one of them has returned during their change out interval with seized plugs.

If you take care of your stuff it will take care of you.

 

@Jimmyh

Yeah, Those Fords were confused for a while.
They either break of in the head, or blow them out.
They finally got that taken care of, thankfully.

I honestly thought of you on the “new engine” part.
Since we all know you how you like to engine swap these trucks.
Should be easy enough to swap in the 2.7, that way you can take the plugs all the way to 100k?
Right?

 

@TnShooter

I know right! LOL.
I would go into more details BUT: ** Mir wurde verboten, über einen Motorentausch zu sprechen.

** (I have been Forbidden to discuss an engine swap.)

I'll just get myself in trouble.


I do find it hard to believe a 20+ Year Toyota Mechanic would suggest an engine swap for a stripped spark plug. Kind of like buying a new truck because it has a flat tire.

 

Just make sure you use the "Blue" antiseize and not the "Red."

 

Oh, you though THAT would rustle his jimmies?

 

What is with all the rubbing on the outside of the socket? Was that there before you used it to remove that plug? I have a different theory. There where debris in the spark plug tube that was causing the socket to be to tight in the tube and sieze up. As the plug got further out of the head the pressue caused the plug to tilt and the last few threads show the damage.