soft brake pedal

Well it would seem my brake woes continue. Got my rotors resurfaced, rebuilt brake calipers, replaced necessary brake lines, installed new pads, bled brakes, did the break in procedure.

Brakes are way too soft and go practically to the floor. I thought it might be because the passenger rear brake bleeder seemed a little obstructed when I did the initial bleed so I went back and removed the bleeder screw and made sure it was completely free of rust and debris and then rebled the lines on that wheel.

Brake pedal goes almost to floor and doesn't stop truck well. Original reason to get into the brakes was I had a flexible brake line rubbing the frame and wore through the hose. I don't think my reservoir got low enough to get air to the ABS but am not 100% certain.

I ran close to 2 quarts of brake fluid through the system when I was bleeding all the lines.
You guys think I could still have some air in there?

I'm scratching my head on this one...

 

Im dealing with a similar problem and I found that after the ABS engages the pedal feels firm and good, and the engagement travel is higher on the pedal then disappears. (Shrug)

Have you tried slamming the breaks on a gravel road (or similar) to engage the ABS?

Or tired adjusting the set screw in the driver foot well for the break pedal?

It can also be a sign that the Master Cyl is failing and / or the ABS pump has a stuck open solenoid.

 

Couple possibilities:

Could be air in the ABS system

Have you properly adjusted your rear brakes? Worn shoes and/or misadjustment could leave excessive travel, causing the pedal to sink lower before the shoes make contact and actually pressurize the system. Same goes for front brake wear but seems like you already took care of that.

Any old rubber lines in the system? Could be getting stretchy due to age, again causing soft pedal feel.

 

Brakes were working perfectly before the flexible line failure. Replaced both flexible lines when I rebuilt the brakes. Didn't do anything to the rear brakes other than bleed the lines. In fact I had no issues with the brakes prior to rebuilding the fronts so I am a little reluctant to consider the rear brake adjustment could be the cause of the issues I am having since I did nothing to them. /With the new front brake pads, I would postulate the pedal should be firmer after the rebuild with the additional pad thickness but that could be faulty thinking. I have tried slamming the brakes and they do not lock up.

Hoping this isn't indicative of air in my ABS. That one I have had lower on my list of considerations as I did still have brake fluid in my master cylinder and it wasn't empty once I found the problem of the bake failure to be a worn flexible brake line. there was still fluid in both chambers even though it was definitely low in the rear chamber of the master cylinder.

I am thinking that I will run some more brake fluid through and bleed the entire system again before I take it somewhere and spend $300-$400 to have someone else figure it out. Crossing my fingers on the ABS since if what I have read is correct that has to be done at the dealer and unfortunately, that is close to a 3 hour roundtrip drive from where I live.

I am using the brake bleeder from Harbor Freight to purge the system. First time using that so it could be I am overlooking something or doing something wrong.

 

Same.. What is so different about the Tacoma brake system that simply bleeding doesn't work and any brake work performed results in soft pedal. I''ve been through the same as you with a vacuum bleeder/manual bleed/gravity also. Nothing seems to help and I don't believe the the mater cylinder/booster because it starts when servicing the brakes.. I have 2 tacos, both the same and give up/get used to crappy pedal fee.

 

am I correct in observing you posted using a vacuum tool

because that would mean you didn’t pressure bleed like you’re supposed to.

bedding pads after break in also helps.

 

I did use a vacuum tool to bleed brakes. I have never heard this is a problem?
I did perform a normal brake in procedure on the brakes once installed.

 

After doing the brakes myself, I went to a local shop for a flush. They have the "special tool" to do the ABS bleed. The cost was about $ 100 which included the flush and bleed. Fairly short money in my opinion and no need to buy any one-time use tools as the brakes had 90k on them and I suspect it will be a while before I need to do it again.

 

Does the pedal stiffen up after 1 or 2 presses or is it always spongy?

 

I have a Motive pressure bleeder. It was around 60 bucks. Lost track of how many times I used it.
-rebuild calipers
-installed CM HydroTOB
-flush once every year or two
-added SS lines
-might use it again even more if I service the rear drums

probably the cheapest way to get it done.

 

pedal is spongy even after pumping pedal.

 

I have a motive pressure bleeder as well, I haven’t used it yet but I plan on flushing the brake fluid, as fluid needs it. How much brake fluid did you go through? Thanks

 

It took me going around the truck 3 times before i finally got a strong pedal feel. Only benefit is a full flush was done, and then some.

Had the best luck with bleeding, then go out and stomp on the pedal to get the abs to engage and then bleed again.
That was my experience anyway

 

if I’m doing everything I try to use two normal sized bottles
That’s without any other issues that require more fluid like getting stubborn air out that can take more or multiple attempts

 

The brakes on my 06 had/have been driving me bonkers for years. Finally one day the master cylinder failed completely. Wife had been driving it that day to work, she got home to tell
me something was up with brakes. I took it right over to the Toyota Dealer, the brakes totally crapped out in the service drive....lucky day...